Torque specs for Bushnell Elite 4500 4-16X50

"torque specs" are usually for the screws on the bases or the ring mounts - look there - not sure there is such a thing as a "torque spec" for a scope?? Normally there will be an inch-pound required for the screws that hold the base to the receiver, a different (or same) inch pounds for the cross bolt that clamps the rings to the bases, and then a third "spec" for the screws that fasten the ring tops to the base part of the rings. Is similar (but not identical) for vertically split rings. The "holding power" of the screws likely will vary if the screw is going into aluminum or into steel - also will vary with the diameter and thread per inch - so is different one to the other.

By and large those little #6 and #8 screws - going "tighter" is not necessarily going to have them hold better - the screw threads are likely engineered to stretch a bit under proper torque - going too loose does not impart any stretch - going tighter might permanently deform the thread or strip it - either case results in inadequate "pull down" power for that fastener.
 
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Agreed. You're torquing the rings to the scope not the scope to the rings. Each manufacturer of rings has it's on specs. Most are around 20-25 inch/lbs. Some can go as high as 60 and as low as 15. and the torque of the rings to the base will be closer to 45-60 in/lbs.
 
I have Leupold PRW 2 rings. crossbolt 25 lbs / rings 25 lbs.

I'm not agree with your conclusions. I have also a Vortex crossfire scope and they do not recommand to overtorque the rings on the tube more than 15-18 lbs even if the rings can be torque at 25 lbs.

I experienced what i'm saying a couples of years ago. My gunsmith crushed my Vortex Diamondback because he overtorqued at 25 lbs the rings on the scope tube. The rings can be torque up to 25 lbs but the scope tube was design to be torque at 15-18 lbs.

That's why i need this information for my Bushnell to avoid reliving the same experience.
 
Torque specs are determined by the ring manufacturer or by the gun. Though the gun man. and ring man. will give you a broad range and just ultimately say don't exceed, and we are not responsible. Tiny amount of blue loc. T. and 15-18 if you can't find specs that say greater is fine. Are you shooting a cannon? Clean the threads with a little alcohol or whiskey to make sure there is no gun oil and there is no need to crush the crap out of things. If your dealing with a Barrett or magnum semi-auto, they got a little different recoil. But if your tools are good and you keep threads clean, High torque is not needed. You can easily strip out aluminum or cheap rings. Cheers
 
I have Leupold PRW 2 rings. crossbolt 25 lbs / rings 25 lbs.

I'm not agree with your conclusions. I have also a Vortex crossfire scope and they do not recommand to overtorque the rings on the tube more than 15-18 lbs even if the rings can be torque at 25 lbs.

I experienced what i'm saying a couples of years ago. My gunsmith crushed my Vortex Diamondback because he overtorqued at 25 lbs the rings on the scope tube. The rings can be torque up to 25 lbs but the scope tube was design to be torque at 15-18 lbs.

That's why i need this information for my Bushnell to avoid reliving the same experience
Bushnell would be replacing a lot of scopes without an over-torque disclaimer. Regardless they would just ask if you can prove the calibration of your tool.
If you need to torque to higher specs. they will tell you to. But if you really want to exceed industry standards. Spin the wheel and take your chances.
BTW your gunsmith owes you a new scope for his incompetence.
 
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Here the note on the Vortex manual owner


Note: after aligning the reticle, tighten and torque the rings screws. Vortex Optics recommends a torque setting of 15-
18 in/lbs on the ring screws. DO NOT use a thread locking
compound on the threads. Thread locking agents lubricate
the threads, which can increase the applied torque.
 
Also, check the number of turns the screw goes into the receiver , full, half and quarter turns without the base and then again with the base. There should be at least a half turn less with the base other wise, you think it is tight but has just bottomed in the threaded hole. I have mounted a number of scopes and had to reduce the length of some screws. This is mainly important in the front screws , the back might just protrude enough to mark the bolt.
 
the torque of the rings to the base will be closer to 45-60 in/lbs.
Yikes !

A Ruger 10-22 is a recommended 10-15 for base screws.

45-60 I'm surprised there's no reciever damage or fastener damage on those tiny 6-48.

I don't think I've ever exceeded 18 on an aluminum reciever or 22 on steel reciever for base screws.

Lubed up with purple loc tite it's easy to think it's not tight
 
Bu
Here the note on the Vortex manual owner


Note: after aligning the reticle, tighten and torque the rings screws. Vortex Optics recommends a torque setting of 15-
18 in/lbs on the ring screws. DO NOT use a thread locking
compound on the threads. Thread locking agents lubricate
the threads, which can increase the applied torque.
Are you asking about a Bushnell scope and then referencing Vortex specs while ignoring the recommendation of the ring manufacturer?
Sorry but I can't follow that and provide any reasonable assistance to your original question other than Bushnell will answer your question directly if asked. Be prepared to answer point of purchase questions ect. I agree about loc t and lubricity but at those torque specs its irrelevant unless over torqueing. Lock T white has high Teflon and low cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) Blue T is almost neutral Teflon and low cyanoacrylate. The Teflon in blue is a release agent so you can disassemble. DON'T EVER USE RED Teflon, it can easily become non reversible. Even though it comes with the Wheeler scope mounting kit don't use it. If you don't want to use Lock T that's perfectly cool. You don't need to. But there is no reason to torque to levels that your talking about on most guns. That said there is a reason it comes in the scope mounting kit. Just sayin.. Contact Bushnell directly. They are the only source that can answer your question. You have a valid question, they should be very happy to provide a detailed answer and perhaps update their packaging information. Cheers
 
There’s a reason sooo many scopes on the EE have ring rash or whatever other creative term is used. Cheap rings and over tightened screws. It’s inch pounds also. 15-18 inch pounds as mentioned by others for ring screws.
 
Bu

Are you asking about a Bushnell scope and then referencing Vortex specs while ignoring the recommendation of the ring manufacturer?
Sorry but I can't follow that and provide any reasonable assistance to your original question other than Bushnell will answer your question directly if asked. Be prepared to answer point of purchase questions ect. I agree about loc t and lubricity but at those torque specs its irrelevant unless over torqueing. Lock T white has high Teflon and low cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) Blue T is almost neutral Teflon and low cyanoacrylate. The Teflon in blue is a release agent so you can disassemble. DON'T EVER USE RED Teflon, it can easily become non reversible. Even though it comes with the Wheeler scope mounting kit don't use it. If you don't want to use Lock T that's perfectly cool. You don't need to. But there is no reason to torque to levels that your talking about on most guns. That said there is a reason it comes in the scope mounting kit. Just sayin.. Contact Bushnell directly. They are the only source that can answer your question. You have a valid question, they should be very happy to provide a detailed answer and perhaps update their packaging information. Cheers
Yes. i will call bushnell today. I would like Bushnell write the same notice than Vortex in the manual owner.
 
Always been 16 -18 lbs for me ever since they came out with the sm torque drivers. Usually blue lock-tite on my alcohol degreased / cleaned screws.
Back in the day, when using the old allen keys...I'd tighten it up as much as I could with my fingertips and the allen key inserted long ways into the screw....then , I'd turn the key on its side and take another 1/4 to 1/2 turn in. Did it that way from the late 70's on...NEVER had a scope or a mount come loose on me, or the scopes I mounted for friends and family.
Used clear nail polish more than once as a thread locker too. Works great...cleans off the threads easily with a bit of acetone.

OP...I honestly can't see them wanting to change their manuals now. Maybe they can include a sm print card with that info,..buttt.. then again.. lol...good luck with that !
 
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