Total Newbie trying to reload...what should I know..?

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saxsaxsax

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Hi guys,

I have never reloaded ammo before...I have some sense of what I need to do and stuff, but not exactly clear. The only (2) reasons(s) I wanna reload is to save some money and for better accuracy.

anyone know what equipments and how much it would cost if I reloaded .45ACP, .223, .308, and MAYBE 9mm?

Thanks!
 
Go buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading and read it. Rocket science it ain't.
Look into a beginner's kit. The cost of the kit varies, but figure on around $500 plus the cost of dies and shell holder. You won't save any money(mostly because you'll be shooting more. Does save the hunt for the best price for ammo though. You hunt for the best price for components instead), but you will shoot better ammo.
 
FIRST you need a reloading manual, I suggest Lyman. It'll pretty well lay it out for you. If the object is to save money, check out Higginson Powder, they distribute Lee reloading tools at reasonable prices.Check out their reloading kits. Also, for rifle their collet die is worth having. We all have our thoughts about what's good and what's not, and I don't like Lee's reloading dies or powder scale, prefer RCBS or Lyman.
Again, if saving money is the object, you should consider getting into bullet casting fairly early on. Cast bullet ammunition is far cheaper than conventional ammunition, and does pretty well in any rifle I've tried it in.
Remember, you can reload with the basics. There are many things that are conveniences that you don't need immediately, if ever.
Grouch
 
grouch said:
FIRST you need a reloading manual, I suggest Lyman. It'll pretty well lay it out for you. If the object is to save money, check out Higginson Powder, they distribute Lee reloading tools at reasonable prices.Check out their reloading kits. Also, for rifle their collet die is worth having. We all have our thoughts about what's good and what's not, and I don't like Lee's reloading dies or powder scale, prefer RCBS or Lyman.
Again, if saving money is the object, you should consider getting into bullet casting fairly early on. Cast bullet ammunition is far cheaper than conventional ammunition, and does pretty well in any rifle I've tried it in.
Remember, you can reload with the basics. There are many things that are conveniences that you don't need immediately, if ever.
Grouch
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Yeah I got a peek at Lyman's last edition published in 2002, it was a lot of info and it sounded like there were a lot to be bought before I get started. I know that casting my own bullets can be a huge saver, but by how much? Of course the whole point of me trying to reload is to shoot more, but how much would it cost for one round of .45 or 308 or 223? I kinda want to make sure it is worth it before I invest in 500 bucks (or more? I dont know..?) in the equipments..

Thanks!
 
I started reloading not too long ago, I've learn by helping a buddy of mine and got caught into it :p

I reload match quality bullet that cost me below 60 cents a round where off the shell ammo of ''equal'' quality are worth 60$-70$ for 20. I get far better accuracy with my .308 reloads than anything off the shelf. I was lucky enough to do the R&D while reloading with my friend so I got my ''recipe'' all ready for .308

.223 is dirt cheap to reload. Pistol calibers is cheap too, but the amount you reload deserve a progressive press.

I reload rifle calibers with a very simple setup LEE single stage press and I have plan to get a progressive one for pistol calibers in 2014
 
Reloading is fun and worth it if you want ammo that is more accurate but saving money.......NOT!

You'll spend as much but shoot 2 to 3 times more.

What I did before buying my equipement was:
•Read some books (ABC's' Lyman, Lee)
•Watch a lot of videos on Youtube. There are a ton of good ones and a few crappy ones out there. Try TheLockandload channel, the guy did two series that I realy liked, one on .45ACP and one on .223rem.

Enjoy and be safe!
 
