"Well, I just want to know if the handloads would be as powerful as mil surp ammo."
That's up to you, really. You can make your handloads as hot or as mild as you like. My Mauser is something like 80 or so years old so I don't load all that hot. Just enough to reliably cycle the action. I'm by no means a reloading "expert". All I can say, are that in about 10,000 loads of .30 Mauser, 9x19mm, .38 Spcl., .380 ACP, .45 ACP and .32 S&W Long, I've never had any gun blow up or have a squib load. (Knock on Wood!)
So yeah, just buy some Starline brass, primers, powder and bullets and get cracking. I use headstamped ".30 Mauser" & "7.62X25" brass interchangeably without any problem. Starline says there's a difference between the two, but it's so small as to not pose a problem to me. Your Tokarev's chambers might have tighter tolerances. When I can't find lead bullets, I make do with the Speer .30 "Plinker" bullets. They are a tad on the light side, but are available easily enough and work. I'm told that jacketed bullets sold for use in .32 ACP reloading work, but I haven't tried that yet.
Incidently, for what it's worth, I've found that 4.2 grs of "Titegroup" and "700X" have worked well enough for me in my .30 Mauser, 9x19mm AND target load .45 ACP. Off the top of my head though, I can't remember what I had for bullet weights in all those calibres and that will make a difference.
Not entirely sure though that a Tokarev is a gun that makes much sense reloading for... Except for ranges that don't want their backstops destroyed. Stick a magnet to the nose of your surplus ammo. I think they pretty much all have steel penetrators under the copper jacket. I'm not saying it will go through a typical indoor range's backstop, but it sure as heck will pockmark it and cause problems down the road.