What would be the proper stone or file to use for making modifications to the profile of a Ruger 77 MarkII trigger and sear? If the ideal is something specialized, is there a common substitute more readily available for working the flat surface?
Tools - trigger work
- Thread starter Grizzlypeg
- Start date
Im not a gun smith but have reworked a few triggers.
The steel is hardened (was on my triggers) i used a diamond file and that cuts thru to the softer steel then wet and dry paper wraped around smooth steel flat bar to finish. i also installed a set screw so i can ajust the trigger pull.
the screw comes out and touches the back of the trigger and i can ajust it in the notch.
I did some major metal removal tho maby a stone is better for light work.
then i get it rehardened. (my buddy does that part)
The steel is hardened (was on my triggers) i used a diamond file and that cuts thru to the softer steel then wet and dry paper wraped around smooth steel flat bar to finish. i also installed a set screw so i can ajust the trigger pull.
the screw comes out and touches the back of the trigger and i can ajust it in the notch.
I did some major metal removal tho maby a stone is better for light work.
then i get it rehardened. (my buddy does that part)
It doesn't really mater what material you use, it could be diamond, ceramic, hard oil stones like arkansas, or high quality sand paper over a hard backer. The key is that it cuts smoothly and is geometrically stable (won't change shape during the duration of the cuts)
I would not want to affect the profile, that is a major re-work and can quickly get out of hand. A basic rule is that you don't want to work on the hammer at all (unless you really know your stuff) Polishing the trigger will often get you a much improved result without affecting the geometry or crossing a red line. Cutting through the hard stuff into the soft stuff is also a bad idea, first the hard stuff is your wear layer, and the soft stuff will change, possibly getting unsafe, and also possibly gall or hang up.
I would not want to affect the profile, that is a major re-work and can quickly get out of hand. A basic rule is that you don't want to work on the hammer at all (unless you really know your stuff) Polishing the trigger will often get you a much improved result without affecting the geometry or crossing a red line. Cutting through the hard stuff into the soft stuff is also a bad idea, first the hard stuff is your wear layer, and the soft stuff will change, possibly getting unsafe, and also possibly gall or hang up.
"...think of this advice..." I'd be leery of any internet page that does say who the guy is and what experience he has. You may want to considered changing the springs only, first. That'll drop the trigger pull. Wolff Springs has a 'rifle tune up' pack for $10US. Comes with a striker and sear spring. Add the W's.
.gunsprings.com/RifleShotgun/Ruger_RsNF.html#77
If you do opt to do anything else, don't use any files. Stones only. All you need to do is polish the mating surfaces, not remove any metal.
.gunsprings.com/RifleShotgun/Ruger_RsNF.html#77
If you do opt to do anything else, don't use any files. Stones only. All you need to do is polish the mating surfaces, not remove any metal.
Thanks, I'll look into the Wolf springs.