There is some question whether reloading will end up saving you much money, or more than likely, you'll end up shooting more and better on the same dollars!.
Start off with a single stage press, & you can do it all.
For Precision rifle cart's., a SS is all you'll ever use.
Pistol/blaster ammo ... kinda slow for high volume, but there are ways to increase output. Carbide pistol dies(no lube/delube hassles) and a Good Quality Powder measure removes the time wasted to weigh every charge. Ball powder rifle charges as well, they can drop directly into the case after your all set up and locked down(occasional checks are required).
Lee Collet neck dies require no lube, and don't drag that infernal -%#@*ing- FL expander ball back out of the(now crooked)neck. They do size those necks quickly, and nice and straight too.
For any rifle that puts accuracy first, great benefit is to be had from a straight line BR micrometer seater die. Forsters are excellent and not too pricey.
Get yourself a vernier caliper, you'll use it a lot.
And a good scale too. I prefer balance beam with time saving 'approach to weight' feature like RCBS 505 or 10/10 ... this after way too many probs/agro with a few digital scales that have since been tossed.

If your not yet into casting your own pistol boolits(shoot for next to nothing!), they come reasonable priced in bulk from commercial casters.
 
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The fact that you mention feeling pressured to buy lots of stuff comes from the manuals you read. Any manual from a manufacturer will be full of self promoting marketing. They want you to buy as much of their stuff as possible. Lee is bad for this too. For a basic kit to start you don't need an extravagant collection of tools. And you can do it for a lot less than $500 too! You will need at the minimum a manual, press, calipers, appropriate dies, trimming and chamfering tools, a powder scale, and a priming tool. A lot of press's come with priming tools. That will get you loading safe ammunition. I recommend a single stage to start on. You'll always need one around anyways and its the best way to learn each step. A progressive is ideal for pistol but trying to set up every step all at once when you don't know what you're doing can be dangerous and overwhelming. Once you can turn out good consistent rounds on a single stage then start looking into a progressive. Your tool collection will grow depending on your wants and needs. Don't be afraid of Lee but don't expect superior quality with Lee either. I'd avoid their safety scale and spring for a better one. Its miserable to use even though its accurate. Start with the basics and add the tools you want once you get going. It will save you money on things you didn't know you didn't need or want until after getting tired of using it. Remember: manual, press, calipers, dies, trimming and chamfering tools, priming tool, scale. You can reload properly with just that and you don't need to break the bank.
 
Well here's my 2½¢ worth. A number of folks will encourage you to spend the extra and get a progressive press over a single stage press. Well, if you are good with your hands and can read a manual and mechanically inclined, by all means. If you're loading bottle neck for precision ammo, I recommend a single stage. You'd be surprised how much you can do on a single stage press if you manage your time and streamline your procedures.

You "might" save money in the long long long run but don't expect to recover the cost of your gear in the span of a shooting season. Reloaders will tell you that they don't save any money 'cause they just end up shooting more for the same price.

A sample breakdown in cost for me (start saving your brass!):

45ACP - $10./50rnds 230gr FMJ, or $7./50rnds using cast lead
308Win - $32./50rnds match grade (compared to $32/20 for cheaper line of Hornady match grade ammo)
9mm - $7/50rnds 124gr FMJ or $5./50rnds cast lead
223Rem if you're just plinking ammo and not shooting precision, you're better off buying bulk surplus ammo. Works out to be around 30¢/rnd.
 
Well, not knowing your shooting amounts now, I really can't tell you which set up you need. But,
Those telling you to stay away from Lee products are shortsighted and have deeper pockets than I do.
You could load perfectly good ammo with a Lee Loader in each of .45 and .308. They cost about $40 and all you need is components! Albeit AWFULLY slow, that's how I started loading hunting rounds for my .303Br.
And you don't need a progressive press to load, a turret press will do fine.
I will reiterate a manual.
 
If were to start it all over again, My first purchase would be a LEE Classic Turret kit.
That press can be set up as a single or a progressive press,to help speed uo loading when you get more comfortable with it.
 
zuke said:
If were to start it all over again, My first purchase would be a LEE Classic Turret kit.
That press can be set up as a single or a progressive press,to help speed uo loading when you get more comfortable with it.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did and it suits me perfectly. I bought mine after recommendations like yours here on CGN.
 
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