I spend a fair amount of time (way too much according to my wife), enjoying all the historical and practical knowledge shared in this particular forum of CGN. Thought I might take some time and contribute something from an area that I have a keen interest in ....
The US CARBINE CAL .30 M1
I am very much interested in all firearms used by the Allies during WWII, but the US M1 Carbine is one that I particularly enjoy.
During my time collecting, shooting and cleaning them, for obvious reasons it has become beneficial to be comfortable with disassembling and assembling these rifles.
Thought I might share some of the things I have learned while working with them.
So to get started ....
US M1 CARBINE disassembly/assembly
-As with all firearms, first priority, confirm there are no rounds chambered.
And remove the magazine.
-Loosen up the recoil plate screw. Does not need to be backed all the way out. Having the screw head exposed an 1/8" usually works fine.
-Loosen the barrel band screw as well. It helps to have this one backed off enough to feel slack in the band against the stock.
-If the barrel band is loose enough, you should be able to depress the barrel band spring with one hand and slide the barrel band forward with the other hand at the same time.
-Now the handguard will come free. And you should also be able to lift the entire action from the stock. Sometimes the locking tang at the back of the receiver likes to hang onto the recoil plate. Do not pull hard upwards on the barrel if this happens, or you could crack the stock. Usually pulling the action forward as you lift the barrel will help. If not, loosen the recoil plate screw a little more.
-Next remove the trigger housing retaining pin. Put in properly, it should go in from the right side.
-Once the pin is removed, slide the trigger housing assembly backward and down, and set aside for now.
-Now remove the operating slide spring by pinching the slide spring guide, depressing the spring and pulling it out of the detent and to the right side.
-Removing the slide can be one of the more finicky items to remove, depending on the rifle.
I have had some that simply drop out with ease and others that are more challenging.
First of all, pull the slide back to the operating slide dismounting cut and pull it away from the receiver.
-Next move the slide forward to the cut out in the slide rails of the gas block.
-And then with a slight downward tilt to the left, the slide should come free.
-To remove the bolt, place the bolt in roughly the position shown in the first picture and then pull forward, upward and twist to the right.
-So at this point, here is what you should have ....
-To disassemble the trigger housing assembly, first make sure the tension is released from the hammer spring by pulling the trigger.
*note: The operating slide spring guide can be used in any place where you might use an awl or punch tool, while stripping the housing down.
-Hold the trigger housing in one hand, then using a punch or awl, place through the eye of the hammer spring plunger.
-There is significant tension in the spring, so be careful not to have it directed towards yourself or anyone when removing it, in case it gets away on you.
-Now remove the hammer pin.
-And then the trigger/sear pin as well.
-As you pull the sear away, be careful you do not lose the sear spring.
-To remove the trigger and trigger spring, push the trigger up out of the housing and then the spring will be left and can be removed easily.
-For removing the magazine catch, use a small slotted screwdriver to depress the plunger assembly (magazine catch/safety).
-Once the magazine catch is free, remove the magazine catch spring and plunger, and then the plunger assembly (magazine catch/safety)
-The safety will also come free now as well.
-You should have a group of parts that look something like this ....
So with everything pretty well completely stripped down, it's a great time to clean and lubricate all those parts.
In the basic field manual issued by the US War Department in 1942,
it states that a light film of lubricating oil should be applied to all metal surfaces, and raw linseed oil for maintaining the stock and hand guard. Application of lubricating oil to the following parts prior to firing is recommended:
-Bolt lugs (operating and locking)
-Bolt guides
-Cocking cam on bolt
-Piston
-Contact surfaces of barrel and operating slide
-Operating slide cam
-Operating slide groove in receiver and barrel
-Operating slide spring
-Operating slide spring guide rod
*A cautionary note says not to oil under the surface of bolt, as introduction of oil into the chamber may lead to the generation of excessive pressure.
It has been suggested by many, that M1 carbines should have the operating surfaces greased as done on an M1 Garand. It certainly would not hurt the carbine to do this and would reduce wear in certain locations, but it is not necessary for the carbine to function properly.
Now back together again ....
-The safety pops in first. Make sure the detent for the plunger is facing to the forward part of the trigger housing
-The plunger assembly (mag catch/safety) goes in next, as well as the mag catch spring.
-Then, while depressing the plunger assembly(mag catch/safety), slide the magazine catch into place and release pressure on the plunger assembly. Work the magazine catch to confirm that it is in place properly. Spring should return it to the locked position when pressed and released.
