Those damn Mauser cracks

Nabs

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 99.6%
267   1   1
Location
Somewhere...
Well I have been actively shooting my Gewehr 98 and she has been very pleasant to shoot at the range with my light hand loads. Today I noticed the infamous crack forming behind the receiver tang. I took the rifle apart and sure enough, some other cracks were present in the usual places near the trigger cut out and cleaning rod channel.

I have suspended shooting her until I can stabilize the cracks but I will admit I have no experience with this problem so I am asking for help from my fellow CGNers. I am on a budget as well but I will explore just about any reliable option I can as I wish to continue shooting this girl.

Here are some pictures of those damned cracks:

2012-07-02-160740.jpg


2012-07-02-160716.jpg


2012-07-02-160820.jpg


2012-07-02-160832.jpg


2012-07-02-160756.jpg


Thank you for any help you guys can provide.
 
The first tip, and I think it's the most important of all for this type of repair: You want the cleanest, driest wood before glueing. Any grime / oil / residue of any sort in the cracks will weaken the repair.
 
Clean wood is important. I think thinning Acraglas and pouring it into the cracks would work well for the glue portion of the repair. Maybe acetone for cleaning the wood?
 
Nabs, your beautiful Mauser stock is self-destructing.

The CAUSE of the problem is that the wood is a century old and has dried out thoroughly. This robs it of strength and resiliency.

I have dealt with this problem a number of times over the last few years, so here's what I do.

FIRST, get a kit of Acra-Glas LIQUID.

SECOND, go to the vet or to the drugstore and get a hypodermic syringe, 5cc or larger, 10 or 15 preferred. Might cost a buck.

THIRD, head for the auto-parts dealer and get a can of Brake-Kleen.

FOURTH, set yourself up with a Crescent Wrench (about 12 inches or 18 inches) and either a variety of wide screwdrivers and wood chisels OR a selection of steel bar-stock in widths from a half-inch to an inch and a half.

FIFTH, lay in half a dozen 3-inch C-clamps and half a dozen cheap washcloths.

Take the stock outside and flush it completely with the Brake-Kleen. This should remove any and all oil near the surface of the wood and leave you with a dry working surface. Be sure to squirt a bunch down into those cracks. You use the Crescent Wrench and the screwdrivers/chisels or whatever to wedge those cracks open while you do this.

Let the stock STAND an hour after doing this.

Now, pad the butt carefully, put it into your vise and clamp it in solid.

Mix up about half an ounce (15cc) of the Acra-Glas Liquid and suck it up into your syringe. You don't need the needle, so trash that: use just the syringe itself.

Now, with your Crescent Wrench and wedges, being careful not to twist hard enough to damage the wood, wedge open each of those cracks in turn, squirt it full of Acra-Glas and let it return to normal.

When ALL of the cracks have had their dose of Acra-Glas Liquid, get out your washcloths and your C-clamps and start padding the stock outside of the cracks, then clamp each washcloth solid. Be sure that you don't clamp TOO tight: you do not want to mar that beautiful old stock.

Now you can trash the syringe; anything remaining in it will set up as solid as rock and there is just about zero chance of re-using it.

When you are finished, let the stock STAND for 12 hours, THEN take a paper-knife or Exacto-knife or something similar and TRIM off any excess Acra-Glas which has worked its way out of the cracks, trimming FLUSH with the wood. Once this has been done, you have a stock which will NOT break again in those places.

The remaining PROBLEM is that the stock now is even drier than it was before you started and thus even MORE prone to cracking. Get out your Raw Linseed Oil and give the INSIDE of the woodwork a nice drink of oil. If it dries out immediately, give it another drink. When the oil starts to remain on the surface, THEN you wipe it dry, let it stand overnight and then give it a final coat of DOUBLE-BOILED LINSEED OIL to seal everything in. Let her stand for 3 days, then reassemble your rifle.

Your problem should be CURED and ought not return for another 25 years or so, if even then.

Sorry that this is a week-long job, but that's how to do it right. You can take some solace in that it took 90 years for the problem to surface; a week is okay for solving it!

Hope this helps.
.
 
Thank you guys, great advice from everyone. Thank you for the loads of info, Smellie, it is much appreciated.

I would hate to loose the wood finish that is on the exterior, it is very nice but if that is the way to go to fix these cracks, so be it.

I'll get the supplies together and post back on the results, wish me luck.

And yes Smellie, this wood stock is drop dead gorgeous. It has received a bullet strike at some point in it's past and the hand guard has two repaired cracks so I guess it was only a matter of time before the stock showed signs of the same problem.
 
