Tightening without Torque Wrench

Tjv787

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Does anyone have tips for tightening scope mounting screws to the right torque without a torque wrench?
Or is the torque wrench needed to do it right ?
 
I like to use medium Loctite...do not use high strength if you ever might want to take it apart! I put on drop on the first screw and spread it out to the other 3, standing them up until I need them. Do not use too much. Tighten reasonably tight, use the small allen keys if you're unsure and u will be less likely to over torque.
 
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Does anyone have tips for tightening scope mounting screws to the right torque without a torque wrench?
Or is the torque wrench needed to do it right ?

Scope rings only require 10-15 in lbs and scope bases 25 inch lbs or less. for bases I apply moderate pressure with one finger against the long leg of an allen. for rings I use my thumb and one finger on the short leg of the allen. This is not scientific but has served me well.
 
The only way to be sure, IMHO, is with the wrench.
If you go manual, check your scope once in a while and ensure it does not move. You could put a small piece of tape on the scope just at the junction of the ring, if it moves you will notice it right away.
Make sure your rings are clean, no oil. Same thing with scope.
 
tighten it until it snaps, then extract it and tighten the rest just a little less.

Call it the Calvin method.

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A torque wrench is money well spent... if you do go manual don't over do it or else you will end up with a bigger problem than you had to begin with.
 
To measure the right torque without a torque wrench you could use a trigger pull gauge to pull on a wrench or something along those lines. Eg: To toruqe to 15inlb if you pull on the wrench 3" from where it pivots with 5lb force will give you the right torque.
 
Canadian Tire had a torque screw driver on a while back.
Wheeler makes one for around the fifty-sixty mark.
I bought the Wheeler gizmo and find I do more staring at it
than using it.
Then again, I still maintain my thread feel from days of yore.
Find an old set of rings that are junk and have att'r.
Screw until you break the screw or strip or whatever occurs first.
Then you'll have an eye deer of forgiveness.
 
Here's a ballpark way and it's not foolproof as everyone is a bit different...

Use the long side of the allen wrench instead of the short end. Doing so reduces the amount of torque you can physically put on the screw. On those small allen wrenches, when your nail starts turning white, you're roughly around 15in/lbs. When you bottom out and it starts to hurt your fingers, you're looking at around 20-25inch lbs unless you're a 300lb gorilla.

Invest in a 1/4" torque wrench for small work or torque screwdriver. :)
 
I am of the tighten till it stops and then give it a 1/8-1/4 turn extra, it's always worked for me on small screws etc. For anything bigger or on my motorcycle or truck I pull out a proper torque wrench. I'll eventually buy a torque screw driver someday, I always forget to look for one when I'm tool shopping...
 
Well, my torque driver has saved me a bunch of money.

The spec for Talley Lightweights is 15-20 in-lb for the ring screws.

Using the 1/8 turn per screw method, star pattern, all that...

15 in-lb will leave pinch marks on a VX-3 tube. 13 won't and holds just fine :)
 
Canadian Tire had a torque screw driver on a while back.
Wheeler makes one for around the fifty-sixty mark.
I bought the Wheeler gizmo and find I do more staring at it
than using it.
Then again, I still maintain my thread feel from days of yore.
Find an old set of rings that are junk and have att'r.
Screw until you break the screw or strip or whatever occurs first.
Then you'll have an eye deer of forgiveness.


Yep, that's what i'm talkin about... I got by for years and never had a scope go loose. Now I have a CDI torque wrench but I think a better investment for a newbie is a quality set of bits or drivers from Wiha...prevents a lot of unnecessary damage to the screws.
 
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