Tikka
- Thread starter Odinson
- Start date
We did a some tests comparing the accuracy of a new T3 Lite (only removed the pressure point in the barrel channel) and a proven T3 CTR in a carbon composite stock both in 308. After one day of testing and comparing results the difference in accuracy was very small. Overall accuracy was at a very high level (well under 1/2MOA) using factory 168gr match ammo. The biggest issue was shooter fatigue. When groups opened up we changed shooter which shrunk the groups again. Even with the CTR I have noticed in the past that point of impact wanders a bit once she gets hot which might be down to that individual barrel or hammer forged barrels in general. A T3 Lite in 308 for example would not make a great target rifle. The CTR slightly better but is starting to get heavy if doubled up as a hunting rifle. I have used one for hunting for a couple years. After seeing the results of the above tests I would now choose the Lite barrelled version for hunting.
edi
edi
Considering their highway robbery prices for a polymer mag, that's pretty lame...I'll keep track of how the ones here hold up. Haven't ever used one in anything that could be called "volume" yet, but soon.
The rest of the rifle certainly doesn't seem to be made from anything that looks like it will quit, as long as someone doesn't go full Mongo on torquing the bottom polymer lol. Some people are advising 60+ inch pounds, which kinda surprised me lol. If it holds to that, not too worried at all.
Chuckbuster
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Hahaha...I bought a left hand T3 in the Swede many years ago now. Shoots extremely well. Currently, I am giving the CTR in .308 a good long look as something I want to add to the stable.
Surprised you didn't lose any fillings before the grip cap popped off!
Comparitively cheap, sure but something about $90 for what Magpul does better for under $30 kinda hits me on general principle lol. All for a company maximizing its profits but yeeesuz. Theres a lot of great polymer mags out there for way cheaper.
^my thinking too. If Tikkas are cheaply built, what is Canuck shooting?
^if that's the case, I'd pick a Varmint. Simply put, very low # of shots=the hunter/lite. That plus target work from time-to-time=CTR
Bench only=varmint/super varmint.
I've never looked at the rate of twist on the 223 Varmints, but I think they're all 1:8? The CTR is, and they tend to prefer ammo in the 75gr. range. Great for target work.
I think Tikkas are excellent guns, sad to see the prices creeping up like they are but compared to what in that price range? They occupy an inportant place in the market if you ask me. Savage centerfires (in my experience) can be tack drivers too, out of the gate or sometimes with a little work. I've been a Tikka guy for a few years now and other than a lighter trigger spring (they're already good btw) I'm talking stock guns that are sub-MOA with factory ammo.
I think I'm just going to need to order one and ....... wait. I'm getting up in years and have my mind set on a left hand 6.5X55 and a left hand 22. Up until this point, I've always been using right hand stuff. ....... Time to indulge myself before my time card gets punched for the last time.
I don't know of any other mag system that weighs as little as the T3 Lite etc. Think around 73 grams, for that they are pretty good but can fail if hammered.. Other things that can break on a T3 are the plastic shroud which was changed to metal on the T3X, the bolt stop lever pin that some manage to snap, I have heard of the dove tail in the bolt body cracking and of a trigger failing. Of these I have only seen the plastic shroud issue a few times. At the last PRS world championships I took a box of spare T3 parts along just in case one of our customers attending would have an issue with their T3's. Only one of them had a cracked plastic shroud due to primers blowing out because of carbon build up towards the end of the comp.
Other than that I have seen one factory T3 that had the barrel fitted slightly to one side, around 2-3mm at the end or the stock. Of course with a pressure bedded plastic stock one would not notice this as the barrel pulls the stock in place. Normally there are very little issues with T3's.
Would be interesting to hear what else fails on a T3.
I think the mentioned 60inlb torque is at the upper border for that M6 thread, I prefer just a bit above 50inlb. 6NM ~ 53inlb
edi
Other than that I have seen one factory T3 that had the barrel fitted slightly to one side, around 2-3mm at the end or the stock. Of course with a pressure bedded plastic stock one would not notice this as the barrel pulls the stock in place. Normally there are very little issues with T3's.
Would be interesting to hear what else fails on a T3.
I think the mentioned 60inlb torque is at the upper border for that M6 thread, I prefer just a bit above 50inlb. 6NM ~ 53inlb
edi
It’s very strange that you hear of problems with Tikkas. I know at least 10 guys that own Tikkas and have never heard of any of them having issues.
My only complaint with Tikkas is being limited to seating bullets to 3.340”. If you plan on shooting, for example a 300win mag with heavy bullets you aren’t going to be able to seat them out very far.
My only complaint with Tikkas is being limited to seating bullets to 3.340”. If you plan on shooting, for example a 300win mag with heavy bullets you aren’t going to be able to seat them out very far.
Thanks for the info! Appreciate it, and always from a source with a lot of experience seeing them used hard.
Moving away from the plastic shroud was def. a good idea...and thanks for the torque specs
The bolt stop lever pin breakage seems to be pretty rare overall eh? Looks like it can be replaced with an aftermarket one if it really worried someone as well. There are plenty of high round count rifles having the bolt reefed on a bit that haven't broken yet too.
If you’re mostly target and bench rest shooting you’ll be well advised to get as heavy a barrel as is available for the heat and cooling factors Simple physics.
If you’re mostly target and bench rest shooting you’ll be well advised to get as heavy a barrel as is available for the heat and cooling factors.
I did some load development on a t3 lite in 300wm. The recoil was brutal, and the barrel was hot after 2 rounds. I’ve long used a wet terry cloth to cool the barrel much more quickly. Just wipe it slowly up n down the barrel. The evaporating water on the barrel cools it much quicker that way. Be careful not to get your rag too wet so the water runs down in between the stock n barrel. And it makes a big difference on how quickly the barrel heats up and cools down, based on the ambient temp you’re shooting in.
I’ve worn out 2 mags on my 204R T3. The lips wear down and the round tilts up causing poor cycling and eventually they just don’t cycle anymore. This is at well over 1k rounds. I bought a billet aluminum 10 shot mag from Watersrifleman.com in Australia. It’s been much better to cycle and also with the advantage that I can extend the coal as far out as I like which was limited in the factory mag.
I've had a few, t3 lites and also stainless laminate, the laminate stock is 3/4 lb heavier than the lite stock if anyone curious and wanting to knock recoil down a bit...get the laminate, anyhow they have all shot lights out with factory ammo, great triggers, a level above the usual working class budget options. They have a reputation to shoot with anything custom. Held up to weather well. If accuracy and function are high priorities its a top hunting rifle choice imo. Now if I was after a new sporting type rifle though I'd save some more bucks go ruger Hawkeye hunter and go a level beyond tikka. If was going to build a chassis based rig then I'd look hard at the tikka and get to aics style mags. I would build it for hunting, t3 lite for the light weight barrel, lightweight on the accessories and rings and it would be a heck of a modern hunting set up. Now I'm not interested in plastic bottom ends...I like all metal for the gun parts, magazines and bottom metals included. I can handle synthetics for the stock parts only. Action screws need to go through metal. Magazines need to be metal. Just where I'm at now.
so I don't see the tikka as a complete rifle, unless it's the models with the aics magazine bottom ends...the regular sporters etc. and anything with the usual plastic mags are 'project guns' to me...they would need changes to get rid of that plastic bottom end
so I don't see the tikka as a complete rifle, unless it's the models with the aics magazine bottom ends...the regular sporters etc. and anything with the usual plastic mags are 'project guns' to me...they would need changes to get rid of that plastic bottom end
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