Tokarev owners - How do you clean your gun after shooting corrosive ammo?

WRH

WRH

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Mainly, how involved is the cleaning process? A fella at the range let me shoot his and I'm interested in getting myself one.

However, I don't always have a lot time to clean immediately after the range (my daughters are usually climbing all over me when I get back and the wife is climbing the walls). A rough idea of the cleaning process might give another gun a home.

Thanks.
 
lots of hot water - same as for any corrosive ammo- it's well covered on here or get the convertible and shoot 9mm - then it's the standard cleaning for 9mm
there's also an application involving windex[
 
lol Sounds exactly like my return from shooting :D
It strips easy Sir. In a minute you can have it broke right down.

An old cooking pot with hot water, throw all the upper slide and slide parts in.

Wipe it all off with a rag then just soak it in oil and clean as normal.

Very easy to maintain.
 
Gagnon sports in oshawa, On had some new manufactured 9mm tokarev for around 300 very similar to 1911 in maintenance
 
It's the same cleaning as for black powder. Hot water and a dash of dish or laundry detergent. The idea of the detergent is to remove the oil contaminated fouling which might otherwise resist the water.

Because of the way that the hammer group comes out the gun is silly easy to strip and clean really well. The only issue with the hammer group is the pins are loose can fall out if you hold the hammer block sideways. So do handle the hammer group fairly carefully when it's not in the frame. The rest can be dunked and brushed easily. A nylon bristle brush for the bore and an old toothbrush for the rest is all you need. Once brushed clean rinse in running hot water to remove the soap residue then set on a cookie grill or similar to let the heat from the water dry the metal.

Now this is one time where it's just dandy to use WD40. Squirt the hammer group down with it to flush out the water. Then let it drain over a paper towel or similar. At the same time flush the trigger bow and inside areas clear of water with another shot of the WD40. Wipe away most of it with a paper towel poked and pushed around. I like to finish up with some gun oil dribbled into a hollow then use the toothbrush to spread it around into all the nooks and crannies as well as the outside and in the rails. Then wipe away any excess. Do the same on the slide but pay attention to flushing the water out of the firing pin channel. Poke the little straw into the firing pin hole and flush it until WD is coming out the striker end of the firing pin. Shake or blow it clear. No need for oil in there with this treatment.

The hammer group gets a dunk and swish around in the soapy water, a hot water rinse, WD40 flush to clear the water then let it drain. An aerosol can of oil for this case is perfect. Instead of the little straw just give it a nozzle only cone shaped quick spritz or two from an aerosol oil can to oil. it. Let drain for a few minutes then pop it back into the frame.

All in all with a little practice you should be able to do all this and set the parts out cleaned, flushed and oiled and sitting out for some "safety drying within 10 to 12 minutes. OK, maybe 15 at most. After an hour of safety drying the re-assembly will take about 1 minute tops.
 
You can go see my videos on youtube for dissasembly - reassembly , look for "johnny x" videos..., I don't use hot water for cleaning my Toks, G96 oil works well, if you don't have the time right after a shooting session, just spray G96 everywhere inside, it can wait a day or two, sometime I just put the entire gun in a container full of motor oil awaiting to be cleaned...
 
same as my SKS, i just use Hoppes nitro solvent on a brass bore brush, and a coat of oil using patches. never had a single pit or anything, still like new.
 
m-134 said:
same as my SKS, i just use Hoppes nitro solvent on a brass bore brush, and a coat of oil using patches. never had a single pit or anything, still like new.
Click to expand...

Same as me. Mosins, SVT-40, SKS. Hoppes #9 and a light coat of oil. Lots of shooting corrosive; no problems.
 
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