The Swedish Mauser

Bodogh

Bodogh

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Hello everyone,

This thread is in regards to myself looking for insight on Swedish mauser variants and I hope this thread can help others too.

I'm in the market and I don't know where to start when it comes to the variants, what to look for at shows when handling, how to collect and what to be cautious of/avoid.

I have done some research myself but asking for opinions always seems to help. Thanks for reading I apologise in advance if this thread isn't done properly.
 
I've had several over the years. Still have a couple M38's. One of the nicest shooting accurate military rifles you could wish for. Downside is factory ammo is available but not in every gun shop. Not going to be inexpensive either when you do find some. I've shot thousands of rounds of 6.5x55 over the last 40yrs. Everyone a reload. These rifles are still a bargain in my opinion.
 
Fabulous rifles. Lots to know, but in short.....start with an M96. They are all virtually identical and similiar in value. Depending on condition of course. Unfortunately not as readily available as they were just 3 years ago.
 
Here is the swedish line up and what you need to look for
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The top rifle is a swedish m38 made by Husqvarna in 1942,the secound from the top is a m38/96 rifle which is a cut down version of the m96 to m38 length and maintains the m96 straight bolt handel.
The third rifle down is a swedish semi auto ag42 .
At the bottom is the model 96
 
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Most likely modified for target shooting as evidenced by the rear target sight.

To the OP here is my rough list of the variants.

The M94 Carbine (very desired and fairly rare to find unaltered). The M94/14 Carbine which was the same carbine with a nose cap similar to a Lee Enfield added so the carbine could accept bayonets. Both value wise are roughly in the 1000-1500$ range. Things to look for are matching numbers on the parts, unaltered sights (such as the rear 'V' notch being filed into a 'U'), no barrel extension (a US thing to get around the short barreled rifle requirements), and a not redone stock or parts.

The M96 Infantry rifle has several subvariations but the big things to look for are manufacturer (Mauser or Carl Gustaf), matching parts, not refinished parts (such as varnished stocks), a unthreaded muzzle is a plus, any made in the 1930s and later are rare and small quantity, bore condition, etc. Another thing to be cautious of with all these is just because the disk stock has a good bore rating doesn't mean it actually has a good bore. Some less than ethical people in the past have taken the stock marker off a better condition rifle and placed it on a lesser bore condition rifle, and there has been some time since that bore was gauged so they might have been shot a bit in civilian hands. Rough value is 350-500$.

The M38 is one of the more popular variants due to its size. Can have a straight or bent bolt from the factory, and many were made up from older M96 rifles (sometimes called 96/38s by collectors). Same things to look for as the rifles above. Value tends to be in the 350-600$ range.

That should be a good rough start, there is obviously things like snipers and such but I don't really know much about those. Hopefully someone who knows more can add information. Personally I have always had bad luck with Swedish rifles from a out of battery detonation with a AG-42b, to a M1907 disconnector wearing out, hopefully it goes well to you!
 
This particular rifle belonged to a gunsmith it was his moose hunting rifle.it had the bent handle when I got it.I'm thinking he may have did this but we well never know as he is no longer with us and yes you are correct they should have a straight bolt handle.the m38 made by Husqvarna and and the m41 sniper were were equipped with a bent bolt
 
Forget about the 94 carbines. They are way over-priced, too heavy and awkward for carbines.
Also, they do not have the reputation for accuracy that the 96 and 38 have...

You want a 96 or 38 with:

- all matching numbers (ideally including the stock set, but definitely all the metal parts.)
note: later Husqvarna production parts (slanted crown) are not marked with serial numbers.

- a walnut stock rather than a beech stock. Some of the early walnut is spectacular and even the best beech is only tolerable. Also, no cracks.
Although a hairline at the tang has almost come to be expected and accepted in Swedish rifle stocks, both sporting and military, it is still best to have no (other) cracks.

- an early date (No matter what the Husqvarna fans will tell you, the quality of the machining does decline over the period of production, tool marks do increase, etc. Also, the beech stocks on the later Husqvarna M-38s are bulky and can stand very proud of the metal.)

- a high quality steel no-gunsmithing scope mount (I recommend: https://www.accumounts.com/swedish-mauser.html) and an LER scout-type scope. You will be wasting the 6.5x55 potential for accuracy without a scope.

- no drilling and tapping of any kind (unless its an FSR target rifle with diopter sights)

Also, buy or borrow the reference books: Crown Jewels by Dana Jones and The Swedish Mauser Rifles by Kehaya/Powers.
It is ideal to have both because although the Jones book is a much higher quality book, both have errors and neither one is comprehensive.

Learn to read the stock disc in comparison with an actual bore. Look down as many barrels as you can. After a bit of experience you won't be fooled by a switched stock disc.

...and go here: http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?49-Swedish-Military-Firearms-Forum
 
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Another variant that has not been mentioned is the CG-63s.
These rifles were post war target rifles that typically saw M96 and M38 actions repurposed with most often new target barrels and stocks including target diopter sights. Chambered in 6.5x55 and some can be found in 7.62 NATO.

Check out Trade Ex for more
 
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