I really like titegroup for my 9mm with plated bullets but I'm playing with a new 38/357 for which I only have lead bullets. In my quest for a do-all powder I've done some research and on another forum they say titegroup is too "hot" and can cause leading problems. Anyone experience this or should I give it a go? TC
Titegroup = Leading Problem?
- Thread starter trky chsr
- Start date
blaser.306
CGN Regular
- Location
- Saskatoon , Sask
Sorry, re read with coffee soaked eyes ! As mentioned above leading has everything to do with "Boolit" fit (1-2 thou) over goove diameter , the type of lube used , whether the slug is a plain base or gas check type and alloy strength ( hardness ) I am shooting a 130 gr Lyman truncated cone plain base boolit that has been water quenched out of my 38 super race gun and it shows no leading.
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I used Titegroup excusivly for our .38 sp Cowboy rounds (less than 700 fps) until, someone getting out of reloading gave me a 12 lb keg of 7625 that is. Never had a leading problem and I got consistent results with one grain less powder. I've found that the Titegroup is also a lot cleaner burning and would allow for longer intervals between cleaning sesions. I will be switching back to Titegroup when the 7625 is all used up.
My opinion.
The most important factor on whether or not a barrel collects lead, is the condition of the barrel, meaning the microscopical condition of the barrel, not visible with the naked eye.
At one time this was often discussed. Various methods of polishing a barrel so they wouldn't lead were given, varrying from a very mild abbrassive compound to simply firing 300, or so, jacketed bullets in a new barrel.
Remember the old days when good gunsmiths working on pricey barrels and rifles, would always hand lap the barrels? Those rifles probably wouldn't be used with cast bullets, but if they were they would be immune from collecting lead.
The most important factor on whether or not a barrel collects lead, is the condition of the barrel, meaning the microscopical condition of the barrel, not visible with the naked eye.
At one time this was often discussed. Various methods of polishing a barrel so they wouldn't lead were given, varrying from a very mild abbrassive compound to simply firing 300, or so, jacketed bullets in a new barrel.
Remember the old days when good gunsmiths working on pricey barrels and rifles, would always hand lap the barrels? Those rifles probably wouldn't be used with cast bullets, but if they were they would be immune from collecting lead.
What are you loading youe bullets for? IDPA, IPSC, Plinking? How heavy are your bullets and what gun are you using them in. If its a new Ruger check out the cylinder throats. My Ruger GP-100 had three cylinders tighter than .356 and three that were tighter than .357. I had them reamed out to .358 to ensure accuracy and remove one cause of leading ie undersized bullets. What diameter are your bullets? Are they gas checked.
I don't use Titegroup in .38spl/.357Mad loadings but I do use Titegroup in .40cal and haven't experienced any leading I would attribute to the powder being to hot when using lead bullets. Personally I think you will have other issues that might cause you leading problems before I would worry about the powder burning to hot. With more information we might be able to help you more.
Take Care
Bob
Just paper punching with the 38/357. I have a S&W 686. As for bullets I am currently using DRG 158 and 148gr. I've had good results with Bullseye in the 38 but really crappy in the 9 with 147 and 124gr Aim plated projectiles. Just need to play around some more! TC
handofzeus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Trout Creekish Ontario.
I use 3.4grns Titegroup with 158Gr. DRG SWC and never had a leading issue. I only shoot 150rnds per session and scrub the bore with a bronze brush after, sometimes using Hoppe's and sometimes Ed's Red. The load feels like <.357 and >.38+P to me.
