Tight Chamber

I have a Remington 700 M40 Long Range rifle in 300win mag. For some reason, after each and every firing, factory or reloads, the cases get stuck in the chamber. I can lift the bolt arm no problem, but when I try to pull it back to eject the fired casing, it's pretty hard. Today for example, I had to hit the bolt arm numerous times to get it to finally break free and move back which then ejected the spent casing freely. My buddy and I thought that perhaps it was a case of higher than normal pressures which caused the case to expand too much in the chamber, however this is also happening with factory rounds as well. Could Remington have f'd up on the chambering tolerances? I've got somewhere in the neighbourhood of 100-150 rounds through the gun and them getting stuck has been the case since the first round. Unfortunately I also live in a place that prohibits the idea of just popping down to the local gunsmith and having them look at it. TIA
 
It happens occasionally that the factory puts out a product that has a flaw...

Continue shooting it until you break the bolt handle off trying to extract the fired round... or perhaps contact the manufacturer or a gunsmith and get it solved.
 
poor primary extraction, send it to guntech im sure he could fix it just right. Ive had to do 3 of my latest factory actions because they had near no primary extraction.
 
Your bolt could be out of time and the cam isn't engaging. A young kid down the way had the same problem with a really nice stainless 700 his uncle sold him cheap. He ended up sending it away to be fixed.
 
poor primary extraction, send it to guntech im sure he could fix it just right. Ive had to do 3 of my latest factory actions because they had near no primary extraction.

I am not doing general repairs any longer... now mostly accuracy work on 700's (truing, barreling, triggers, bedding)
 
I have a Remington 700 M40 Long Range rifle in 300win mag. For some reason, after each and every firing, factory or reloads, the cases get stuck in the chamber. I can lift the bolt arm no problem, but when I try to pull it back to eject the fired casing, it's pretty hard. Today for example, I had to hit the bolt arm numerous times to get it to finally break free and move back which then ejected the spent casing freely. My buddy and I thought that perhaps it was a case of higher than normal pressures which caused the case to expand too much in the chamber, however this is also happening with factory rounds as well. Could Remington have f'd up on the chambering tolerances? I've got somewhere in the neighbourhood of 100-150 rounds through the gun and them getting stuck has been the case since the first round. Unfortunately I also live in a place that prohibits the idea of just popping down to the local gunsmith and having them look at it. TIA

Polish the chamber, fire some rds, and hand load one at a time, select rds that the brass isn't "banged up" or damaged, once your able to get the casing out, look for any "abnormalities" on the brass surface in the chamber area.BTW REM chambers are pretty rough these days ;), That's about the best you can do on the internet. Good Luck.
 
My deepest condolences

Yea I'm starting to have the same feelings... Buddy of mine was able to look down the chamber a bit better than I and he noticed a big bur on the side of the chamber. This must have been there since day one as I've been having the issue since the first round. I tried contacting Remington warranty about it and was basically brushed off and told "good luck". I ordered a reamer though so hopefully that remedies the issue.
 
Do fired cases show marks commensurate with a burr in the chamber?
Usually the cases will tell the story.
What are you going to do with the reamer? The likelihood of the reamer exactly matching the existing chamber is next to nil. If you run it in far enough to cut clean, you will likely increase headspace.
 
I have never understood the concept of a big burr in the chamber... how does such a big burr occur... the chamber reaming process and polishing of the chamber does not cause such a thing... it would not leave the factory with a 'burr' in the chamber I am sure... all I can think of is someone introduced a hard object into the chamber. It would take quite an effort to create a big burr on the side of the chamber. I would expect fired brass to reflect this burr.

"I tried contacting Remington warranty about it and was basically brushed off and told "good luck"."

Seriously? A Remington warranty station did that? And you are letting that go?

Once you get your 'reamer' and run it in you can kiss any warranty goodbye though...
 
I have never understood the concept of a big burr in the chamber... how does such a big burr occur... the chamber reaming process and polishing of the chamber does not cause such a thing... it would not leave the factory with a 'burr' in the chamber I am sure... all I can think of is someone introduced a hard object into the chamber. It would take quite an effort to create a big burr on the side of the chamber. I would expect fired brass to reflect this burr.

"I tried contacting Remington warranty about it and was basically brushed off and told "good luck"."

Seriously? A Remington warranty station did that? And you are letting that go?

Once you get your 'reamer' and run it in you can kiss any warranty goodbye though...


