Trigger Job on a 10/22

markt

markt

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I just picked up a new 10/22. Man, the trigger is brutal...

Can the techniques presented on the Tips & Tricks sticky thread be used on the new plastic triggered 10/22's? I'm interested in keeping the costs down if I can improve things myself fairly easily.

Else, I understand that a new hammer might be another way to go. Has anyone experience with them and can recommend a particular brand?

Cheers,

MarkT
 
Mark,
PM me your e-mail and I'll send you the files I have on a do it your self adjustable trigger and then search RinFireCentral.com for advice on the torsion trigger return spring and you will have a 2# trigger for next to nothing.
Kim
 
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I was thinking of doing the exact same thing, however if you screw up... SOL for me :p

Does your trigger assembly have a slight wobble to it too when you move it from side to side?
 
Nonus said:
I was thinking of doing the exact same thing, however if you screw up... SOL for me :p

Does your trigger assembly have a slight wobble to it too when you move it from side to side?
Click to expand...


If you do screw up, just buy the drop in parts everyone else does!
I've tweaked 5 now, the first 4 were horrible and the side play took a fair bit of shimming to get rid of. The last one, was tight as can be, a quick polish of the sears and it was a slick 3lb trigger. Fastest tweak so far.
 
The cheapest, effective thing you can do is disassemble the trigger group and smooth everything off. Digi cam the take down for ease of reassembly.
 
I took everything apart once and managed to put it all back from memory easily. If you do I used the weed whacker trigger trick. Where you assemble the trigger, sear and disconnector together using a small piece of weed whacker line. Make sure you cut it short enough to fit in the assembly but long enough to hold it together. Then slide it in and slide the pin in and the line out.

Do you have to reharden the components after a polish job?
 
No just smooth them off. The buffed hammer makes a difference in the smoothness of the action. Buffing the inside of the receiver also would help.
 
Inside the receiver is going to be a pain since the dremel won't get in there.

One question I always wondered is what is this stone they use for stoning a hammer?

I have a metal trigger assembly on hold, just waiting for the guy to get back in town so I will have a back up of everything and plan on doing all this.
 
I use the white stone wheel for the dremmel attachment. Smoothen the parts describes in "tips and tricks". Also, you can order a Power Custom hammer and adjustable sear. They come with 2 sets of shims. Really makes a difference.
 
I did a semi polish today. I went to install the bolt buffer that I just got and ended up going hardcore with a polish. I just took a piece of whatever sand paper, smoothed it as good as it will get. Then I took the polish wheel and some polish stuff that came with a cheap dremel addon kit and polished it up. The part of the hammer where the bolt contacts was extremely bad and still need to touch it up. Seems like doing this got rid of all the slack I had in the trigger, now it is just a direct pull and fire.

Was too scared, nor do I have the tools to do the hammer stoning.
 
VQ hammer - does the trick...

Well, I installed a VQ hammer tonight. Wow, what a difference, eh? The pull is noticably lighter which should translate into better groups tomorrow at the range. There's still a fair bit of creep but the lightness makes it a lot less noticable.

This should do me until I can justify a Kidd trigger group. :D

So far, it's the best purchase I've made for the gun after the Tech Sights...

Cheers,

MarkT
 
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