thinking of buying a remingtonl 700, any thoughts?

I don't think you will go wrong by buying a 700...they make them in different finishes and the price varies accordingly...enjoy.
 
Cartridge (pick a number!)
Stock material (solid, laminated, synthetic)
Finish (blued, parkerized)
Steel (carbon, stainless)
Magazine (detachable, floorplate, blind box)
Barrel (fluted, triangular, round)
 
Well then you might as well buy one , their just like honda civics , there's millions of them out there and nothing special about any of them, although everyone that owns one thinks theirs is the best. So put your leash on , get in line and join the other sheeple and buy one.:stirthepot2:
 
Well then you might as well buy one , their just like honda civics , there's millions of them out there and nothing special about any of them, although everyone that owns one thinks theirs is the best. So put your leash on , get in line and join the other sheeple and buy one.:stirthepot2:

OK, I'm bored, so I will respond to your obvious "pot stirring"..LOL! Oh please tell us Mr Devil Cyclops, since you seem to have some disdain for the Rem 700...which other brand/model would you prefer?

And to the "Rookie"...a Rem 700 or Win Model 70 (as per your other post) will both do the job all day long. Go to the gun store and get your hands on on several models of each...buy the one that feels best to you, and never look back.
 
Last edited:
One of the great things about a 700 - an inherently accurate action as a basis to build when you wear that factory barrel out...
 
OK, I'm bored, so I will respond to your obvious "pot stirring"..LOL! Oh please tell us Mr Devil Cyclops, since you seem to have some disdain for the Rem 700...which other brand/model would you prefer?

And to the "Rookie"...a Rem 700 or Win Model 70 (as per your other post) will both do the job all day long. Go to the gun store and get your hands on on several models of each...buy the one that feels best to you, and never look back.

Ruger 77, Winchester 70, sako 85, weatherby mark v or vanguard , browning x or a bolt.
 
Ruger 77, Winchester 70, sako 85, weatherby mark v or vanguard , browning x or a bolt.

All fine choices indeed, but no less "Honda Civic" than a Rem 700...maybe there are not as many of the other brands you mention out there (vs. millions of Rems), but there's certainly nothing more "original" about the brands you mentioned...
 
One of the great things about a 700 - an inherently accurate action as a basis to build when you wear that factory barrel out...

That says it all.

I have only owned a couple; I recently bought a pretty new one, the 2012 "75th Anniversary of the .257 Roberts" 700 CDL stainless fluted limited. It feeds, ejects and fires smoothly. I like it. The trigger is good, the stock geometry fits me better than most, and it is a lovely rifle to look at as well.
Rather than comparing it to a Honda Civic, I would compare it to buying Gray tools. Solid, dependable product with fifty years of production and five million units to back it up. You could do worse. I see Cyclops has posted some of his preferred rifles, and any of them will be as good as the 700. Not better, necessarily, but as good. Oddly enough, Cyclops seems to favour mostly "sheeple" rifles himself. He included all but the Tikka T3.
 
thinking of buying a remington 700 as my first hunting rifle, any thought on the gun?

I think you can get a better built hunting gun than a Rem 700 for the money. There's more to a "hunting rifle" than an "action" to build from. I'm not one to build and tinker with my guns, except sight's, scope. I buy a gun to scope it, shoot straight and hunt with. Since buying a accustock Savage I'd never consider another Rem700 for the same coin.
 
I'm not one to build and tinker with my guns, except sight's, scope. I buy a gun to scope it, shoot straight and hunt with. Since buying a accustock Savage I'd never consider another Rem700 for the same coin.

:)

Proper Adjustment of The AccuStock
There is a specific technique for assembling the action into the AccuStock, and it needs to be strictly adhered to as follows:

1. Ensure that the recoil lug “wedge” screw is backed out to the point where the wedge has sufficient vertical movement to allow the recoil lug to seat against the bottom of the aluminum rail.

2. With the action inserted into the stock, justify the action toward the rear of the stock to allow the recoil lug on the action to be seated against the boss on the aluminum rail.

3. Tighten the forward most screw to 10 in.-lbs. to seat the action against the aluminum rail boss, then back out one-half turn.

4. Tighten the middle action screw to 10 in.-lbs.

5. Tighten the rear action screw to 10 in.-lbs.

6. Tighten the forward action screw to 10 in.-lbs

Repeat steps four through six and increase torque value in increments up to a final torque value of 40 to 45 in.-lbs.

Note: It is extremely important to tighten per the instructions above because when you are tightening the action down into the AccuStock you are spreading the aluminum side rails and evenly moving the action down onto the base of the rail, ensuring positive engagement.


Feel free to print this off and tape it to your torque wrench.
 
Well - The Rookie seems to be covering all the bases - on the internet at least. It would be a shame if he bought a rifle, and decided after the fact that he needed a detachable magazine, or iron sights, or even a lever or a pump.
 
:)

Proper Adjustment of The AccuStock
There is a specific technique for assembling the action into the AccuStock, and it needs to be strictly adhered to as follows:

1. Ensure that the recoil lug “wedge” screw is backed out to the point where the wedge has sufficient vertical movement to allow the recoil lug to seat against the bottom of the aluminum rail.

2. With the action inserted into the stock, justify the action toward the rear of the stock to allow the recoil lug on the action to be seated against the boss on the aluminum rail.

3. Tighten the forward most screw to 10 in.-lbs. to seat the action against the aluminum rail boss, then back out one-half turn.

4. Tighten the middle action screw to 10 in.-lbs.

5. Tighten the rear action screw to 10 in.-lbs.

6. Tighten the forward action screw to 10 in.-lbs

Repeat steps four through six and increase torque value in increments up to a final torque value of 40 to 45 in.-lbs.

Note: It is extremely important to tighten per the instructions above because when you are tightening the action down into the AccuStock you are spreading the aluminum side rails and evenly moving the action down onto the base of the rail, ensuring positive engagement.


Feel free to print this off and tape it to your torque wrench.

I read my instructions to a.... front and rear stock screw tightened to a around 40 in/pds torque, once recoil lug is seated in the stock. Nothing to difficult or much difference with any other rifle. Don't have the slightest clue of to what you are saying.
 
out of the mid prices rifles rem 700's are as good as any and better than some. for me its a tossup between rems and tikkas. i have a bunch of both. if you can expand your budget i would be looking at coopers. i just can't afford a safe full of coopers but i do have one.
 
SuperCub - Absolutely nothing wrong with a pump - I use one! Problem is, the young lads that watch Wild TV get the impression that the only rifle one can use for big-game hunting is a bolt action with a massive scope. We get a continuous stream of guests at our camp that show up with said gear - they are very surprised to find out that levers and pumps are most prevalent, with most folks using iron sights. Inevitably, they muff their first shot at a deer because of "over-scoping" issues. It does provide good entertainment, and a reprieve for the deer.
 
I think there are different accu-stocks (not sure though)....not all have the old style wedge screw. Was looking at a FHSS and it only had the two action bolts.
 
Back
Top Bottom