time to add chokes to a 3" 1100

M

mpwolf

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I've got a Rem 1100 3" with the as issued 30" full choke tube. I would like to chop it back to 26" or so and have it threaded for tubes. The first use for the gun will be steel for the odd waterfowl hunt, so steel capability is important. My local guy recommened an extended tru-choke. I really don't have the first clue about this stuff, but when I start looking around to source tubes, I find Carlson's Tru-Choke sporting clays choke tubes. They appear to be the only extended choke tubes I can find that meet the rest of his recommended criteria. Is this what I'm looking for? Judging from everything posted here, Part #07053 light modified is about what I'm loking for?
 
I went through the 30" 1100 Magnum decision about two years ago. What worked well for me was I left it at 30" to maintain the swing and point ability and had a good smith open the choke to light modified (Skeet #2) The gun handles like a magnum 1100 should and it throws wicked patterns with 3" steel shot. The gun will still whack mallards at 40 plus yards with the best of them. I am glad I did not cut or alter my barrel beyond opening the choke. I would look for a 26" steel shot barrel for your 1100 Magnum if you really need chokes. With the cost of smithing now a days I think a new barrel would not be much more than the work on the existing one. Just my two cents enjoy your 1100 Magnum.

Darryl
 
madtrapper143 said:
I went through the 30" 1100 Magnum decision about two years ago. What worked well for me was I left it at 30" to maintain the swing and point ability and had a good smith open the choke to light modified (Skeet #2) The gun handles like a magnum 1100 should and it throws wicked patterns with 3" steel shot. The gun will still whack mallards at 40 plus yards with the best of them. I am glad I did not cut or alter my barrel beyond opening the choke. I would look for a 26" steel shot barrel for your 1100 Magnum if you really need chokes. With the cost of smithing now a days I think a new barrel would not be much more than the work on the existing one. Just my two cents enjoy your 1100 Magnum.

Darryl
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You are one of many who have discovered steel shot patterns best with less constriction. I have been opening chokes and altering the forcing cones for many years now... Skeet two is the tightest I recommend... Skeet one and improved cylinder are the majority of alterations I do...
 
I took a three inch rem barrle in to have threaded. Gun Smith recommended just having the choke opened up. Not enough meat in the barrle for threads.
 
dutchhunter said:
I took a three inch rem barrle in to have threaded. Gun Smith recommended just having the choke opened up. Not enough meat in the barrle for threads.
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You hear that a lot in canada but mostly because the smith is trying to thread them for rem choke.
It is a non issue to do 1100 barrels just you have to send them to someone that does thin walls like briley. I have three maybe four done in 1100 if I add in the 28ga and 410
Cheers
 
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My guy said to stay away from thin walls, saying they wouldn't stand up to steel. He said tru-choke extendeds were a better idea. I have no interest in a 30" barrel. It's just too ungainly.
 
mpwolf said:
My guy said to stay away from thin walls, saying they wouldn't stand up to steel. He said tru-choke extendeds were a better idea. I have no interest in a 30" barrel. It's just too ungainly.
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Like I said your guy is canadian and old school. Years ago it was like that but not any more. Same reason I send all my 410, 28 and 16ga to Briley because no one in canada says they can be done and they all come back perfect
Briley can do thin walls in either lead or all shot types including steel, in what ever style you want to pay for, extended, flush, ported etc etc
Look up their VX series on the web page
Briley 12 Gauge All Shot Type (VX) Chokes

All that being said for a 12ga cheaper to buy a new steel shot barrel with the tubes factory fitted

Cheers
 
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mpwolf said:
My guy said to stay away from thin walls, saying they wouldn't stand up to steel. He said tru-choke extendeds were a better idea. I have no interest in a 30" barrel. It's just too ungainly.
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That’s a load of H:S:. I sent a model 12 to Briley in 1992 to have thin walls installed and got it with both lead shot chokes and VX series chokes for steel. A decade later and thousands of rounds of steel later you’d never know I ever fired a single round of steel through it. I sold the gun a few years ago to a fellow cgn’r and last I heard from him on the gun he was extremely happy with it. Your gunsmith doesn’t know jack schitt!! This is the 21st century, not 18th!!
 
Talk to Casey at tactical ordinance. Good fella to deal with and he knows what he's talking about, when it comes to choke installs. He put tru chokes in a rather thin wall mossberg 590 for me. He does very good work.
 
I wouldn’t spend the coin on an 1100, but if you want to, thin wall Bailey is the way to go. Had a Model 12 done that way and will likely get it back. So nice.

Overall, Briley are great chokes. Have factory replacements in 10 and 28 gauge and they awesome.
 
madtrapper143 told you all you need to know in the first part of his post .cost you $ 75 .it is then as good a gun as there is . But thats just my opinion .
 
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rembolt said:
Trapper143 told you all you need to know in first of his post .cost you $ 75 .it is then as good a gun as there is . But thats just my opinion .
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If he is happy with just the one choke for steel I agree with you 100%
Those who kick a 1100 have little experience with them
Some day they will love to have even half the rounds through some of their semi's my old 1100's have seen since the 60's
Cheers
 
Another reason I opted for opening the FULL choke instead of cutting and installing screw ins was that the muzzle/ rib profile on the 1100 becomes some what abrupt especially if removing 4" of barrel. I know it is a cosmetic concern but rib profiles make a gun swing and point better in my opinion. When a Remington vent rib barrel, be it 1100 or 870 gets cut the gun does not look right.

Darryl
 
madtrapper143 said:
Another reason I opted for opening the FULL choke instead of cutting and installing screw ins was that the muzzle/ rib profile on the 1100 becomes some what abrupt especially if removing 4" of barrel. I know it is a cosmetic concern but rib profiles make a gun swing and point better in my opinion. When a Remington vent rib barrel, be it 1100 or 870 gets cut the gun does not look right.

Darryl
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There you go thinking rationally again?
LOL, the guy is looking for a project and cosmetics be dammed.
The fitting of a spare barrel would be easier and cost effective, but thats not the project ;)
Rob
 
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