Threading SKS barrel - Calum?

Steiner

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I wanted to try a thread on muzzle brake on the SKS. Typically, how much thread area is required? How much thread area can one tap onto the SKS barrel? I would probably go for 14x1 RH threads as I have a few VZ muzzle brakes to try out.

Thanks Kasat. I stand corrected. The VZ is 14x1 RH. Same as the Yugo M59/66. I in error was thinking AK LH thread.

I ask because I notice the Yugo M59/66 barrels seem to have MUCHO thread when you remove the grenade launcher. There obviously is no shortage of thread on these: http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=29669.0
 
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VZ muzzle brakes are obviously 14x1 RH so if you want to try them on your SKS you better thread your barrel 14x1 RH. A perfect thread can only be achieved on a lathe and this requires removal of the barrel from the receiver. A less perfect but still workable thread can be achieved at your home workshop using custom made tool that will hold the die perfectly 90 degrees.
You also have to install a stop pin inside the front sight post and this is damn tricky. I did it twice but the results were less than perfect (it worked fine though) since the post is hollow inside.
Just my 2 cents.
 
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I'm not gunsmith, so I'd recommend finding one that works with barrels, and such required equipment.
Sounds like an interesting project. :)
 
Not that my temporary confusion of which rifles had RH and LH threads has cleared, maybe I'll just get a Yugo M59/66 that is already threaded in 14x1 RH - I always wanted a Yugo anyways. :)
Thanks guys.
 
kasat: i got a question for you, i bot a converted L1A1 flash hider for my CZ858 , it looks great, it fits fine except alittle wobbly , i was gonna use teflon tape in the thread to stop it from wobbling, what you think?
 
kasat: i got a question for you, i bot a converted L1A1 flash hider for my CZ858 , it looks great, it fits fine except alittle wobbly , i was gonna use teflon tape in the thread to stop it from wobbling, what you think?

Sorry if this is a silly question, but how much heat can that tape take?
 
Any play there will have an adverse effect on both the barrel's and brake's threads. There is a lot of pressure there especially when using true muzzle brakes which take
on themselves most of the exiting gases impact pulling the entire rifle forward thus compensating for the recoil.
Your threads will most likely go out of shape very quickly.
The worst scenario could be "baked on" effect which will melt the material in between the threads and your brake might be stuck for good on your barrel. Removing the brake by brute force will damage the threads and all your work will go down the drain. I would not recommend using any material in between the threads. It is strongly recommended to remove your brake after shooting corrosive ammo and clean the threads well otherwise the brake might be stuck there for good.
 
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