Getting the trigger spring into place without the tool specifically made to help with this, can be somewhat tricky. I have never owned a trigger spring tool, but have managed without so far ....albeit usually a bit of cursing is involved
The trigger spring needs to be pushed into the access hole in the trigger housing, with the solid looped bend of the spring facing towards the trigger. You need to drop both the trigger and spring into place simultaneously. With the end result having the solid loop of the spring sitting in the slot at the rear of the trigger.
-Once the trigger and trigger spring are properly in place, drop the sear spring into the front well of the trigger.
-Then put the sear in place with the end of the sear spring located properly in the well at the back of the sear.
-To fit the trigger/sear pin back into place, use an awl or tapered punch to line up both the holes in the sear and trigger, and then push the pin in from the opposite side.
Lining up the holes in the sear and trigger initially takes some pressure on the sear spring to bring things close to alignment. Having the trigger housing supported in a vise or something similar, allowing you to use both hands, makes this much easier.
-Now line up the hole in the hammer with the hole in the trigger housing. Pushing the hammer down with some pressure on the sear will get it aligned with the housing. And this pin is usually easily fitted in by hand. The head of the hammer pin should be on the right hand side when in place.
-With the hammer in the forward position, put the hammer spring and hammer spring plunger together. Locate the spring into the upper hole of the trigger housing, and using an awl or other similar tool to compress the spring, fit the plunger into the notch at the back of the hammer. And finally, press the hammer down into the cocked position.
-And finally, press the hammer down into the cocked position.
-The completed trigger housing is now ready to be attached to the receiver.
Seems to work well having the rear receiver lug of the trigger housing just aft of the receiver to start, then slide forward until the hole for the trigger housing retaining pin lines up with the forward receiver lug.
-Trigger housingpin goes in from right to left as well.
-The bolt needs to drop in at a certain angle. This can be done before or after the completed trigger housing assembly is in place.
-To attach the operating slide, line up the lugs on the inside of operating slide well with the grooves in the barrel, with a slight tilt towards the cut out in the groove for the slide.
-At the same time you also want to have the cut out in the slide handle to be located over the right bolt lug.
-Now at somewhat the same time, square up the slide well along the grooves in the barrel and then locate the lug of the slide handle, into the slide dismounting cut. This cut out is just forward of the rear sight, on the right hand side of the receiver.
-Once in place, advance the operating slide fully forward.
-Take the operating slide spring/guide and put spring end into slide spring well in the receiver. Then compress the spring and drop the end of the spring guide into the hole at the rear of the slide.
-So now you should be looking at something like this ....
Now is a good time to confirm that everything with the action is functioning correctly before you button it back into the stock set.
*Note: This is also the point at which you'd slide your mag pouch over the stock, if you want it on.
-As you did when removing the action, angle the action so the locking tang at the rear of the receiver is down, when dropping into position against the recoil plate.
-Hand guard goes on next.
-Barrel band slides into place until it locks onto the band spring.
-Tighten up the screws. And you're almost set for the range.
Don't forget the sling! Attaching the sling is pretty straight forward. *Note: The end of the sling with the snap loop goes through the barrel band swivel, not around the oiler bottle.
*When spare time allows, I will add instructions on how to use the bolt disassembly tool.
It is not a critical tool to have when you initially start out playing with M1 carbines, but if you ever decide to be serious about collecting them, it is a very important part for confirming parts.
There is an incredible amount of history to these little carbines. I encourage people who are looking to pick up their first one to really do some research prior to dropping the funds on one.
They seem to be coming up for grabs a lot less lately, and unfortunately when I do see one come up for sale, there tends to be inaccurate information given. That is mostly due to the owner being uninformed in regards to what exactly they have, not that they are trying to purposely be misleading. The GI carbines have a complex manufacturing history, as well as a lengthy post WWII military presence. So do your research first, and that way you can be confident when you send that, "I'll take it" message. And then when the deal is done, and you have a carbine in your hand, you'll be feeling as good as these fellas ....
One excellent resource for some of the origins and history of the M1 carbine can be found here: http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/
Along with several excellent books and online sources, there are also some incredibly knowledgeable people in the CGN community. Track them down, ask them lots of questions. They are generally happy and willing to share what they have learned.
