Tnw mg34

Not as good as the real thing. Better than nothing. There are five problems:

- sometimes don't run right at all and require trips to TNW or advanced self troubleshooting
- trigger pull is awful, requires a kit from TNW to fix
- heavily overpriced (seen one in the EE recently for a whopping $7G)
- 8mm surplus is hard to find and expensive and Norwegian .308 conversions are rare
- getting parts out of the States is next to impossible thanks to ITAR

Besides that sure they're great.
 
If anyone has one of the older TNW MG34's you need:

TNW Lighter Trigger Pull Kit
--------------------------
Which should include:
-1 ring clip
-1 notched washer
-1 sear assembly
-1 trigger bar
-1 roller with pin

It was very easy to change out the parts that were required to make the trigger pull go from like 40 pounds, to 2... except for the small bit of milling/dremeling and drilling that one has to do to the trigger where you have to add a second roller. (Not impossible, but drilling the hole in the exact correct spot for the roller pin was a #####!)

I also bought new ejector pins from TNW which I found still didn't seem to be long enough to eject the empties correctly..

So I had a friend get me a few BRP Corp MG34 Bolt Tune up kits. These include a longer ejector pin which you have to stone the correct angle at the rear tail of the pin to match your original ejector pin (this I find is the tough part). This kit also includes a new extractor spring and roller clips which are also very handy.

PS: It never hurts to have spare/extra/new springs for the entire gun.

It also helps to have the original MG34 tools, such as the extractor tool and MG wrench. I think BRP may sell a roller removal tool too which would be REALLY handy! Completely taking apart the TNW MG34 bolt is complete Voodoo, until you figure out how to do that too! (Requires a LOONG ratchet socket, a strong wooden tabletop, and strong hands)

The last thing you really need for these guns is some good lube! Best to use the recommended TW25B grease.

Make sure your rifle is super clean, use good FMJ ammo with good condition belts, lots of lube, and LOTS of trial and error.

One of these days, I want to make a YouTube video to help with TNW MG34 troubleshooting etc.... Someday...

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7367&PN=1 (This is a great link to read over)
 
Last edited:
I should also mention that while you can adapt an MG34 to a 42 Lafette tripod it's improper, and involves drilling your barrel jacket. I was looking at bidding on an original 34 Lafette on eBay recently but it kind of exceeded my budget. Went for around $5,500.

Anyone know where I can get an AA tripod?
 
When I had one, there were a few issues I had to solve. Firstly, the original booster cone was too tight for semi-auto closed-bolt operation with some ammo types, so I had to machine a couple different booster cones to get the gun to run reliably with different milsurp ammo. Also, the ejector plate was not installed right and the commercial screws stood proud, fouling the feed arm. I had to replace them with better screws.

there was also a significant break-in period. It ran a LOT better after a frew hundred rounds as the receiver wore in. They are too tight from the factory. Be aware, these guns only run right when sloppy wet with oil. Oil them until you think it's too much, then double that. Only then will it run right.

It was a fun gun to own that I eventually sold because ammo was scarce and it had increased in value to the point I got tempted and cashed in.
 
AK said:
I should also mention that while you can adapt an MG34 to a 42 Lafette tripod it's improper, and involves drilling your barrel jacket. I was looking at bidding on an original 34 Lafette on eBay recently but it kind of exceeded my budget. Went for around $5,500.
Click to expand...

You can purchase an HK MG3 Lafette Tripod, usually for around $500-$1000, and there is an adapter for it which replaces the MG42 attaching point with one that just uses the rear AA mounting point on the MG34 barrel jacket. It works quite well, even though it's not period "korrekt"... then again, a Semi Auto MG34 isn't true to form either! :D

AK said:
Anyone know where I can get an AA tripod?
Click to expand...

I got my from a WTB ad on the EE... ;)

Claven2 said:
When I had one, there were a few issues I had to solve. Firstly, the original booster cone was too tight for semi-auto closed-bolt operation with some ammo types, so I had to machine a couple different booster cones to get the gun to run reliably with different milsurp ammo. Also, the ejector plate was not installed right and the commercial screws stood proud, fouling the feed arm. I had to replace them with better screws.

there was also a significant break-in period. It ran a LOT better after a frew hundred rounds as the receiver wore in. They are too tight from the factory. Be aware, these guns only run right when sloppy wet with oil. Oil them until you think it's too much, then double that. Only then will it run right.

