Shot the Tavor for the first time today and just as I thought shot flawless... So happy with the purchase!!! So went home to clean the gun and noticed when I grabbed the big brush it has a 1inch extension of metal that could possibly scratch the inside of my gun... Has anyone cut that off or are you supposed to put a patch on it??? Also what's all your opinion on armor all on the exterior?
Tavor Cleaning kit
- Thread starter Czarface
- Start date
The "Internal Receiver Cleaning Brush"? I cut off the end of mine. In the manual, the photo of one doesn't have that extension, so I made the call on mine.
I cleaned my Tavor every time after I shot it, for the first couple of times. Now I run a snake through it before I shoot, and make sure the bolt, carrier, and receiver contact areas are still nicely lubed (these areas became evident once I had some rounds through it, as the contact surfaces polished up). It looks like I will only need to detail clean it after every 500 rounds+, as it just doesn't get very dirty. I'm shooting bulk pack AE223 for plinking, and heavy for caliber handloads (taking advantage of the 7 twist), loaded with TAC. Ymmv.
Armor All makes things slippery. I wouldn't want my rifle slippery. A friend of mine Armor All'd his kid's plastic slide. The kid flew 3 feet after leaving the end of the slide, before hitting the ground. It took a lot of work to remove the Armor All from the slide.
Eta: This Product might be more appropriate? Its sold here.
I cleaned my Tavor every time after I shot it, for the first couple of times. Now I run a snake through it before I shoot, and make sure the bolt, carrier, and receiver contact areas are still nicely lubed (these areas became evident once I had some rounds through it, as the contact surfaces polished up). It looks like I will only need to detail clean it after every 500 rounds+, as it just doesn't get very dirty. I'm shooting bulk pack AE223 for plinking, and heavy for caliber handloads (taking advantage of the 7 twist), loaded with TAC. Ymmv.
Armor All makes things slippery. I wouldn't want my rifle slippery. A friend of mine Armor All'd his kid's plastic slide. The kid flew 3 feet after leaving the end of the slide, before hitting the ground. It took a lot of work to remove the Armor All from the slide.
Eta: This Product might be more appropriate? Its sold here.
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Leviathan024
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- GP Alberta
The large brush is for cleaning the the tube where the piston goes in. My brush fell apart after a few times of using it so now I just dissasemble my tavor around 500 rounds and FULLY clean it. Buy the barrel wrench!
I also completely disassemble mine to effectively detail clean it. I made a wrench out of a 5/16" bolt. I cut the threads off, and profiled the shank to fit.
I find the big brush useless for cleaning the tube. The only tools I find useful out of the cleaning kit is the front sight post adjustment tool, and the chamber brush. The chamber brush is also the right size to clean the gas cylinder on the barrel. And I'm not letting that steel cleaning rod anywhere near the bore.
Immediately after purchasing the rifle I did an initial disassembly, and found one of the clamps that mounts the top rail to the barrel was loose! Maybe that's why the original owner had it up for sale after 50 claimed rounds; an inherently inaccurate rifle? I used red loctite on both clamps (xcr style haha). If I hadn't done the tear down, I would not have caught it so early.
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KG-1 and a toothbrush took care of the carbon in the gas system; I was impressed. I bought it after having success with another KG product on my other rifles: KG-12 copper solvent. I won't buy the KG-4 gun oil again; I think "hi-tech" gun oil is a rip-off for what it is. A firearm will become too dirty to function even before "lo-tech" oil will break down, thus will be cleaned and re-lubed long before then.
I also use Hoppes 9 for general wiping and cleaning. I like that Hoppes contains kerosene, leaving an oily residue on metal after the volatiles flash off.
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