Thinking About a Bipod for my M1A
- Thread starter THX1139
- Start date
hm well first off, unless harris now offers models for the m1a, you will need to add a swivel stud if you want a harris type of bipod.
I have a fiberglass stock and first you have to remove the swing swivel to install a swivel stud. It will require harris' adaptor #2 or #2R, depending on how you plan to reinforce the stock. I used the model #2R which I installed as far as possible from the end of the stock to have as much support as possible as the stock gets thinner by the end. I reinforced the area with epoxy. The screw provided with the adaptor was too long so I hacksawed some of it off otherwise it would get stuck in the gaz system.
In the end I wasn't satisfied with the stability so went back to sandbags, I gave the adaptor to someone here, he mgiht chime in, I can't rememebr his name
I have a fiberglass stock and first you have to remove the swing swivel to install a swivel stud. It will require harris' adaptor #2 or #2R, depending on how you plan to reinforce the stock. I used the model #2R which I installed as far as possible from the end of the stock to have as much support as possible as the stock gets thinner by the end. I reinforced the area with epoxy. The screw provided with the adaptor was too long so I hacksawed some of it off otherwise it would get stuck in the gaz system.
In the end I wasn't satisfied with the stability so went back to sandbags, I gave the adaptor to someone here, he mgiht chime in, I can't rememebr his name
I did the same as Charles. I would stay away from anything that attached to the gas cylinder or barrel.
There are online guides to modifying a GI FB stock with the Harris adaptors. Do a Google search and it will show up.
Have fun!
Some people have put the stud through the drain hole at the tip of the stock, others have moved the existing sling swivel rearward and used one of the old holes. I drilled and tapped a small plate and mounted it rearward of the existing swivel. I could be out to lunch on this, but I find my gun shoots best with it not resting out near the tip of the stock, I prefer to support it closer to the trigger group. But maybe that's just voodoo and superstition on my part.
they sure are made for it for battlefield accuracy, but if OP wants to put all the variables on his side, as grizzlypeg mentionned, the closer to the center of gravity of the gun you are rested, the better! (Well at least me and Grizzlypeg agree on that)
how about a gun rest?
the remington one sells for ±40$ in respectable hunting supplies stores
Lacking in the John Wayne factor...
Because of the design of the M14 I would mount the bipod close to the balance point just ahead of the mag well. Not so close that you interfere with the removal and insertion of mags but about 2.5-3" forward of the magwell. That will have minimal to no POI change.
What Charles, Grizz, and Sean said ...
for best theoretical accuracy, mount the bipod back from the tip.
With the M14 forend design, with a semi round barrel band acting in unison with the steel ferrule forend tip, the barrel is supposed to thrash around with each shot and hopefully come to rest in approximately the same spot. This is why "forend tensioning" and that little dab of grease at the forend tip, are so important to M14 accuracy.
Bolting the bipod to the gas assembly, or to the forend tip, can THEOMORONETICLLY interupt the harmonics, and cause inconsistencies.
Of course, all this theory on harmonics, and balance points, etc is mainly just that ... theory.
The best answer is to take your rifle, and experiment yourself to see what it prefers.
And good luck with that,
LAZ 1
for best theoretical accuracy, mount the bipod back from the tip.
With the M14 forend design, with a semi round barrel band acting in unison with the steel ferrule forend tip, the barrel is supposed to thrash around with each shot and hopefully come to rest in approximately the same spot. This is why "forend tensioning" and that little dab of grease at the forend tip, are so important to M14 accuracy.
Bolting the bipod to the gas assembly, or to the forend tip, can THEOMORONETICLLY interupt the harmonics, and cause inconsistencies.
Of course, all this theory on harmonics, and balance points, etc is mainly just that ... theory.
The best answer is to take your rifle, and experiment yourself to see what it prefers.
And good luck with that,
LAZ 1
I currently have this one for sale on the EE
and it's the one that was developed for the M14 as seen here;
But I personaly install this;
In the hole before the sling loop. It cost $12 USD and so simple to install and when I don't need my bipod on this rifle I can use it on another. Plus I personaly think Haris Bi-Pod's rock.
and it's the one that was developed for the M14 as seen here;
But I personaly install this;
In the hole before the sling loop. It cost $12 USD and so simple to install and when I don't need my bipod on this rifle I can use it on another. Plus I personaly think Haris Bi-Pod's rock.
The cheapest and BY FAR best way to mount a harris bipod is to simply buy a swivel stud meant for wood stocks, drill a hole about 3" forward of the magazine and screw it in. Probably cost you $5 plus the bipod. When you mount the bipods forward on an M14 you will get a different POI between offhand and bench shooting plus the forward balance sucks balls.
I have a USGI M2 bipod on my rifle. It's a heavy piece of duty kit, but a little ratley and I had to grind off the bottom of the legs a bit to keep it from digging into the stock, but I havent seen any m14 around my parts with the same bipod, maybe thats good or bad. I like it and will continue to use it.
Agreed
Agreed - but a long thick picatinny rail bolted on the bottom of the forend stiffens it enough to allow more forward mounted bipods with no POI shift -
More holes to drill though
As in below -
Agreed - but a long thick picatinny rail bolted on the bottom of the forend stiffens it enough to allow more forward mounted bipods with no POI shift -
More holes to drill though
As in below -
