the only advantage the loadmaster has over the 1000 is the extra stations- you still run into the same type of priming problem, and you don't need the extra stations for an auto
i;ve got 3 1000 and a loadmaster- with the loadmaster, you never seem to know when you're going to have to tear it apart to fix the priming mech- i've gone so far as to have 2 or 3 spare complete mechanisms and about 10 extra sliders just so i can contine my run- plus it can and does work itself into a non working condition- even lee admits this in the videos- sure, it's a simple fix, ( you loosen and re-tighten the drive bolt after re-centering the ram) and it's not SUPPOSED to happen, but it does- the 1000 doesn't do that at all- i've had my 1000 in 9mm, 45, and 223 since about 1988 or 90, and loaded thousands of rounds through them, and the only caveat is the priming mech- and having to replace the nylon gears once in a while- all that being said , there are a few things you can do to "improve" the primer mech- some guys have put o rings on the stepped coumn to give the mechanism more of a bump as it rolls over, and i've made the back end higher than the front by means of washers to improve the gravity flow - about a 15 degree forward tilt- do do this on the 223, as it throws the neck of the case out of sync with the decapper- i've also bypassed the primer block so i get a primer whether there's a case in the powder slot or not- it's a simple thing to remove the primer with needle nose pliers and replace it in the primer feed tray- i also drilled a feed hole on the feed tray cover so i can replace primers one at a time without opening the tray- CAUTION: THESE ARE THINGS THAT WORK FOR ME AND I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS