Tavor barrel removal...how??

bladerogers

bladerogers

CGN Regular
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South Saskatchewan
OK, scared I'm going to break something so after searching google and CGN this process lacks some details, and that might be because there is nothing to detail. I flip up the locking mechanism so that the metal tab clears the stock on the left side and then attempt to turn the barrel locking lug but I don't want to apply to much torque for fear of breaking something. How much torque is required to rotate that lug? is there anything else I am missing? Anyone in the know provide some more detail please? Also, what thread is the flash suppressor on the tavor, 1/32 or 1/28? Thanks!
 
Fully Lift up the locking tab and at the same time turn barrel lock 180 degrees, once started the locking tab will ride along the edge and does not need to be held. It is a bit hard to turn at first, just turn in the direction of arrow

Barrel is 1/28
 
You have to remove the cocking rod that's attached to the charging handle prior to turning the barrel lock. Otherwise you'll be spending 35 bucks with Canada Ammo.
 
Completly strip the rifle of all removable parts, including the cocking handle and forward top cover that the cocking handle is attached to.

With a punch, press in on the little locking tab so it lifts up and clears the stock. With a barrel wrench (not a screwdriver or other hack job tool) turn the barrel locking cam the direction of the arrow. It will be difficult at first, as it hold a barrel in.

As mentioned, once started, you no longer need to hold the locking tab in. It will ride along the stock. It is a simple task to perform with the proper tools and basic common sense (which isn't that common).

I highly recommend you download and print off the Tavor Armorer's Manual. It's around here somewhere.
 
I have the armourers manual of course. It is that manual that doesn't seem to go into detail. yes, common sense armedsask BUT the last thing I need is to snap some piece off a $3500 rifle that I can't see on account of me having only common sense and no xray vision :p. I'll have to fabricate a tool from an Allen wrench now that I know I was doing this correctly. that initial torque felt like I might end up stripping a hex wrench. My problem is that the tool I was using was not sufficient. Thanks all!
 
Most important thing to remember is that the cocking rod is removed. It is the only part that can be damaged by the barrel locking pin. Torque required is approx 20ft/lbs. on most new guns.
 
I don't think you really have to remove the cocking handle, just release it so that it is not 'locked' at the most forward position. Dlask have a tool for barrel removal, basically a modified socket head screw machined/ grinded to the size of the barrel lock head.
 
Not the cocking handle, you have to remove the cocking rod. It rests inside the barrel lock pin, so is damaged if left in place.

The rod and handle come out with the upper hand guard during stripping in prep for removing the barrel.
 
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