tips for bedding a stevens 200 in 300 win mag

spenom

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I plan on bedding my stevens long action and wondered if any of you pro's out there have any good advice for a guy doing his first bedding job? I have heard about floating the safety? What does this mean? Any good links on this process? I picked up A "Miles Gilbert" glass bedding kit from wholesale sports and figure I will just follow the directions but any helpful hints are appreciated!

stevensproject15.jpg
 
I plan on bedding my stevens long action and wondered if any of you pro's out there have any good advice for a guy doing his first bedding job? I have heard about floating the safety? What does this mean? Any good links on this process? I picked up A "Miles Gilbert" glass bedding kit from wholesale sports and figure I will just follow the directions but any helpful hints are appreciated!

:D

I liken Savage rifles to the not-so-pretty girl who can cook, clean, and is a demon in the sack. The other guys with their high-maintainence women can laugh and sneer all they want but they just have no idea how good we Savage owners got it

Sorry for the slight diversion but I love that signature line of yours.......how very true.......my Savages are the best shootin rifles in my gun safe.:)

I'll go away now so you can discuss glass bedding.
 
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I did my first bedding job and a few others with that kit. The instructions are very good just follow them well, read them all before you start. Take your time, probably the best advice, if you rush you are likely to have a mess at some point, you will speed up for the next job.

BTW my first bedding job and channel opening gave my 243 an improvement of almost an inch at 100y to about .4''

about the safety ''floating'' only means it does not touch anything, so put coumpound only in the back of the receiver, not under the safety.

If you've got a staggerfeed, its very easy.

I a center feed, the first pillar is harder to do since the magazine has a part coming beside it.

very nice paint job!!

do a search for bedding pictures it will help you also
 
Spenom I am gonna gave to copy this mod as well! Let me know how it goes. I am in the same boat and really dont know where to start. Where did you get the kit? Does it give any decent instructions?

Ha Ha people are going to think we are twins or something! I got the kit at my local wholesale sports. It was $29.00 I think. They advertise the 28 page instructions as being really good. I am probably going to wait until the weekend to bed the rifle because, well no excuse, I am lazy!
 
That is a good idea! How much does the play in the fore end really affect actually shooting the gun if the field though? I can see how it would make for trouble off a bi-pod. Regardless now that I have seen this I will not forgive myself for not doing it so I will add it to the list. Although is the metal bar really necessary? I think the accriglass alone would stiffen it up just as much. I should add that I have sanded away the fore end of the stock so it really has alot more room to play.

stevens1.jpg
 
I have a bipod on mine and when it is on the bench even with the weight of the rifle on the bipod the barrel still floats freely! I cant really see it changing much at all. The complaints were centered around the old style stock which has since been improved. I would still fill the stock a bit as the guy did in that pic. If you are bedding the stock anyways why not?
 
I agree I will be filling the fore-end of the stock. I thnk I am going to leave out the metal rod though. "mlehtovaara" I saw your stevens 200 in the EE for sale? Why man? Why? :)
Now I know this is getting a little nerdy but does anyone know the torque specifications for the stevens 200? I want to torque the actions screws to the exact and propper inch pound amount.
 
Stiffening the forend is a good idea. I use wrapped carbon fibre tube from the local hobby shop and foamed Gorilla Glue as it is way lighter than steel and epoxy. For a stock like that I would use 2 full length tubes. Inlet them into the bottom of the barrel channel trying to keep a tight fit. I use a drywall bit on my spin saw but use what ever you have. It doesn't look like much material to remove anyways so even an Olfa knife would do. Scuff inside the stock channel and the outside of the rods slightly. I use a small metal brush on the spin saw for the stock channel. Clean and degrease the channel and rods. Put a good bead of glue down, lay the tubes in the channels you made, spritz the whole thing with water and the glue will start to foam up. If your tubes are loose the foam will lift them so you have to hold them in place. Tight is better. I then put a layer of wax paper on top of the glue, I usually cut a strip of wax paper first so it is a couple of inches wider and a couple of inches longer than the barrel. I then place the action, sprayed with silicone spray in the stock and tighten down. If you have already free floated the barrel just add a layer of thin cardboard stock on top of the wax paper before you replace the action. I use stationary store card stock. Let it dry over night and then trim any excess foam away with a knife. Very easy to sand and re free float if you mess up a little.I then put a super fine coat of epoxy over the foam when I have finished glass bedding and you are done. Very light and very strong. I have done a couple wood stocked guns, Winchester Featherweights, and 4 of those Butler Creek synthetics that were so flexible you could probably tie them in a knot and they are all ridgid as steel now.
Kim
 
Spenom it's not what you think! I just bought a new one in .223! LOL .270 is just to expensive for me to shoot and not as many options for reloading! I am gonna give the .223 a try and see what we can get on paper! If that dont work I will try .308 as there are a million options for 30 cal bullets out there. Like I said I originally bought the thing as a hunting rifle now I wanna see what I can do at the range and Im on a student bufget so .223 is ideal. I just hope I can get it to shoot as well as my .270!
 
