Tikka T3 Tactical

I just traded in my Rem 700P for the TikTac in .223, tired of getting defective bolts.

I measured the leade with a 69g SMK, it seems to be at least 50 thou longer than the Remington. Does the Tikka like bullets seated out at the lands like the Remington? If so that's a problem, because the long rounds don't fit in the magazine. Anybody figured out a way to get a longer magazine?

And what's with the screw that sticks up at the front of the Picatinny rail? I'll probably end up with an aftermarket 20MOA rail, any advice?

Thanks,
Eric
 
Front screw is for the mirage band (there is a matching screw on the factory brake). I have an EGW 25moa on my T3.

Don't try to take the factory one off yourself, I sheared 3 of 4 screw and had to have a smith remove them, they also ?glue? the rail down to make it all the more interesting. I shoot one in 308 so can't answer the seating question.
 
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I own a Tikka T3 Tactical in .308 and love it. Just put a Elite 4200 6x24x50 on it and shot this:

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3 shots, 100yds, bipod prone shooting, no sandbag. Tight enough for you?

As has been said, while I would not dispute the quality and proven track record of the Rem 700, you do have to put a lot of work into that platform. If you're a fiddler, great. Me, I bought my gun, put a scope on it, zero'd it, sighted her in and adjusted the trigger pull myself, adjusted the cheek weld with the factory built in one and put a Sako comp on it for good measure. She's as good for hunting as she is for shooting paper.

Obtunded said:
1) You are stuck with the Tikka stock. The recoil lug is actually in the stock, not on the juction between barrel and action. This makes after market stocks non-existent and it makes bedding them a bit more of a challenge.
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Not so. Contact Joel Russo at jkrussos@comcast.net . He makes aftermarket CNC wood laminate stocks, including ones for the T3. His work is beautiful. Me, I am happy with the tactical look and the factory stock, but YMMV.

Obtunded said:
2) The action contour tapers sharply down to a barrel that is narrower than the action itself. This limits the barrel contour to the same diameter as the factory barrel if you wanted to customize.
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Sorry, customize what aspect of the gun?

Obtunded said:
If you want a "tactical" rifle with good qualities and lots of growth potential, look at the police models in the Remington or Savage lines. They are cheaper and the possibilities are almost endless in terms of japing them up.
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The basic platform is cheaper but rapidly approaches and surpasses the Tikka. If you're into fiddling, by all means.

Obtunded said:
These two Tikka proprietary design issues mean that you're basically stuck with the factory rifle; other than optics, brakes and ammo, there is not much you can change easily. That isn't neccessarily a bad thing, but I wanted to change a few things and it was basically too expensive and difficult to be practical.
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What did you want to change? You can thread your own comps, your built in rail lets you accessorize, it takes standard attachments like bipods, you can modify the stock if you wish (I've seen some interesting attachments made by members here when at the range) or get a whole new laminate stock altogether.

Sounds to me like you're fiddly (no disrespect intended), which means you probably are better off with a Savage or Remington in order to scratch that modification itch. For me though the gun is everything I wanted without the hassle or expertise required to go out and build out the platform.

The only itch I have is custom ammo, which I build and shoot, so my itch is easily scratched without cutting into the rifle itself.
 
Thanks for the info, Bulldog. Maybe I'll not be in too big a rush to change the rail.

Now if somebody that has a .223 would just suggest a good load for the 69SMK & Varget (including COAL), I might be able to do some shooting on the weekend.




Bulldog said:
Front screw is for the mirage band (there is a matching screw on the factory brake). I have an EGW 25moa on my T3.

Don't try to take the factory one off yourself, I sheared 3 of 4 screw and had to have a smith remove them, they also ?glue? the rail down to make it all the more interesting. I shot one in 308 so can't answer the seating question.
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Punch99 said:
Someone had muzzlebreake on his T3 tac 308. Is it a must to have or not

P99
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Depends. I've got a Sako comp on mine and it keeps it from bucking while on the bipod. I find that useful. YMMV.

Try and find a used one. Mine was $150 used and perfectly fine, but I hear they retail for between $220-$250.
 
BabySeal said:
Pfft! I own a tictac in 308 and its a dream. The action is smooth like glass, the rifle is light and balanced, handling like a dream, the trigger is easy to adjust. The stock is perfect, and the bolt handle is just right. Out of the box these are ready to go.

And mine shoots sub moa with everything from federal gold medal to cheapo federal bluebox. And I have witnesses!

My friends also have an LTR and a 10FP and they also shoot very well, but only with certain types of ammo.

If you want my advice regarding your purchase... I would say that if you can afford it and you are not looking to pimp a gun out, buy the tikka and never look back.

If you want to do alot of mods get a remington. There are so many aftermarket parts for those you would need 20 rifles to try them all.

Savages have few aftermarket parts available for them, and they are quite heavy. But they are insanely accurate. Get one if you mean business but are on a budget.

Just my $0.02
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What He said, that just about covers it. :)
 
Tikkas are soo good that unlike those lil remingtons they don't need any gunsmithing after you buy it, they are ready to shoot right out of the box. Not that I have anything against remingtons infact I really like them but I dont like everyone trashing them for their price because these guns are so good they dont need any smithing done to them unless you have plans of customising it then get it but if you wanna customize it, go for the remmy.
 
sgt_scarecrow said:
Depends. I've got a Sako comp on mine and it keeps it from bucking while on the bipod. I find that useful. YMMV.

Try and find a used one. Mine was $150 used and perfectly fine, but I hear they retail for between $220-$250.
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There is a Holland brake on the T3Tac that I use. It is .308 and after a long week or so shooting this baby, you really begin to appreciate it.

The brake also allows the shooter to easily keep visual contact on the target during recoil; this all begins to add up on the plus side.

So while not really a critical item; I would put it on the neccessary list of things to eventually get.

Shelldrake
 
Wolverine sold the muzzlebreake 175$.

Shelldrake, by writing this you tell me exactly what I want to know" The brake also allows the shooter to easily keep visual contact on the target during recoil; this all begins to add up on the plus side"
Thanks everybody for you advice

P99
 
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