Titewad 10/22 accurazation?

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

Yeah funny title.


So I'm wondering what you can do on a ruger 10/22 carbine to increase the accuracy?

My Dad has a older 10/22 bought it brand new.

16 inch barrel isn't the most accurate.

I know that I saw soewhre that by screwing a cz? barrel on increased the accuracy.

Any ideas?

 

[Potashminer]

There was a guy (from Australia ?) who did just that - how to get better groups from Ruger 10-22 - for cheap - layers of foil tape along each side at rear - inside the stock - to eliminate side-to-side slop; a few wraps of electricians vinyl tape around barrel to create a "bedding point" and to centre the barrel in the forearm, while also giving "up" pressure on that barrel for the V-clamp attachment; filed out underside of the barrel band so that there was no contact with the barrel. I do not recall if he did anything with the trigger at all. I did all three of the mods listed. If I remember correctly was total of 13 layers of foil tape to eliminate that receiver slop - 6 layers one side and 7 layers the other side - receiver is now a snug, just barely, sliding fit, back into the factory stock. That one has an aperture rear sight - my main "cheap" learner rifle to try to learn to use that sort of sight.

Reflecting on what he came up with, Ruger 10-22 from factory has one action screw to hold barrelled receiver to stock - so left/ right slop at rear of receiver is only to be controlled by the fit to that stock, there. The V-clamp on the barrel is to the bottom, I think - so the tape wrap is helping to counter-act that pull? And filing out the barrel band just makes the barrel like "free" to do what it wants in the air. I think. I am not really good enough with aperture sight to prove those made it more accurate or not - would not have been the first afternoon spent at "busy work"...

FYI - my 10-22 was bought new by me in late 1970's - the older carbine styling. Without dismantling for accurate measuring, I would say this barrel is about 18.5". For some years, it wore a heavy barrel and was in a "target" type stock bought in a clam shell "kit" at Canadian Tire - with scope, I do not think that improved much, at all - is now back with original barrel, but the stock is a NOS, not the original. Not certain that barrel length, per se, has much to do with "accurate" or not. At least on this one, the barrel tenon is a smooth shank, barrel more or less slides into the hole in receiver held in with a V-clamp - so to "screw in" another barrel would need fussy alignment, then perhaps precision drill or ream, and then tap or internal threading, to get some threads into that receiver. Would be way over my head to try that.

 

[turbo_bird]

This is old, but lots of good info. It's too bad the pictures are gone, but post #81 on the last page has a link to a pdf with pictures intact.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/super-stock-the-squawsach-and-sawdust-way.144765/
Kristian

 

[regulate34]

Drop a aftermarket bbl in it and a trigger. Best gains for the money.

 

[Southcountryguy]

I messed with mine continually for a long time investing a hundred or more hours to find you can’t make a steak from hamburger. Maybe hamburger steak but still… as mentioned dropping a new barrel on it is probably the cheapest fix to make them shoot. A trigger upgrade is worth the cash as well.

Let us know how you make out if you try any mods.

 

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

This is old, but lots of good info. It's too bad the pictures are gone, but post #81 on the last page has a link to a pdf with pictures intact.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/super-stock-the-squawsach-and-sawdust-way.144765/
Kristian

Thanks!

 

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

I messed with mine continually for a long time investing a hundred or more hours to find you can’t make a steak from hamburger. Maybe hamburger steak but still… as mentioned dropping a new barrel on it is probably the cheapest fix to make them shoot. A trigger upgrade is worth the cash as well.

Let us know how you make out if you try any mods.

What brands of barrels for the 10/22 would be good to look at??

 

[Potashminer]

I can not help with barrel brand recommendations, but would suggest that you first shoot, and then stash some of the same ammo, with the existing barrel - then do the swap and take it out shooting - to satisfy yourself that the money that you spent on the new barrel made a difference for you. Else, all you will have to show is a "new" barrel, and a story how much better you think it shoots. As was written / posted elsewhere - "the holes in the target do not lie"

 

[Southcountryguy]

What brands of barrels for the 10/22 would be good to look at??

I personally only have experience with IBI on 10/22’s. McGowen are also popular and less money. I posted this target on another thread but it is what the rifle is now capable of. Of course this is the best target of the day. I have been able to repeat it but usually my scores avg 95. 50m, lapua center-X.



With original barrel a 50m target looked like a choke pattern test for a shotgun….

 

[horseman2]

With two Ruger 10/22 rifles that are dedicated to different events, this is what I have tried.

