The AKM-style muzzle break for CZ

ghostie

ghostie

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I've had a CZ858 4V (the restricted one) for about a month now. Love this rifle. I was pleasantly surprised with the accuracy. No real problem beaning (stationary) orange clays out to about 100 yards with the irons.

I bought the AKM-style break from Dlask - for the same reason everyone does.. it looks cool. The recoil, muzzle climb, etc. with the 7.62 x 39 is so mild (my gf disagrees with this, but...) I don't think any kind of break is going to be necessary.

However... with the break on there... accuracy goes out the window!! :mad: If I have the opening of the break facing up, point of impact is about 6 inches higher than normal at 50 yards. If I turn the break to the 11 o'clock position, looking at at it from the muzzle side, (as suggested by a couple of people, and I've seen this in photos too) I was getting the same 6 inches high, but in the corresponding 1 or 2 o'clock area vis-a-vis the desired point of aim.

What a POS. I took it off after 20 rounds of trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. I put the stock thread protector back on and immediately went back to beaning things dead on at 25, 50, 75 and 100 yards (with the sights set at 100).

I like Joe Dlask. I've done a lot of business with him over the years and I know he and the guys he works with make good stuff and take pride in what they do.

Am I missing something here? Was the product never tested? I don't see how I can install it incorrectly. The only issue is how it is turned. I'll talk to Joe about it, but I just wanted to see what other people's experiences have been with these. If it just looked cool and did nothing, I could live with that, but totally annihilating the accuracy of the rifle? huh?? That's not gonna work.
 
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Yep. There all like that. I have tried them all except the new one that Wolverine made. So far the best one on the market is this one;
VZ58111-450px.jpg

Here's a pic of all the ones I still owned that are worth a try;
29-11-08_1458.jpg
 
Why not just zero your rifle with the comp installed?

Are you saying the "accuracy" is being "anhilalated" when you really mean it's not shooting to the (original) point of aim with it installed?
 
Stevo said:
Why not just zero your rifle with the comp installed?

Are you saying the "accuracy" is being "anhilalated" when you really mean it's not shooting to the (original) point of aim with it installed?
Click to expand...

I thought about that, but decided to just take it off - at least for now. Has anyone on CGN been able to zero the rifle reliably with the AKM brake installed?

My experience with the brake was: trying to hit a clay at 25 yards, unable to do so :( I could see that the rounds were hitting high so I try aiming lower, still not hitting it. I try and get the rounds printing on a piece of paper at 50 yards. Aiming for a circle at the centre of a (vertically oritented) 8 and 1/2 by 11 piece of paper I am just barely hitting the top edge of the paper - so about 5 and 1/2 to 6 inches off point of aim. One of the experienced shooters at my range (whose opinion I listen to) suggests turning it one "click" over - as mentioned above. This results in the shots printing about the same 6 inches from the centre of page, but now they are in the 1 to 2 o'clock position - so I'm thinking, "O.K., at least there is some rhyme or reason to this".

I wanted to determine whether it was the break, or was I just shooting incredibly bad today, or was it some other problem. So I take the break off, and the gun is hitting right on the money at 25, 50 and 75 - just by taking the break off, so I figure "Screw it. I don't need the headache of trying to make this thing work." My main concern is that, there is only so much adjustment in the front sight post, it is sighted in beautifully out of the factory, and, my testing (limited as it was) would suggest that it would be off a full foot at 100 yards - and am I going to be able to correct that back just with adjustment of the front post? Correct back 2 feet at 200 yards?

I just took it off and enjoyed the rifle in it's factory configuration the rest of the afternoon.

Another thing.... what would be the "theory" (or physics) behind why the point of impact is being so radically changed by a brake of this type? The bullet is pulled "up" (toward the opening) somehow? Weird.
 
Ghostie, I have to agree with Stevo. When your rounds were hitting 5.5-6" off the POA, what was the grouping like when compared to before?
When I switched my last AR from the birdcage FH to a Vortex it shifted the point of impact as well. It didn't mean the Vortex was crap as the grouping was still the same.
 
Ghostie,
A couple points:
1) It's not a brake, it's a compensator. It's designed to push the muzzle down and to the side, not reduce recoil.

2) You're hanging an asymmetric device on your muzzle. It makes perfect sense that the POI will change. Gas will flow around the bullet in a different pattern than before as it exits the muzzle.

Don't hold off big amounts, just re-zero your rifle. There's more than enough adjustment in the front sight to take care of it. Use RobAK's experience to guide you.

Either that or just throw it away so it doesn't frustrate you so much.
 
Duh !

ghostie said:
I've had a CZ858 4V (the restricted one) for about a month now. Love this rifle. I was pleasantly surprised with the accuracy. No real problem beaning (stationary) orange clays out to about 100 yards with the irons.

I bought the AKM-style break from Dlask - for the same reason everyone does.. it looks cool. The recoil, muzzle climb, etc. with the 7.62 x 39 is so mild (my gf disagrees with this, but...) I don't think any kind of break is going to be necessary.

However... with the break on there... accuracy goes out the window!! :mad: If I have the opening of the break facing up, point of impact is about 6 inches higher than normal at 50 yards. If I turn the break to the 11 o'clock position, looking at at it from the muzzle side, (as suggested by a couple of people, and I've seen this in photos too) I was getting the same 6 inches high, but in the corresponding 1 or 2 o'clock area vis-a-vis the desired point of aim.

What a POS. I took it off after 20 rounds of trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. I put the stock thread protector back on and immediately went back to beaning things dead on at 25, 50, 75 and 100 yards (with the sights set at 100).

I like Joe Dlask. I've done a lot of business with him over the years and I know he and the guys he works with make good stuff and take pride in what they do.

Am I missing something here? Was the product never tested? I don't see how I can install it incorrectly. The only issue is how it is turned. I'll talk to Joe about it, but I just wanted to see what other people's experiences have been with these. If it just looked cool and did nothing, I could live with that, but totally annihilating the accuracy of the rifle? huh?? That's not gonna work.
Click to expand...

Brakes make the bullet MORE accurate - simple physics - When you lessen the destabilizing gas at the base of the bullet at exit from the crown that causes yaw etc., when it leaves the barrel , you lessen the skew - and you have a more accurate trajectory.
Try tight locking to the barrel threads and re zero - below is with a teflon taped brake-- consistent --many times - sometimes 1/2 and a few times 1/4
Picture037.jpg
 
Same thing

Stevo said:
He's not using a brake, chopper. He's using the slant AKM-style comp.
Click to expand...

Only throwing the bullet up -- consistantly - but since the gas is not as lessened with a brake - less effect - less accuracy but same consistence - just higher ----- different POI is all --
 
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