If somebody shot ME, I would be rather surprised if I didn't develop a couple of cracks!

You don't have to remove any exterior finish, Nabs. There is exposed wood close enough to these areas that the new oil will soak in from the side. You want fresh oil covering ALL worked inside surfaces.

Just wedge the cracks open, shoot 'em full of Acra-Glass Liquid, clamp and let stand. For the OUTSIDE cracks, same process except that, just as SOON as you have clamped things, wipe any excess A-G off with a shop towel.

Should do the trick.

Good luck!
.
 
smellie's/Lou's advice is good. The only thing I would add to the mix is furniture restorers use a caustic solution that works a bit better than Brake Cleen. It penetrates a bit deeper is all and washes out the grease that has soaked in. Not a biggie though, brake cleaner works well.

The syringes are available at the Dollar Store, 5 for $2. They don't come with needles.
 
You also need t make sure the rear of the receiver tang is not "bedded" against the back of the inletting. If it is, you either need to relieve it slightly, or add a few thou shim to the front of the recoil lug to prevent it cracking again.
 
Glad to report I have followed Smellie's advice to a "T" yesterday while repairing a crack in the buttstock of a Beretta ultralight shotgun. :)

And Claven, thanks for the tip, I believe that's likely one of the causes of the problem with that buttstock!

Lou
 
I read somewhere that the main cause of those cracks was the fact the wood was shrinking around that rear steel spacer tube & it prevented such movement. Should that spacer be free floating? Anyone any comments / opinions? --- John303.
 
As CLAVEN2 posts, rifle stocks crack in this area.

This is a big problem with a lot of rifles, but seems especially prone to Mausers. Maybe because there are so many of them, or that they get a bit of rough treatment in Military hands.

What happens is that the end of the receiver tang is rounded, and when the rifle fires, this tang is forced back against the end of the wood inletting by the recoil. Usually a steel tube is inlet in the stock for a rear guard screw but tight inletting can nullify this precaution.

The rounded end of the tang acts just like a wedge and the recoil like a hammer to make the tang act like a wood splitter. This not only cracks the wood in the wrist area, but also in the thinner areas between the trigger inlet hole and the magazine hole. This stock is typical of those cracks.
.
 
I'd also spend a bit of time to check the bedding, front and rear. If the wood shrunk, is may well "suspend" the rear out of the wood on both ends (trigger guard and tang). The fit between the tube and the wood should be so when the wood is lightly compressed, the tube then acting like a pillar and sandwiches the stock between the tang and the trigger guard.
 
Although I have no details of the above rifle, in all liklihood the stock is not original to the action. The Mauser stock fitters were par-excellence and I've never seen a matching stock from a German factory split.

What usually happens is someone adds a mis-matched stock and the tang inletting is too short, then tang wedges the stock until it crqacks, as stated. It only takes a few thou.

when adding a new stock, ALWAYS put inletting black on the back of the tang, assemble the rifle and give the butt a good rap on the floor (ideally on carpet or a piece of wood - not concrete). Take it back apart and if there is any inletting black on the stock around the tang, you have a bedded tang - which is bad - and the area needs to be carefully scraped until there is no contact.
 
Some very great ideas here! Lou, I am happy that this thread was worth posting since it helped you with a LE butt.

Claven, those shims sound like a good idea in addition to the acraglass fix that Smellie suggested, and I would like to include those. What would I use for the proper shim and how would I go about putting it in ? The receiver tang also sits right up against the stock, there appears to be no visible space between the back of the tang and the stock, should there be ?

John, I have run into some Mauser stocks where the rear space is floating and others where it is stuck in position. I'm not sure which way is proper but I imagine if the stock has shrunk in these thin wood areas, it will just lead to cracking in the end. I did happen to see if the space was free on this stock when I took it apart and it was firm in position.
 
The rear pillar is supposed to be a tight fit on the stock as it acts as a bedding pillar. The receiver tang and trigger guard are supposed to make hard contact with that pillar with a slight wood crush as you snug the action screw up. There is play between the collar and the action screw allowing a small amount of movement under impulse.

In terms of shim stock, I actually prefer to insead scrape some clearance at the back of the tang, but if this would cause the rear action screw to contact (foul) the bedding pillar, you need to shim. Brass or steel shim stock is best, but I have seen aluminum pop can used as well. I just buy a cheap princess-auto feeler gauge set and make my shims from the gauges and scissors as and when required.
 
Back
Top Bottom