Tavor help, I think I damaged it up badly.

cerebral_bore

cerebral_bore

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I went to disassemble the barrel and didn't remove the cocking group first.

Torqued my wrench hard, encountered some resistance but just figured it was a tight fit.

Turned it all the way to the Open position and tried to take the cocking group off before the barrel, and the Op Rod won't come out. It seems like it's locked stiff.

Now I've read trying to remove the barrel can damage the Op Rod.

Anyone know how I should proceed in this situation? I'm pretty upset and should have been more careful. I've disassembled the barrel before with no problems a while ago and thought I could do it again from memory and clearly I missed a major step.
 
Hey, welcome to the club :) http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...n-the-award-of-the-most-retarded-idiot-on-CGN

Will cost you 117$ for the parts if you damaged the gas cylinder.


0070475299 - IWI TAVOR FLAT TOP GAS CYLINDER - $62.40ea

007040011 - IWI TAVOR BAR COCKING - $11.25ea

007040002 - IWI TAVOR PIN, GENERAL - $0.90ea

NS charges 25$ for shipping

Email North Sylva for the parts. ( jon@north sylva. Com ) I ordered 2 rods just to have a spare and the retaining pin.
 
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Thanks DILL.

At this point Im not sure what to do because the cocking group wont come out (op rod seems stuck or maybe just bent very badly) and the barrel lock won't turn back to "Lock"/"L", serious resistance is encountered.
 
cerebral_bore said:
Thanks DILL.

At this point Im not sure what to do because the cocking group wont come out (op rod seems stuck or maybe just bent very badly) and the barrel lock won't turn back to "Lock"/"L", serious resistance is encountered.
Click to expand...

You will need the Lock back to L if you ever want the cocking bar to come out. Right now that cocking bar is pushing on the gas cylinder. And the 2 plastick tabs of the cylinder are probably broken
 
DILLIGAF said:
You will need the Lock back to L if you ever want the cocking bar to come out. Right now that cocking bar is pushing on the gas cylinder. And the 2 plastick tabs of the cylinder are probably broken
Click to expand...

Did you just use force or did you have to take the rifle down further? It feels like the barrel lock is impossible to turn back to L at this point. I'm using the Tav-Tool barrel wrench.
 
I heard all sorts of noises when I forced it back, I have the big Allen key armours tool . So it has a bit more leverage.

I hope your bolt is out as well. So you don't damage the piston.
 
Ouch! Sorry to hear you pulled a DILLI! I have been warned about this from a lot of guys on here haha.. I guess you didn't get the memo.

On the bright side though, it's only $117 to fix...considering the price of the gun and all..
Also, I think there's an upgraded "Manticore Switchback" charging handle you can get if you can find it anywhere. Looks better than the original CH from what I remember. Not sure on how it functions.

Good luck!
 
DILLIGAF said:
I heard all sorts of noises when I forced it back, I have the big Allen key armours tool . So it has a bit more leverage.

I hope your bolt is out as well. So you don't damage the piston.
Click to expand...

Update: I had another go at turning the barrel lock back. Situated the rifle upside down on a table and was able to get a lot more leverage and some resistance to stop the rifle turning as I torqued the barrel wrench. I should really get a quality gun vice. Suprisingly it didn't make any strange noises turning it back to "L".

After the barrel lock was back in "L" I was able to pull the cocking group out entirely, bent Op Rod and all.

Then turned the lock back to "O" and pulled the barrel out no problem.

I pulled out the gas tube and sure enough the plastic slat was broken, and the entire unit is bent/warped such that the flat top rail no longer mounts flush. Needs replacement.

The Op Rod/Charging Rod is bent but looks like it could be used in a pinch if you flattened it out. Needs replacement.

In your parts list, what was the 3rd item, the pin, for? Not sure if I saw a pin anywhere along the line that would need replacement.

Thanks, you definitely helped me through this.
 
The pin that holds the cocking handle to the cocking bar. I figured I rather be safe and get a spare in case I lost it taking the assembly apart.
 
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