Speed Steel: Installed a 16" McGowan barrel with a match chamber. Too many FTF and FTE so returned to the factory barrel.
They was really no improvement in accuracy with what I was using but higher grades of ammo was not tested.
Installed a Timney trigger adjusted to 3 pounds but also to improve the magazine drop.
The main cause of interruptions now is a round failing to negotiate the ramp or an empty getting in the way.
This rifle will function with Blazer, Thunderbolts, CCI SV, CCI MiniMags . . . everything I have tried.

Target: When I got a Dlask heavy barrel, it found a home. A Laminated stock was installed. A KIDD trigger kit got the trigger down to 3 pounds with the lightest spring.
A Dlask compensator was added. The sides of the stock were treated with the foil tape with improvement . . . removed the slop. Probably 6 on one side and 7 on the other as previously mentioned and suggested by Potashminer.
Tape was also added to the fore end of the stock but just enough so the barrel had a place to rest.
A supply of Federal Match was tried but the five 10-shot groups averaged 2.1, 2.1, 2.2, 2.2 and 2.4 for five different lots.
Tapped into my source of Eley Match and Tenex Biathlon and the higher velocity is far more accurate . . . some close to 1" but nothing over 2 inches.
In the last competiton with Eley Tenex Biathlon with a published velocity of 1053 - Chronograph showed that figure to be about 60 fps slower.
There was not one failure with this ammo approaching 140 rounds in total in 100 Metre competition.
Tried once at 200 metres but the groups moved for every target with 10 shots on each. Won't try this again without wind flags.

It has to be a labor of love as long as improvements can be seen for I would hate to see no advantages.

 

[357Maximum]

I can not help with barrel brand recommendations, but would suggest that you first shoot, and then stash some of the same ammo, with the existing barrel - then do the swap and take it out shooting - to satisfy yourself that the money that you spent on the new barrel made a difference for you. Else, all you will have to show is a "new" barrel, and a story how much better you think it shoots. As was written / posted elsewhere - "the holes in the target do not lie"

This plus clean barrel and action first, put the best glass on it that you have that's suitable for a 22, preferable a scope with AO.

Use a proper rest .

Try as many different types of ammo as possible. Even aftermarket barrels have their favorite ammo.

Log onto Rimfire Central, lot's of good tips and tricks there.

Update on thing at a time, ie: trigger. Not trigger and barrel at the same time

Some factory barrels shoot very well with their favorite ammo.

If nothing else shoot a couple thousand rounds thru the gun , you and the gun may both become better shooters.

 

[Kayser Sose]

Heh heh;

I procured a Green Mountain 18.5" bull barrel, installed it and spent some time sanding out the stock to fit it so there was a nice float all the way down.

I then had a look and a think about how to bed the action, using popsicle sticks and fine woodworking skills: i did not want to do a crappy job. Trimmed and added wood so that the action was nicely fitting in the stock, wanting to use only a skim of bedding material, plus more than a skim to bed the barrel...

Then i bedded it all, using JB Weld so that most of the barrel was floated, for about 2.5" from the chamber end....

Unfortunately Fluid Film was a poor mold release, so now my 10/22 is all glued up solid! Im waiting to see if it comes apart more easily in time and use: i really dont want to beat it apart! Its a good looking gun in my opinion.

My brick of a 10/22 is a fair shooter out to 100yds, 3-4" with my 159.99$ scope Within 2 feet at 200, I'm happy.

Wanting a better scope on it, its either the scope or the shooter, heh heh. There is very little variance within the rifle, as it is a solid unit, for now.

Haven't cleaned it in a while tho

 

[turbo_bird]

This is about as good as I've ever managed with my 10/22, 5 rounds of CCI Standard at 50 yards with sandbags.

I seem to spend more time shooting it on crown land at longer ranges on steel targets than I do paper punching at the range though.

Factory everything, but it's the heavy barrel target version. I shortened the barrel to 18.5" and recrowned it, trigger job as per the rimfire central link I posted earlier, bedded the action with aluminum tape, free floated the barrel, squared up the bolt and tightened up the head space to about .045" or so with a file and machinist square, then emery cloth to finish it, a slight radius at the back of the bolt to make it cycle a bit more reliably with standard velocity ammo, and a $150 Simmons scope on the factory rail. I did swap the factory plastic trigger group housing for the aluminum one that was in an older 10/22, but it's all Ruger parts still.
Kristian