A big thank you to both gunsdora and Manteo97, of CGN. Fine gentlemen who have been very patient with all my inquiries over the past few years!
The US CARBINE CAL .30 M1
I am very much interested in all firearms used by the Allies during WWII, but the US M1 Carbine is one that I particularly enjoy.
During my time collecting, shooting and cleaning them, for obvious reasons it has become beneficial to be comfortable with disassembling and assembling these rifles.
Thought I might share some of the things I have learned while working with them.
So to get started ....
US M1 CARBINE disassembly/assembly
-As with all firearms, first priority, confirm there are no rounds chambered.
And remove the magazine.
-Loosen up the recoil plate screw. Does not need to be backed all the way out. Having the screw head exposed an 1/8" usually works fine.
-Loosen the barrel band screw as well. It helps to have this one backed off enough to feel slack in the band against the stock.
-If the barrel band is loose enough, you should be able to depress the barrel band spring with one hand and slide the barrel band forward with the other hand at the same time.
-Now the handguard will come free. And you should also be able to lift the entire action from the stock. Sometimes the locking tang at the back of the receiver likes to hang onto the recoil plate. Do not pull hard upwards on the barrel if this happens, or you could crack the stock. Usually pulling the action forward as you lift the barrel will help. If not, loosen the recoil plate screw a little more.
-Next remove the trigger housing retaining pin. Put in properly, it should go in from the right side.
-Once the pin is removed, slide the trigger housing assembly backward and down, and set aside for now.
-Now remove the operating slide spring by pinching the slide spring guide, depressing the spring and pulling it out of the detent and to the right side.
-Removing the slide can be one of the more finicky items to remove, depending on the rifle.
I have had some that simply drop out with ease and others that are more challenging.
First of all, pull the slide back to the operating slide dismounting cut and pull it away from the receiver.
-Next move the slide forward to the cut out in the slide rails of the gas block.
-And then with a slight downward tilt to the left, the slide should come free.
-To remove the bolt, place the bolt in roughly the position shown in the first picture and then pull forward, upward and twist to the right.
-So at this point, here is what you should have ....
-To disassemble the trigger housing assembly, first make sure the tension is released from the hammer spring by pulling the trigger.
*note: The operating slide spring guide can be used in any place where you might use an awl or punch tool, while stripping the housing down.
-Hold the trigger housing in one hand, then using a punch or awl, place through the eye of the hammer spring plunger.
-There is significant tension in the spring, so be careful not to have it directed towards yourself or anyone when removing it, in case it gets away on you.
-Now remove the hammer pin.
-And then the trigger/sear pin as well.
-As you pull the sear away, be careful you do not lose the sear spring.
-To remove the trigger and trigger spring, push the trigger up out of the housing and then the spring will be left and can be removed easily.
-For removing the magazine catch, use a small slotted screwdriver to depress the plunger assembly (magazine catch/safety).
-Once the magazine catch is free, remove the magazine catch spring and plunger, and then the plunger assembly (magazine catch/safety)
-The safety will also come free now as well.
-You should have a group of parts that look something like this ....
So with everything pretty well completely stripped down, it's a great time to clean and lubricate all those parts.
In the basic field manual issued by the US War Department in 1942,
it states that a light film of lubricating oil should be applied to all metal surfaces, and raw linseed oil for maintaining the stock and hand guard. Application of lubricating oil to the following parts prior to firing is recommended:
-Bolt lugs (operating and locking)
-Bolt guides
-Cocking cam on bolt
-Piston
-Contact surfaces of barrel and operating slide
-Operating slide cam
-Operating slide groove in receiver and barrel
-Operating slide spring
-Operating slide spring guide rod
*A cautionary note says not to oil under the surface of bolt, as introduction of oil into the chamber may lead to the generation of excessive pressure.
It has been suggested by many, that M1 carbines should have the operating surfaces greased as done on an M1 Garand. It certainly would not hurt the carbine to do this and would reduce wear in certain locations, but it is not necessary for the carbine to function properly.
Now back together again ....
-The safety pops in first. Make sure the detent for the plunger is facing to the forward part of the trigger housing
-The plunger assembly (mag catch/safety) goes in next, as well as the mag catch spring.
-Then, while depressing the plunger assembly(mag catch/safety), slide the magazine catch into place and release pressure on the plunger assembly. Work the magazine catch to confirm that it is in place properly. Spring should return it to the locked position when pressed and released.
