I guess that depends on what you call loose.
If proper care is taken, they're fine, for hunting at sensible ranges.
If you're going to insist on "match" accuracy from a take down rifle then you need to figure out a different system than threaded tenons and mating up at TDC every time and keeping things so tight they can't move, even a tiny bit.
That doesn't leave you a lot of choices, other than what you find on Shotguns or some semi auto centerfire rifles.
Browning take down 22rf rifles used and "interrupted" thread with a threaded locking ring and a mechanism on the bottom which acted like a key to keep the barrel in place. The locking collar held the barrel snug against the receiver in that position and worked very well.
I've seen almost identical systems on a couple of bolt rifles and they worked just as well, as long as the shooter took care to snug the locking ring with the right torque. It tends to shift a bit over the years though. But these rifles weren't meant t be taken down just because you can, on a daily basis.
They were intended for use on hunts where they were disassembled for travel between home and the hunting camp.
I used to have a Japanese Type II Model 99, Paratrooper rifle. It's barrel was held in place with a "wedge" that was screwed in from the right side to fit into a notch on the bottom of the barrel tenon and it locked in place very snugly. It had to, it was intended for battle.
I had to sell that rifle to help pay legal expenses for a Divorce.
It shot quite well, as long as your targets were human sized. A four inch group at 100 would be normal, with factory ammo. Handloads would cut that in half.
Weber and Markin Gunsmiths out of Kelowna can build you a take down rifle. Chris will take you aside, ask you how much money you want to spend, and if you don't have much, he will try to talk you out of it.
