Tig welding 700 bolt handle
- Thread starter cdog
- Start date
- Location
- Alberta, North America
Corlane's in BC
Depending on what you want done, I can most likely do it for you.
Depending on what you want done, I can most likely do it for you.
pointandshoot
CGN Regular
- Location
- richmond, bc
If your providing both peices why not a local welding shop?
The handle must be positioned in exactly the correct position. This will maximize primary extraction, and control rotation.
I have attached quite a number of 600/700 handles, using silver brazing paste. Made a jig setup to hold the handle in the correct position, as well as a heat sink to protect the threads. Red heat is required; use anti-scale compound. The handle is clamped in the correct position, with the silver brazing paste squished between the body and handle. 100% coverage.
When TIG is used, where are the beads run?
Whoever you get to do the job, make sure he knows what he is doing. I've seen bolts ruined by amateur attempts at brazing, gas and arc welding.
An authorized factory service depot is an alternative worth considering. Handles shouldn't detach. A new replacement bolt body is not unreasonable.
I have attached quite a number of 600/700 handles, using silver brazing paste. Made a jig setup to hold the handle in the correct position, as well as a heat sink to protect the threads. Red heat is required; use anti-scale compound. The handle is clamped in the correct position, with the silver brazing paste squished between the body and handle. 100% coverage.
When TIG is used, where are the beads run?
Whoever you get to do the job, make sure he knows what he is doing. I've seen bolts ruined by amateur attempts at brazing, gas and arc welding.
An authorized factory service depot is an alternative worth considering. Handles shouldn't detach. A new replacement bolt body is not unreasonable.
I would not waste the money if it hasn't broken off... it is not common for Remington's bolt brazing to fail. If one does fail, it is due to a bad induction job at the factory level. If properly silvered soldered back on it should run for many years... there are millions of old 700's with no bolt problems...
They do,I have had several done by them. Very happy with the finished results.
This is how the best in the world does it... no welds on the front at all...
Nice job. That is a straight fusion weld with no filler rod except for the underside. I have done a lot of this type of welding, but on tool and die, very little on guns. Build is minimal, heat is minimal and localized, but strength is high. For a clean weld like the bottom picture all, and I mean all of the old brazing material must be removed; if not there will be a very dirty and porous weld.
If you did this, you are a master; good job!
gunrunner8
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, B.C.
10 000+ repaired handles & counting" by one tradesman.... well that's confirms my suspicion that Remington bolt handles fly off
way more often that some are suggesting.
I myself fixed a doz or so Rem 788 bolt handles and couple of Rem 700 as well.
If any body likes fixing the joint with silver soldering I would suggest to use strong machine flat head bolt right in the middle of joint
in addition for extra assurance.
Another weak spot in Rem bolts are cartridge extractors,,,, I replaced scores of them and let me tell you;
Replacement parts are not made from spring steel any more, I saw reg nails made from better material....
In conclusion, to spend hundreds of extra bucks to accurize Rem 700 (should be done in factory) and have reasonable expectation for accurate rifle
build makes no sense IMHO.
It makes way better sense to start with custom action.
GR8 2c worth
gunrunner8
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, B.C.
("fairly common") is fair description with me, retired machinist with no dog in this race.
My advice to you would be to fix the problem and sell the lemon to someone enamored with Remington brand.
I hope that your rifle isn't chambered in 223Rem kind of cartridge b/c you would not be able to rely on "three rings of steel" either.
Bolt protrusion being .700" dia and brass being .375" dia at head makes "third ring" as much as .162" thick.
Good luck for that ring to "expand and seal" in the case of total brass case failure.
You would be much better off with either Browning A bolt or Savage 110 that employ baffles behind the locking lugs to complete seal the raceways.
Remington 700 is below average design rifle for hunting, by no means base for target rifle.
The metal strips joining front and rear receiver rings are so thin that bench rest shooters to have good results need to "sleeve" the action.
In addition to that blueprinting it and lapping the locking lugs doesn't make sense if the bolt has .010" slop inside receiver!
To correct that bushing the bolt body to within .001" to max ,002" play is needed.
No amount of lipstick will transfer the miss piggy into the beauty queen....
For those interested I can recommend reading book "Bolt Action Rifles" by Frank de Hass, "Benchrest Actions & Triggers" by Stuart Otteson and others.
Believe it or not that's MY story and I am sticking to it.
Last edited:
