To Shim or not to Shim - Socom

PALoMine

PALoMine

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Hey all,

First off thanks to all who provided reference material in the above stickys.... Really great stuff for someone just starting out in the M14(ish) platform.

Although I should really go to a hungry clinic.... I stubbornly like to tinker and learn my own s4it....

Below pictured is my New Socom's gas-stuff and would like some advise on if this should be shimmed....
2ptz90z.jpg


Also a small screw prevented me from taking the gas ring off, I since have removed it to disassemble....
bhycev.jpg


Can anyone fill me in on the function of this screw?

Lastly the gun reads 7.62 x51.... without reading about head-spacing first I shot approx 50 rounds of winchester 308 thru her and have some really faint wearing on the bolt (shiny bits), nothing too concerning but was hoping someone might supply and image of a bolt that shows head-space/ bolt fit wearing that is at the concerning level so I can keep an eye out for problem areas...


I'll hang up and listen,
Cheers,
 
The faint wear isn't wear. It's just brass coming off the case. No big deal. 7.62NATO and .308 Win are interchangeable. Despite the nonsense seen on-line.
The wee set screw keeps the front sight in place. You can adjust windage by moving the front sight, but it's better to adjust the rear sight only. Front sights get moved in the opposite direction you want the group to go. Rear sights in the direction you want the group to go. However, the set screw is more about changing the height of the blade, should you need to, than anything else.
 
PALoMine said:
Hey all,
....

Lastly the gun reads 7.62 x51.... without reading about head-spacing first I shot approx 50 rounds of winchester 308 thru her and have some really faint wearing on the bolt (shiny bits), nothing too concerning but was hoping someone might supply and image of a bolt that shows head-space/ bolt fit wearing that is at the concerning level so I can keep an eye out for problem areas...

I'll hang up and listen,
Cheers,
Click to expand...

There is much to be said for breaking in any machine. It used to be that a car engine had to be run at varying speeds for the first few thousand miles. Modern cars have that worked out beforehand, but guns are not as highly refined. So, as you shoot any rifle, you are nudging and pushing and wearing the parts into their eventual happy place. Places where the finish is worn down to smooth metal, or where the empties rap against the exterior are just what the shooter needs to see to understand how the gun is functioning. Don't sweat it.
 
Thanks Sunray and maple....

Does that gas system need a shim?
That is the position when tightened....

Anybody who has a pic of wear-patterns on a replaced "out-of-spec." bolt..... +10 to karma.... just for knowledge sake, as I mentioned not too worried about my own...

Very strange place to put that sight adjustment screw.... not very practical although as the OP stated better to adjust from the rear....
 
Yes you need a shim or two....Tactical Teacher on here has some. The gas locking ring should start to get tight about the 4:00 - 5: 00 position and be really snug at the 6:00 position. My Socom had the screw on the sights sticking out abit like yours when I first got it. But now after threading and unthreading it the screw now sits in deep enough so it doesn't need removing when I remove the gas locking ring. Try that and tightening it in a bit more if you can .
Its better to get a rough zero by moving your front sight and have the rear centered . A lot of the Chinese rear sights need replacing...try and get a set of Garand rear sights.
 
PALoMine said:
Very strange place to put that sight adjustment screw.... not very practical although as the OP stated better to adjust from the rear....
Click to expand...

On my Socom, the front sight was way over to one side just like yours and strangely, the sights were way off. Just for the heck of it, I centred the front sight...and suddenly the gun shot straight to center. I wouldn't rule out giving that a try, although for fine adjustment, the rear sight is best.
 
When I chopped the barrel on one of my Norcs and made a shorty I had to grind about 0.015" of the screw head so that I could unscrew the gas cylinder lock to allow the lock to rotate past the cylinder on its first rotation.

Did it with a Dremel, and touched up with cold blue. Problem alleviated.
 
Actually, its better to align the front sight with a "zeroed" rear sight... leave your rear windage adjustment for.... windage adjustment. I noticed my stock front sight had to go way to the left, usually indicating an over indexed barrel. Bought and installed a springfield brake with sight base, voila sights lined up perfect. For shims, I hear Tactical Teacher is our best source.
 
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