It was a fun gun to own that I eventually sold because ammo was scarce and it had increased in value to the point I got tempted and cashed in.
Click to expand...

I believe there are 2 different, original sized, booster cone orifices. One, the 9.5mm orificed cone, is to be used for original WW2 blank ammo, whilst the 11mm orificed booster cone, is for standard WW2 German 8mm MG ammo. Though I am sure there are other sizes out there too.

You have the best idea so far. Making different sizes for different ammo, kinda like the "Shooters Kits" for G43's etc. A person should want their MG34 to just eject brass properly WITHOUT beating up all the expensive parts in the gun. This is definitely not an amateur project though I presume...?

Also, I make no guarantees that the booster cones should be one size or another, only that this is what has been observed to be the case with many TNWs... Please do NOT go drilling out booster cones on my word!

Ejector plates sometimes have screws or rivets. Mine is riveted, and I had to stone them flush with the top of the ejector plate too so that they weren't proud. Ejector plate screws can be found at a few different sources, or some guys have luck matching them at a "Nut and Bolt" shop and then trimming them down/shaping etc... Riveting, and then trimming the rivet tails in the bolt race way etc, might be the easiest option.

I have tried many different types of lube. Gun oil doesn't seem to cut it, and Lithium grease is close, but I think TW25B is the way to go... unless someone has a more readily available suggestion?? I'm all ears.

And yes, these MG34's almost beg for a .308 conversion... for ease of finding quality, non corrosive FMJ.
 
Last edited:
The main issue with these guns is the BATF requirement that they be closed-bolt. Frankly, the closed-bolt mod to the MG34 bolt is not very reliable and is somewhat fragile with a flimsy sear added as an afterthought.

If we could get non-US made guns based on the semi-auto receiver from TNW, but open bolt using the original bolt assembly, we'd have a winner. Sadly though ,the lab would likely find some excuse to prohibit it, even if the receiver was never full-auto and auto parts didn't fit the lower. They (the lab) seem to be on a quest to eliminate open-bolt guns from the Canadian lexicon.

Presumably open-bolts are more evil and dangerous for law-abiding citizens to own.
 
Claven2 said:
The main issue with these guns is the BATF requirement that they be closed-bolt. Frankly, the closed-bolt mod to the MG34 bolt is not very reliable and is somewhat fragile with a flimsy sear added as an afterthought.

If we could get non-US made guns based on the semi-auto receiver from TNW, but open bolt using the original bolt assembly, we'd have a winner. Sadly though ,the lab would likely find some excuse to prohibit it, even if the receiver was never full-auto and auto parts didn't fit the lower. They (the lab) seem to be on a quest to eliminate open-bolt guns from the Canadian lexicon.

Presumably open-bolts are more evil and dangerous for law-abiding citizens to own.
Click to expand...


They sure did hate my BD38.... :(
 
I recently bought a MG42 AA tripod from a site in the US that would ship to Canada. Got it in about 3 weeks, cleared customs no problem. Total cost was about $300cdn. A month later decided to get 2 more but this time order was cancelled because they said they just received a letter from the Cdn govt with a list of NO GO items and it was on it? They had about 15 left when I first ordered, now all gone. Also tried ordering one from Europe but it happens to be one of the items that they cannot export. I have 5 of the Yugo AA tripods and a WW2 MG34 tripod. They go with my 2 MG34s and 3 1919A4s, they have the proper mounting adapters. The WW2 one is a collector piece. Like the Lafette the AA tripods are going to be very hard to find now. I do have one lafette and it has the 34 adapter mount.

Re trigger pull, I was lucky to source a new TNW bolt and that immediately solved the trigger pull problem.

Yes, ammo is very important. I've got some lacquered coated ammo that runs like a dream. The Yugo surplus runs ok but pretty sure it's not hot enough, I get rds that get jammed going in. Sometimes I get 40-50 rds with no problems then a jam.

Yes, oil it really well.

A MG34 for sale at CT would be something to see. Not going to happen here in Van.

Pretty sure the new 34s from TNW will run smoothly, can't be any worse than the original ones from Marstar.
 
Last edited:
You have FIVE AA tripods!? Sell me one. Please.

And $300 for a Lafette of any kind is tantamount to robbery! Nice score.

FWIW 42 Yugo Lafettes are at Marstar for $1500. :p
 
I was just in the Canadian tire in cold lake alberta tonight. Besides the tavors they had an MG34 in there also. Asking 5k, really expanded the hunting, guns, and ammo section there
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom