Truing Stag 10 upper
- Thread starter ffgats
- Start date
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
No. Such a service does not exist. Even if it did, there is literally nothing to true, any any person promising such a service is simply taking your money.
Aprilia Man
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Canadian "WET" Coast (Raincouver)
Already did, Geissele Trigger, Criterion Barrel , I might as well cover all the points since already invested in good quality parts, i reload so I can develop a specific load . This might be my last AR type build , so want to make it right, especially with the present political
climate. Slowing down on the Action type competition, seeing myself joining the PS .
Which calibre? 308 or 6.5CM? Length of barrel and twist rate?
You don't need to lap anything. The Criterion barrel fits exceptionally well with the Stag10. It's a perfect fit. Unless you see some sort of rough endges or poor finish where the barrel fits into the upper then I think you're wasting your time/money. Just use some anti seize on the barrel nut and use the correct tool/torque.
With that barrel, trigger and the Stag10 components, you will easily have a .5 moa firearm. Keep in mind they aren't hard to disasemble again if you feel it must be lapped. Even though I think once you shoot it, you're going to have a big grin on your face.
Sorry about the non positive post before, but when I see bluing/truing of an AR it makes me wonder what is going on. You don't true/blue print an AR action. That's the beauty of the design.
On a side note, what the Liberals are trying to do is pure genocide to firearm owners. The AR is our generations mauser action. It's inexpensive, exceptionally accurate and an exceptionally modular firearm.
OK, the object is to make sure the face of the receiver is perpendicular to the bore of the receiver.
Couldn't a barrel extension be used to lap the front face square? Saves buying a specialized tool, or machining one as in the video.
Couldn't a barrel extension be used to lap the front face square? Saves buying a specialized tool, or machining one as in the video.
Probably would work. Need the abrasive paste too.
The way the bolt locks into the barrel extension I believe tends to help mitigate any extremely minor variances. In reality the quality stuff such as the Stag 10 seem to be decent and not an issue.
Below is just more to add to the thread, not a response to Tiriaq:
One of the issues with the AR308 is the lack of standards and competing similar designs that sort of work together if you're lucky. There is no "milspec" with the AR308. I mention this because I see people get into these like AR15 builds. I don't recommend that. For instance if buying a Stag 10 I would stay with the stag 10 buffer, buffer spring and BCG. I happen to like the SLR adjustable gas block so went that way along with a better matched barrel. But the core of the system I kept the same. This was to minimize compatibility issues, slight differences in manufacturing tolerances etc. You want to think of the AR308 as a system that may or may not be compatible. You also want to keep the variables down to a dull roar, unless you really like problems solving. This also helps keep these rifles accurate since the manufacturer has done all the work for you.
Long post short, you are more likely to induce tolerance issues than ones that actually exist with the system. Machining these days is pretty darn accurate, even with the lower level stuff.
A range day I had a number of years ago with an AR15 actually brought this home to me. A buddy on this site had a norc AR15 he took in as a partial trade. This thing had the handguard changed out to a free float, low profile gas block and the trigger was swapped out along with some cosmetic upgrades. It still had the same sloppy norc tolerances, same crappy finish and the same M4 profile barrel (They are actually hammer forged). Add on a 1 moa red dot and we decided to bench rest it for S&G. Some 55 grain PMC bronze ammo. More than a bit surprised when we were both shooing 5 round groups at 1" at 100 yards with this setup. Not an accuracy AR. In fact a gussied up $500 AR.
In order of importance for accurizing an AR308 rifle:
1) The barrel (Right barrel length, twist rate and high quality. Criterion is the cheapest I generally go with. If you can find Lothar Walther (older Armalite SASS ones for instance) then those are good as well. The chamber on these also plays a part. Older Obyermeyer or newer LR118 chambers etc do actually make a difference. Buy a decent barrel from a company that knows AR308 barrels rather than a bolt gun barrel company if you can.
2) The trigger. Geisselle currently has the lowest lock time. You want the shorttest lock time as possible. This is what has led to the idea that AR rifles are so much harder to shoot. Today, they aren't. But the older triggers were slower and follow through was very important.
3) The handguard. No super light weight flimsly handguards. Look for an old Badger stablizer if you can find one. Heavy as heck but work great. Or something newer and my preference, the diamondback VRS. For an all around rifle the MI is the lightest I go with.
4) The stock. A2 or PRS stock for accuracy shooting. I'll use a Sopmod or even FAB GL-core type stock for accurate carbines. No CTR or other light carbine stocks. You want solid with a good cheek rest. The A frame stocks like the SOPMOD are decent, but the longer range ones such as the A2 or PRS eliminate any movement/rattle etc as well.
5) Buy as a system. It's easiest to stick with the Buffer/Buffer spring and BCG of one company. Stag for instance makes decent stuff. Buffer weights, springs etc can have a lot of effect on both reliability and consistency. Only the extremes are likely to cause accuracy issues and mostly due to the affect on the shooter. But it's worth noting.
6) Gas block. Most are overgassed. Not an issue for accuracy per say, but softer shooting helps the shooter and less wear/tear on the rifle. In extremes it could cause reliability or possibly accuracy issues. Softer and smoother are preferred. I really like the SLR adjustable nitride I tried out on one of my rifles. Worked well.
Ammo, glass, mounts are really all that's left. I'm not really into this lapping stuff. But hey, if you have the tools etc to do it then why not. Just be careful you don't overdue it. If you create a loose fit with the barrel to receiver, then you will have accuracy issues.
