Tips on sighting in iron sights?

Hi.
Just shoot them and find out where they hit.
If they are off, you will need the tools to move the sights. I don't know how, and by how much you can move those sights on your Zastava's.

I shoot mostly muzzle loaders and black powder cartridge rifles, with dove tailed sights. Therefore, the adjusting is quite easy.
The way I do it.
You will need a metric measuring tape. If you don't have one, buy a bilingual one. (metric and imperial) A range finder if the distance is not known, a calculator, and preferably a caliper.
Shoot at a target at 25 yards or meter. Confirm the distance with a range finder, or tape. (To the closest half meter.)

Measure the center of the group, horizontal and vertical to the point on the target, where you want them to hit.


Here is an example.
The range is exactly 25m.
Let say your holes group at 70mm high and 25mm to the left, of where you want them to be.
The distance from the front sight to the rear sight is 436mm.

Elevation: 70mm divided by 25000mm = 0.0028mm multiply by 436mm = 1.22mm. Your rear sight has to be lowered, or the front sight raised, by 1.22mm.
Windage: 25mm divided by 25000 mm = 0.001mm multiply by 436mm = 0.43mm. Your rear sight has to be moved to the to the right, or your front sight to the left, by 0.43mm.

That works for any open sights. Rifle and pistol.

If your elevation is within 2" (50mm) of your aim, leave it be for now.
Shoot the rifle at 100m and do the same as above. "Bullet offset / shooting distance x line of sight".
1 yard is 914mm. If your range is in yards.
1" is 25.4mm. If you use target paper with 1" squares.
1mm is 0.0393".

ww270win
 
First things first is to select the load you want the rifle sighted in for, once you have that start at very close range and verify groupings of no less than three rounds. Only once you are confident that the gun is consistently grouping, should you be moving sights.

You also have to know the ballistics associated with the round you're shooting. As an example, the old .303 british is intended to zero at 100m and 300m...So if I'm shooting at a 50m target and the poi is low, that is to be expected as the bullet is on the climb of the ballistic arc. However, 5.56mm zeros at 50m and 200m, so if I'm shooting at a 50m target and it's poi is low, that's no bueno...it should be "on" at 50m and verified "on" again at 200m.
 
I start close to be sure I’m on paper, 25-50y. Once I’m on paper and my windage is good and elevation is close I move out to my final distance, 100y usually. A proper target is helpful, especially at 100y. You need to be able to see your bullseye or aiming point and be able to repeatedly keep the sight picture the same, I generally use a 6 o’clock hold at 100y. So my point of aim is just above the front sight post and visible to the eye.
 
Choose the right target. Round bullseyes are difficult to group at 100 yards with iron sights. My preference is shooting at normal white typing paper on a dark background. You want the background black paper or something to indicate your hit and you need it as a light background you will not be able to discern your white typing paper. You judge the middle of target leaving the same amount of white on both sides of your front post.
 
Move the rear sight in the direction you want to move your shots on the target, and move the front sight in the opposite direction of where you want to move the shots on the target.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom