Trail camera designs (flaws)

John Y Cannuck

John Y Cannuck

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This type, purchased from Ebay, currently I think the cheapest new camera on there.
It has several flaws.
1. There are no options, it takes three photos and a video every time.
2. This may not be a problem for you, it is for me. It uses micro SDs, that are inserted backwards from the bottom. Easy if it's in hand, a real PIA on the tree.
I actually use the tweezers from my Swiss Army knife to get the card out.
3. It uses only four AA's. That means you will not get the extended life of the usual eight. So not great for a spot where you check once a year.

That said, it's video and photo quality are fine for my purposes.


IMO micro SD's suck in trail cams. To easy to drop and hard to find if you do.
 

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I have a Wild game Innovations camera that may take the best photos of any of the cameras I have, however, it has one issue, it has a bulge in the case that results in a shelf for snow to sit on blocking the lens. For this camera I have made a bent piece of galvanized metal that I stick in as a roof to keep the snow off.

It also came with tiny bungee cords instead of a strap. They have mostly lost their stretch now, about 1 year in. They won't go around a tree much bigger than 4" without hooking the two together.
 
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John Y Cannuck said:
I have a Wild game Innovations camera that may take the best photos of any of the cameras I have, however, it has one issue, it has a bulge in the case that results in a shelf for snow to sit on blocking the lens. For this camera I have made a bent piece of galvanized metal that I stick in as a roof to keep the snow off.

It also came with tiny bungee cords instead of a strap. They have mostly lost their stretch now, about 1 year in. They won't go around a tree much bigger than 4" without hooking the two together.
Click to expand...

Ive made small snow blockers for each of my spycams. The design of those cams means they split down the middle of the side ro open them (unlike my moultrie and browning that only opens like a dutch door). So i did the same as you but using plastic from yogurt lids cut to a C shape (to sit flush against the tree). Works great!
 
Bushnell E2.....no longer made but still easy to find on Amazon etc. Pretty inexpensive and takes great stills.
 
I've tried a number of different cams, and they all have flaws. Some don't manifest themselves until after they've been on a tree for a while. So far, the best of the lot have been the Stealth G42NG. The Reconyx have a good reputation, but I'm too cheap to plunk down $4-500 for a single camera.

So far I've had:
-display screens go blank; camera still works but you can't adjust any settings.
-the first burst of pics impossibly dark, so you can barely see what's in the pic. 2nd burst is normal.
-cameras that eat batteries- sometimes only get 2 days out of them before they quit
-camera where the battery compartment has to be in just so, or it won't get any power

Some of the best cameras were the older Moultrie M80 series, but they glow red and it tends to frighten the bucks.

And that doesn't include issues caused by moose using them as scratching posts or bears trying to eat them.
 
A 9" foil pie plate painted with flat green, brown, or gray primer duck taped to the top of your trail cam makes a simple fix to keep snow/rain off.

Hang your red glow cams high and point them down to keep from spooking deer. One climbing stick will get you up high enough to keep deer from spooking and thieves from theiving
 
How do you guys conceal your cams? I had the neighbor pull my cards on a piece of crown land by the farm he claims he wanted to see who was prowling in the area. Amazingly he was going to put them back today, after my dad called him and asked for my cards back. I can't wait to find his cams.
 
The straps are the dead give away to someone looking to steal your camera. You can see the straps from any side of the tree. If you can use the mount on the base of most cameras and screw it to the tree, that will enable you to hide it a bit better.
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I use something similar to this, on cameras that will accept it. Came with the camera. Looks like a 1/4" stud would fit, you can probably make one.
They also make aiming the camera a breeze.
 

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Not to hijack the OP post, I have made these DIY camera holders for using trail cameras for surveillance on my deer property. I have noticed that using the straps is usually the best way to get the camera noticed as the straps really show up against the bark of the tree. I will be moving towards using a wing nut on the 3/8 bolt to tighten and adjust the camera. I also like to use longer eye screws to make sure I have the camera well secured into the trees as I have had bears climb up and inspect the camera. I like putting the camera 12 -15' off the ground as it makes detection less noticeable. Here is the link that you can print out for the parts list:


http://https://cambushcamo.com/blogs/news/9586237-do-it-yourself-trail-camera-mount

EDIT: make sure you get a couple cans of flat paint in different colours and spray after you make them up. If you leave them in the shiny metal finish they stick out like a sore thumb. here are some I just finished:

7uh0T3R.jpg
 
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John Y Cannuck said:
The straps are the dead give away to someone looking to steal your camera. You can see the straps from any side of the tree. If you can use the mount on the base of most cameras and screw it to the tree, that will enable you to hide it a bit better.
View attachment 236161

I use something similar to this, on cameras that will accept it. Came with the camera. Looks like a 1/4" stud would fit, you can probably make one.
They also make aiming the camera a breeze.
Click to expand...

Yeah my campark Chinese cam came with one of these. I like it.
 
Chas said:
Not to hijack the OP post, I have made these DIY camera holders for using trail cameras for surveillance on my deer property. I have noticed that using the straps is usually the best way to get the camera noticed as the straps really show up against the bark of the tree. I will be moving towards using a wing nut on the 3/8 bolt to tighten and adjust the camera. I also like to use longer eye screws to make sure I have the camera well secured into the trees as I have had bears climb up and inspect the camera. I like putting the camera 12 -15' off the ground as it makes detection less noticeable. Here is the link that you can print out for the parts list:


http://https://cambushcamo.com/blogs/news/9586237-do-it-yourself-trail-camera-mount
Click to expand...

Great idea. thanks!
 
Waaay back I had a Moultrie IR4 - huge, ugly, poor range, and long delay... but it worked. It's still around here somewhere... but retired.
SUMMARY - Not a bad camera for it's day, but technically inferior to the newer models. Some other users had LCD issues in the cold.

During a lapse of reason, I bought two of the 2 packs of cheapo WildGameInnovations at crap tire... 3 out of 4 did not function reliably. Returned all the next week.
SUMMARY - Garbage

Bought a single Spypoint IR5. Awesome pics and battery life, range, and fast re-shoot. Still in use, 5 years running 365 days of the year.
SUMMARY - Great reliable camera. Quick setup. Only downside is the battery status bar shows full, when batteries are near dead.

Bought 2 more Spypoint IR6 cams, Crap tire exclusive. Both worked well... but they didn't have the fast re-take option of the earlier IR5. Sold them both.
SUMMARY - Reasonable cameras, but I missed the fast recovery of the IR5

Bought a Spypoint Force 11. Works very well. Much improved images, especially daytime. It's out 24/7/365, about 1 year now.
SUMMARY - Fantastic images - quite reliable so far. Good battery life

Lastly, a friend of mine has a Stealthcam - which I helped him setup... Not sure the model. Uses 8 AA batteries, very good battery life.
SUMMARY - the rotary selector is great for someone who doesn't want to screw around navigating menus. Image quality is shiitty


I have had very good success with the Spypoints.
Night shots can be a bit blurry on moving animals, due to the shutter being open longer than daytime.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Force 11.

Design Flaws -
In general, camera manufacturers should use a low-light sensitive CCD eg Exview HAD, so that the shutter can be faster at night.
In general, LCD screens can prove flaky after prolonged use in -20C temperatures. LED screen would be better.
 
Buck_Up said:
Waaay back I had a Moultrie IR4 - huge, ugly, poor range, and long delay... but it worked. It's still around here somewhere... but retired.
SUMMARY - Not a bad camera for it's day, but technically inferior to the newer models. Some other users had LCD issues in the cold.

During a lapse of reason, I bought two of the 2 packs of cheapo WildGameInnovations at crap tire... 3 out of 4 did not function reliably. Returned all the next week.
SUMMARY - Garbage

Bought a single Spypoint IR5. Awesome pics and battery life, range, and fast re-shoot. Still in use, 5 years running 365 days of the year.
SUMMARY - Great reliable camera. Quick setup. Only downside is the battery status bar shows full, when batteries are near dead.

Bought 2 more Spypoint IR6 cams, Crap tire exclusive. Both worked well... but they didn't have the fast re-take option of the earlier IR5. Sold them both.
SUMMARY - Reasonable cameras, but I missed the fast recovery of the IR5

Bought a Spypoint Force 11. Works very well. Much improved images, especially daytime. It's out 24/7/365, about 1 year now.
SUMMARY - Fantastic images - quite reliable so far. Good battery life

Lastly, a friend of mine has a Stealthcam - which I helped him setup... Not sure the model. Uses 8 AA batteries, very good battery life.
SUMMARY - the rotary selector is great for someone who doesn't want to screw around navigating menus. Image quality is shiitty


I have had very good success with the Spypoints.
Night shots can be a bit blurry on moving animals, due to the shutter being open longer than daytime.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Force 11.

Design Flaws -
In general, camera manufacturers should use a low-light sensitive CCD eg Exview HAD, so that the shutter can be faster at night.
In general, LCD screens can prove flaky after prolonged use in -20C temperatures. LED screen would be better.
Click to expand...

Check that spypoint. One of Jays has a switch on it for Lithium or NiCad. That might correct your meter if it has it.
 
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