Getting the trigger spring into place without the tool specifically made to help with this, can be somewhat tricky. I have never owned a trigger spring tool, but have managed without so far ....albeit usually a bit of cursing is involved
The trigger spring needs to be pushed into the access hole in the trigger housing, with the solid looped bend of the spring facing towards the trigger. You need to drop both the trigger and spring into place simultaneously. With the end result having the solid loop of the spring sitting in the slot at the rear of the trigger.
-Once the trigger and trigger spring are properly in place, drop the sear spring into the front well of the trigger.
-Then put the sear in place with the end of the sear spring located properly in the well at the back of the sear.
-To fit the trigger/sear pin back into place, use an awl or tapered punch to line up both the holes in the sear and trigger, and then push the pin in from the opposite side.
Lining up the holes in the sear and trigger initially takes some pressure on the sear spring to bring things close to alignment. Having the trigger housing supported in a vise or something similar, allowing you to use both hands, makes this much easier.
-Now line up the hole in the hammer with the hole in the trigger housing. Pushing the hammer down with some pressure on the sear will get it aligned with the housing. And this pin is usually easily fitted in by hand. The head of the hammer pin should be on the right hand side when in place.
-With the hammer in the forward position, put the hammer spring and hammer spring plunger together. Locate the spring into the upper hole of the trigger housing, and using an awl or other similar tool to compress the spring, fit the plunger into the notch at the back of the hammer. And finally, press the hammer down into the cocked position.
-And finally, press the hammer down into the cocked position.
-The completed trigger housing is now ready to be attached to the receiver.
Seems to work well having the rear receiver lug of the trigger housing just aft of the receiver to start, then slide forward until the hole for the trigger housing retaining pin lines up with the forward receiver lug.
-Trigger housingpin goes in from right to left as well.
-The bolt needs to drop in at a certain angle. This can be done before or after the completed trigger housing assembly is in place.
-To attach the operating slide, line up the lugs on the inside of operating slide well with the grooves in the barrel, with a slight tilt towards the cut out in the groove for the slide.
-At the same time you also want to have the cut out in the slide handle to be located over the right bolt lug.
-Now at somewhat the same time, square up the slide well along the grooves in the barrel and then locate the lug of the slide handle, into the slide dismounting cut. This cut out is just forward of the rear sight, on the right hand side of the receiver.
-Once in place, advance the operating slide fully forward.
-Take the operating slide spring/guide and put spring end into slide spring well in the receiver. Then compress the spring and drop the end of the spring guide into the hole at the rear of the slide.
-So now you should be looking at something like this ....
Now is a good time to confirm that everything with the action is functioning correctly before you button it back into the stock set.
*Note: This is also the point at which you'd slide your mag pouch over the stock, if you want it on.
-As you did when removing the action, angle the action so the locking tang at the rear of the receiver is down, when dropping into position against the recoil plate.
-Hand guard goes on next.
-Barrel band slides into place until it locks onto the band spring.
-Tighten up the screws. And you're almost set for the range.
Don't forget the sling! Attaching the sling is pretty straight forward. *Note: The end of the sling with the snap loop goes through the barrel band swivel, not around the oiler bottle.
*When spare time allows, I will add instructions on how to use the bolt disassembly tool.
It is not a critical tool to have when you initially start out playing with M1 carbines, but if you ever decide to be serious about collecting them, it is a very important part for confirming parts.
There is an incredible amount of history to these little carbines. I encourage people who are looking to pick up their first one to really do some research prior to dropping the funds on one.
They seem to be coming up for grabs a lot less lately, and unfortunately when I do see one come up for sale, there tends to be inaccurate information given. That is mostly due to the owner being uninformed in regards to what exactly they have, not that they are trying to purposely be misleading. The GI carbines have a complex manufacturing history, as well as a lengthy post WWII military presence. So do your research first, and that way you can be confident when you send that, "I'll take it" message. And then when the deal is done, and you have a carbine in your hand, you'll be feeling as good as these fellas ....
One excellent resource for some of the origins and history of the M1 carbine can be found here: http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/
Along with several excellent books and online sources, there are also some incredibly knowledgeable people in the CGN community. Track them down, ask them lots of questions. They are generally happy and willing to share what they have learned.
A big thank you to both gunsdora and Manteo97, of CGN. Fine gentlemen who have been very patient with all my inquiries over the past few years!