Not sure what caused the burr. The issue was there since day one so it's not something that I did (only thing I ever put in there were loaded rounds). If a reamer won't fix the job, any thoughts on what might?

Sadly, yes the warranty centre did tell me that. They claimed that I must have done something so they would charge me for any service and repairs done. Of course that was total bs as this was going on since I bought the damn thing from a dealer. Not much that I could do about it though because they'd either refuse to fix the gun if I didn't pay, or they'd hold it hostage until I did. Once I ship them the gun, it's definitely out of my hands and I'm at their mercy basically.
 
Not sure what caused the burr. The issue was there since day one so it's not something that I did (only thing I ever put in there were loaded rounds). If a reamer won't fix the job, any thoughts on what might?

Sadly, yes the warranty centre did tell me that. They claimed that I must have done something so they would charge me for any service and repairs done. Of course that was total bs as this was going on since I bought the damn thing from a dealer. Not much that I could do about it though because they'd either refuse to fix the gun if I didn't pay, or they'd hold it hostage until I did. Once I ship them the gun, it's definitely out of my hands and I'm at their mercy basically.

WOW ! Remington calls a customer a liar !! Just WOW
I would assume they should look at it at least before such a statement
 
How about photos of fired cases? A burr in the chamber will be really obvious.

You titled the thread "Tight Chamber". Is it a tight chamber or a burred chamber? If factory cartridges chamber without interference, then the chamber isn't tight.

If the chamber is bad, about the only remedy is to set the barrel back a bit and recut the chamber. If you have already paid for a reamer, you might as well send the rifle off to a 'smith and have the work done.
The barrel will need to be removed, set up correctly in the lathe, the shoulder, barrel face and barrel counterbore recut, and the chamber reamed until correct headspace is achieved. The chamber will need to be reamed until all remains of the original chamber are removed.
Is the barrel worth the investment of time and money?
How well does it shoot?
Unless it is really accurate, I wouldn't bother reworking the factory barrel. I'd install a premium barrel.
Something to consider - if you have this work done, you will never get the cost back if you decide to sell the rifle.

If the bolt handle is not properly installed for effective primary extraction, it would be a waste of time and money to work on the barrel. Bolt, receiver and barrel - are two of the three less than desired?
Carefully open the bolt and observe when the cams at the root of the bolt handle and receiver make contact. If cam action is minimal, operation is never going to be optimal.

You might be further ahead to just send the thing off to the Remington warranty center, and let them sort it out. Or sell it as is at a loss to someone who wants a project.
 
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How about photos of fired cases? A burr in the chamber will be really obvious.

You titled the thread "Tight Chamber". Is it a tight chamber or a burred chamber? If factory cartridges chamber without interference, then the chamber isn't tight.

If the chamber is bad, about the only remedy is to set the barrel back a bit and recut the chamber. If you have already paid for a reamer, you might as well send the rifle off to a 'smith and have the work done.
The barrel will need to be removed, set up correctly in the lathe, the shoulder, barrel face and barrel counterbore recut, and the chamber reamed until correct headspace is achieved. The chamber will need to be reamed until all remains of the original chamber are removed.
Is the barrel worth the investment of time and money?
How well does it shoot?
Unless it is really accurate, I wouldn't bother reworking the factory barrel. I'd install a premium barrel.
Something to consider - if you have this work done, you will never get the cost back if you decide to sell the rifle.

If the bolt handle is not properly installed for effective primary extraction, it would be a waste of time and money to work on the barrel. Bolt, receiver and barrel - are two of the three less than desired?
Carefully open the bolt and observe when the cams at the root of the bolt handle and receiver make contact. If cam action is minimal, operation is never going to be optimal.

You might be further ahead to just send the thing off to the Remington warranty center, and let them sort it out. Or sell it as is at a loss to someone who wants a project.

I thought that it was a tight chamber as the cases would go in about half way and then start to get stuck. It was only after my buddy noticed the burr, that I realized what was causing the issue. The cases do have a nice scratch on the side and you can feel it if you run your fingers over it.

I'll probably call it a loss (so that it's not a money pit for me), sell off the barreled action and replace it with (sadly), another Remington. Unfortunately the barreled action is in a chassis that is only designed for Remington.
 
From a standpoint of cutting your losses, rebarrelling your action might be the best option. That will cost you , say, $600, and you will likely have a better barrel than Remington factory. While the barrel is being done, the action could be gone over as well. You could easily wind up with a superior rifle.
 
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