Stiffening the forend is a good idea. I use wrapped carbon fibre tube from the local hobby shop and foamed Gorilla Glue as it is way lighter than steel and epoxy. For a stock like that I would use 2 full length tubes. Inlet them into the bottom of the barrel channel trying to keep a tight fit. I use a drywall bit on my spin saw but use what ever you have. It doesn't look like much material to remove anyways so even an Olfa knife would do. Scuff inside the stock channel and the outside of the rods slightly. I use a small metal brush on the spin saw for the stock channel. Clean and degrease the channel and rods. Put a good bead of glue down, lay the tubes in the channels you made, spritz the whole thing with water and the glue will start to foam up. If your tubes are loose the foam will lift them so you have to hold them in place. Tight is better. I then put a layer of wax paper on top of the glue, I usually cut a strip of wax paper first so it is a couple of inches wider and a couple of inches longer than the barrel. I then place the action, sprayed with silicone spray in the stock and tighten down. If you have already free floated the barrel just add a layer of thin cardboard stock on top of the wax paper before you replace the action. I use stationary store card stock. Let it dry over night and then trim any excess foam away with a knife. Very easy to sand and re free float if you mess up a little.I then put a super fine coat of epoxy over the foam when I have finished glass bedding and you are done. Very light and very strong. I have done a couple wood stocked guns, Winchester Featherweights, and 4 of those Butler Creek synthetics that were so flexible you could probably tie them in a knot and they are all ridgid as steel now.
Kim

This is a great tip! thanks I am going to go this route! I want to keep this gun as light as possible! I have no idea where to get carbon fiber tubes? Maybe "micheals" craft store here in Kamloops. If not I imagine like others have said fishing rod pieces or arrow shafts will work as well. Foaming gorrilla glue is a major weight saver! Thanks.
 
Spenom it's not what you think! I just bought a new one in .223! LOL .270 is just to expensive for me to shoot and not as many options for reloading! I am gonna give the .223 a try and see what we can get on paper! If that dont work I will try .308 as there are a million options for 30 cal bullets out there. Like I said I originally bought the thing as a hunting rifle now I wanna see what I can do at the range and Im on a student bufget so .223 is ideal. I just hope I can get it to shoot as well as my .270!

Well that makes sense. Well almost makes sense. Student budget means that I would keep the .270 as a meat getter as well because .223 is fun but it sure does not fill the freezer. I just finished my Electrical apprenticeship and I can honestly say during those 4 years I ate 6 mule deer. A nice roast beats the hell out of Kraft dinner. Granted hunting and butchering animals when a guy should be studying is another story.:) Out of curiosity what is the price difference between .223 and .270 ?
 
Spenom,

If you haven't looked at it already, have peek at the sticky at the top of the Gunsmithing forum.

lt details bedding a wooden stock but the process is pretty much the same. Lots of good photos and tips there.

Good luck.
 
Well that makes sense. Well almost makes sense. Student budget means that I would keep the .270 as a meat getter as well because .223 is fun but it sure does not fill the freezer. I just finished my Electrical apprenticeship and I can honestly say during those 4 years I ate 6 mule deer. A nice roast beats the hell out of Kraft dinner. Granted hunting and butchering animals when a guy should be studying is another story.:) Out of curiosity what is the price difference between .223 and .270 ?

Well I already have a 30-30 for a meat getter. And around here the cheapest .270 ammo is $22 + tax. I just bough 2 boxes of Rem UMC .223 for $24! So its almost half price if we are looking at cheap manufactured ammo. Now I dont expect the UMC to be all that accurate but want to break in the barrel, and have some fun tonight so I figured what the hell. Now the big difference is in reloading components. .223 brass is cheap and abundant. I can buy bulk bullets for $150/1000 and there is a hell of alot more options and availability than .270 bullets. And last but not least I will be using alot less powder as well. I'll report back tonight how she does for her first trip!
 
Well I already have a 30-30 for a meat getter. And around here the cheapest .270 ammo is $22 + tax. I just bough 2 boxes of Rem UMC .223 for $24! So its almost half price if we are looking at cheap manufactured ammo. Now I dont expect the UMC to be all that accurate but want to break in the barrel, and have some fun tonight so I figured what the hell. Now the big difference is in reloading components. .223 brass is cheap and abundant. I can buy bulk bullets for $150/1000 and there is a hell of alot more options and availability than .270 bullets. And last but not least I will be using alot less powder as well. I'll report back tonight how she does for her first trip!

I am excited to hear how the .223 shoots! Are you going to camo it as well?
 
I posted the results of the .223 in your other thread! With that cheap s**t UMC sub MOA 3 shot groups were happening and it was kinda breezy. I need to get a new scope and get it dialed in to start putting them in the bull. Obviously I wasnt too concerned today as I was just testing her out. I am going to be ordering a scope in the next few days, but I am not wanting to spend alot. Bushnell Banner 6-18 x 50 or 5-24 x 40 are what Im currently looking at.

And hell yes I am going to Camo it! Since this one is just gonna be for the range I'm thinking Red, Biege, and Black!!!!! Anyone?
 
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