Tru-Oil?
- Thread starter MD
- Start date
enought to fill the grain and get the shine you want
I may buff after a couple coats, but I rub out with my hand , fingers till smooth, dry, so I don't usally
I have used about 4 coats , up to 10 coats , but that is with Tung oil on good walnut.
I may buff after a couple coats, but I rub out with my hand , fingers till smooth, dry, so I don't usally
I have used about 4 coats , up to 10 coats , but that is with Tung oil on good walnut.
'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret."
Many products advertised as "oils" are in fact wiping varnishes.
A wiping varnish "A wiping varnish is nothing more than a varnish that's been diluted with mineral spirits. The resulting runny mixture can be applied with nothing more than a clean rag. It's almost as easy to work with as an oil finish and just about as durable as a built-up varnish." (See https://myoldmasters.com/tutorial/shop-made-wiping-varnish#:~:text=What is it?,as a built-up varnish.)
Below is a list of some examples of wiping varnishes. From an American website, this may contain products unavailable in Canada and omit products that are found here.
A wiping varnish "A wiping varnish is nothing more than a varnish that's been diluted with mineral spirits. The resulting runny mixture can be applied with nothing more than a clean rag. It's almost as easy to work with as an oil finish and just about as durable as a built-up varnish." (See https://myoldmasters.com/tutorial/shop-made-wiping-varnish#:~:text=What is it?,as a built-up varnish.)
Below is a list of some examples of wiping varnishes. From an American website, this may contain products unavailable in Canada and omit products that are found here.
Rather than applying 10-15 coats, thin the mixture down with acetone to a watery consistency and apply with either a cloth or a fine brush.
This also reduces drying time between coats. It's easily possible to put three coats onto a stock on a nice warm day, if you leave the stock outside where there is lots of moving air.
Using a brush usually applies to much, even when thinned down.
Adding the acetone allows it to penetrate into the wood better and makes for much less work. I find 3-4 coats of this mixture to be plenty and it's much easier to control the ''gloss''
Some folks like gloss though so if you do, don't thin down the mixture.
This also reduces drying time between coats. It's easily possible to put three coats onto a stock on a nice warm day, if you leave the stock outside where there is lots of moving air.
Using a brush usually applies to much, even when thinned down.
Adding the acetone allows it to penetrate into the wood better and makes for much less work. I find 3-4 coats of this mixture to be plenty and it's much easier to control the ''gloss''
Some folks like gloss though so if you do, don't thin down the mixture.
I apply Tru every 4hrs when the basement is 14° and 80% humidity. Not worth the extra effort IMO!!
I start with 2 coats of Tung oil for grain enhancement and 'depth'
I've lost count on the number of stocks I've cheered up.
Tru Oil always seems to git the best of me.
Watched Randy Boyd awn his oww too channel.
Seems simple 'nuff, butt there always be one little run or dried smear.
Wet sander down and try it again and again.
Tried some Varathane Tung Oil.
Good results, but a bit slow on drying.
Few others cut the mustard as well.
I've mixed'n matched using different products over the same job and got some pretty decent looking results.
Tru Oil always seems to git the best of me.
Watched Randy Boyd awn his oww too channel.
Seems simple 'nuff, butt there always be one little run or dried smear.
Wet sander down and try it again and again.
Tried some Varathane Tung Oil.
Good results, but a bit slow on drying.
Few others cut the mustard as well.
I've mixed'n matched using different products over the same job and got some pretty decent looking results.
waynewjw
CGN Regular
Recipe I learned from a guy on Rimfire Central….Tru Oil mixed with Armour All original…..few drops of each in the palm of your hand, start at one end and rub on with your hands until it gets warm, repeat move to the next area. Takes awhile if you have the time but gives you a nice finish IMHO.
Many products advertised as "oils" are in fact wiping varnishes.
A wiping varnish "A wiping varnish is nothing more than a varnish that's been diluted with mineral spirits. The resulting runny mixture can be applied with nothing more than a clean rag. It's almost as easy to work with as an oil finish and just about as durable as a built-up varnish." (See https://myoldmasters.com/tutorial/shop-made-wiping-varnish#:~:text=What is it?,as a built-up varnish.)
Below is a list of some examples of wiping varnishes. From an American website, this may contain products unavailable in Canada and omit products that are found here.
I have a 946 ml tin of Miniwax Tung oil my neighbour gave me when he moved. I've used it for touch up here and there.
fritzhanzel
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Great info. I always apply with a lintless cloth and will try the acetone mix next time. I find 4 or 5 coats plenty. Last one I did was over a year ago and still looks the same. I like the shiny look though.
Truoil is toxic. You are not supposed to get it on your hands, .... read the MSDS - nasty stuff.
Steel wool will always leave bits of steel in bare wood and embedded in finishes - that can affect some stains and dyes, but particularly chemical/natural treatments (aqua fortis)
Best to use a "synthetic" steel wool - AKA green pads, which you can get i superfine (white) .... these are also great for carding browning jobs BTW.
You can French polish a truoil finish - that way you don't need to rub it into your skin.
I put several cotton balls inside a ladies nylon stocking and dip in finish oil. No lint and no lines in the finish. Plus you don't get your fingers sticky.
