timney triggers on a stevens/shilen?

Bobby Ironsights

Bobby Ironsights

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So, I've been buying milsurps and average rifles, everything under 600 bucks, for the last couple years, reasoning that I can't really afford to buy a nice, full-on target rifle.

Well, it occurred to me today, that instead of having twenty some odd average rifles/pistols/shotguns worth between 100 and 500 bucks, I could sell most of the milsurps and a few shotguns and build a sweet target rifle. I could also stop shooting so many strange and obsolete calibers and maybe even shoot more for less, if I bought something chambered in .223/308.

It probably helped me make up my mind that I finally found a place to shoot long distances local to me today. And also that my cousin is shooting bugholes with his savage "sniper" rifle (don't know the exact model) in 300 win mag and lording it over me a bit. (bastard)

So, starting tomorrow, I'm having a big yard sale to scrape together a couple grand.I figure I'll get a stevens or a savage and twist on an aftermarket barrel, and then have the option of buying new barrels in different calibers that share the same boltface. I'll top it with the 10x leupold I've got and have a fair bit left over for ammo. Ideally, I'll spend about the same, or less money and have a tighter rig than my cousin. I think he spent about $1100 or so, with his gun shop employee discount.

Here's the thing I'm curious about. Would it be better to get a savage and live with the accutrigger? Or get a stevens and put in a timney trigger? I know the timney can be got down quite light, but is there that much of a difference for a guy who doesn't shoot from a bench, for the most part? Is there any reason to spend the extra money on a savage instead of a stevens other than the accutrigger? Is the receiver any more rigid, or sturdier?

Thanks for your time,
Bobby.
 
i would say go with the savage and trade up to a rifle basix trigger set . just got one on my build and it is a very slick trigger. goes down to 4 oz. im set at 10 oz now and it makes the world of difference in your shooting once you get used to it but that's just my 2 cents
 
If for some reason you don't like the Accutrigger then gowith the Stevens. They're exactly the same as the Savage save the Accutrigger and the whole rifle can be had for dirt cheap, plus you can sell the unwanted parts on the EE and recoup some of your money. Mysticplayer sells the aftermarket barrels you'll need as well as the components for loading. You'll want to upgrade the stock but you might get lucky and find a take-off factory stock on the EE. The 10x Leupold is a good choice but don't hesitate to step up to a higher powerd job if you find a deal. I think ATRS may still have a 10x Leupold demo in his shop for under $1K which is a great deal and I'm surprised it lasted this long.

When it's all said and done you'll have plenty of fun with it and ammo will be much easier to come by.
 
My suggestions:

Firstly, don't sell any of what you already have. Rifles are for buying, not for selling ;-)

Secondly, just hold off and don't buy your next five $400 rifles; spend the $2000 on one complete rifle setup (rifle, scope, bipod, loading gear etc).

Get something in .308 Win, or 6BR, or .223. You will almost certainly be able to outshoot your cousin and his .300 Win, right off the bat.

Don't bother getting a replacement barrel immediately, the factory barrel is almost certainly good enough for now. A .308 or 6BR would be a better choice than a .223 if you plan on using other barrels (which is quite straightforward). It's a cinch to turn a .308 or a 6BR into a .22-250, or a .260 Rem, or a 6.5-.284, etc.

Use your 10X Leupold for now. It's fine for "tactical" sorts of shooting, but for pure target shooting, you will probably find 20X to 35X to be more comforting to shoot. Things look terribly small at 10X, though the reality is you can probably aim much better than it looks like you can aim. But only thing about getting another higher power scope sometime in the distant future when you have a better idea of what you need/want/etc.

Don't worry about triggers, nor worry that you need a sub-one-ound trigger in order to shoot well. All you need to shoot well is a good clean trigger. It might take longer to learn how to shoot a 4# trigger well, than it does to learn how to shoot a 0.75# trigger well, but there is very little intrinsic advantage to be had in particularly light triggers.

I've shot an old-style Savage trigger in competition, adjusted to 2.5# or so, and it is perfectly useable. I haven't had a chance to shoot any of their newer triggers, but I tried dry-firing the trigger of a new .22-250 (accutrigger, I think) that our club has bought as a raffle prize, and it seems absolutely gorgeous in its from-the-factory state. I would happily try shooting it in competition against $200-$500 Jewell and Anschutz triggers.
 
If you want a custom Savage defently go with a Stevens and get an aftermarket Shielen from Mystic (pre-threaded) and go with the rifle basix trigger. They are easy to install and I got mine down to 15.4 oz with just a touch of creep which I could prolly work out when I get some time. that or the SSS triggers, I like them too.

You will have to pick out a better stock next.
 
I don't know anything about the timney trigger but i know the accutrigger on my 12bvss-s is plent good for BR shooting. I'd be afraid to shoot something with a trigger pull less than a pound. also the trigger on my stevens is adjustable to 3lbs and is nice and crisp. I guess i got lucky. i was going to replace the stevens trigger with the rifle basix trigger but i don't see the need to anymore.
 
A 3lb trigger on a benchrest rifle is way too stiff. Under 2lbs is acceptable, IMO. Some Accutriggers will go 2lbs or lighter. I would spend the extra on a better trigger before a barrel even. I think it would be the better investment.
 
If "benchrest rifle" means a rifle used in benchrest competition (e.g. NBRSA, IBS, etc), they you'll want to use a 2 oz. trigger just like everybody else.

But if "benchrest rifle" means a rifle fired from a bench or fired in a fully supported and rested manner, which would include F-Class rifle shooting, sniper or "tactical" rifle matches, casual plinking, many kings of varmint shooting, etc, then there's an awful lot of room for a 1#-4# good clean trigger...
 
Think the Timney trigger has a 2-4 lb. range. Kinda heavy.
I have the Stevens .223 & the Rifle Basix Sav-2.
In addition to reloading gear & bedding the action, I think that'll do me for the time being while I learn how to shoot.
 
I own both styles and have built many rifles so both ways are good.

If you want a trigger that is around 1.5 to 2lbs, a wonderful center feed D mag, alloy trigger guard, then go Savage and pick the stock style that floats your boat.

If you plan on 'gutting' everything and swapping in aftermarket everything, the Stevens is the way to go IF you don't want a wonderful center feed D mag. The Timney is rated at 1.5lbs on the low end. Sometimes you can get them lighter. Just depends on the sear geometry which can vary a bit from action to action.

My F class rifles are built on Stevens (you can read about it by following the link in my sig line below). My tactical and hunting rifles are built on Savages.

Either way, swapping in barrels in a simple process. If you can get bolt heads, you can make one action shoot everything from the 17 Fireball to a mondo magnum.

You just need the various parts....

Jerry
 
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