Thanks for all the useful feedbacks.
As far as being easy to adjust, I would like to include here the adjustment procedure for the Remington trigger. It appears that there are 3 adjustment screws with some of them interacting. I'm not a 100% sure but I believe that if you only adjust the pull weight, you might affect some of the other features.
Published article on the Internet on adjusting the trigger
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The first screw I adjust is the weight of pull screw. #### the trigger by lifting and closing the bolt. Backing the screw out will lighten the trigger pull, because it elongates the return spring. Back out the screw and test the pull either by feel or with a trigger pull gauge until it feels right. If you cannot #### the rifle, it means you have backed the adjustment screw out too far - screw it back in until you can #### the rifle. The sear adjustment screw, the one on the back of the trigger housing, also controls the trigger pull – specifically, it is used to control creep, or trigger movement before sear release. However, it also contributes to the weight of pull, because it controls the bearing surface between the middle lever and the trigger (in other words, it controls the how much metal to metal contact there is). Screwing in the sear engagement screw reduces the amount of creep, or the amount of trigger travel before breaking the sear. Moving the sear engagement screw in too far will result in an inability to #### the rifle (I usually play with both the weight of pull screw and sear engagement screw to achieve the desired trigger pull). One criticism I have of the Remington trigger is the amount of goop they put on the sear engagement screw – I have dinged up several trying to turn them.
The next step in adjusting a trigger is the most important – ensuring safety. I run through several tests, the most basic of which is cocking the action by lifting and closing the bolt. If the action does not stay cocked when cocking the action very quickly, the trigger pull is too light. If the action passes this test, I then lift the bolt, pull it back to the rear, and slam it forward as fast and forcefully as possible. If the gun stays cocked after several iterations of this step, you are almost home free. The next step is to #### the rifle, grab it by the barrel, and slam the gun against the floor. If the sear releases, the trigger pull is too light. Finally, if it passes all of these tests, #### the rifle and put the safety on “safe.” Now lightly touch the trigger and push the safety forward. If the sear releases, it is time to go back to the drawing board.
After establishing a safe trigger pull, backlash adjustment is next on the agenda. This step is simple – #### the rifle, then screw the backlash adjustment screw all the way in. Now, with the screwdriver in one hand engaged in the backlash screw, pull the trigger with the other hand. The rifle will not release the trigger, but keep pressing on it and slowly back out the backlash adjustment screw until the sear falls. #### the rifle and press the trigger a few times to ensure the firing pin falls. You are now finished adjusting the trigger. The last step is to cement the screws with any agent that will freeze the screws in place so they don’t move. I use fingernail polish; anything that can later be removed will work.
If you are not satisfied with your trigger adjustment efforts (if, for example, you cannot safely achieve a trigger light enough for your needs), you have two options…you can replace the factory original trigger, or you can send the action to a qualified gunsmith. I recently had Gordy Gritters bed a Shilen-barreled .220 Swift for me, and for a mere $10 he replaced the original weight of pull screw with one that allowed the trigger pull to be adjusted much lighter than what was otherwise safe. Having a quality ‘smith such as Gordy do your trigger work is certainly a fail-proof solution. (Incidentally, after breaking in the barrel, the first group out of that gun, a factory load, shot in the three’s!)
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