I have a "master" machinist at my disposal, 25 years on a lathe, awesome friend of mine. Only thing is, he's not into or even fired a firearm, and I have never taken metal shop let alone seen a lathe. He wants to help me out and is up to re-profiling it on his lathe. He works with 4140 all day long, mine is in 4150 cmv, how much harder on his bits is that? How long out of his weekend will this take? Special areas of concern, such as crown... cause he wont know to take any special care
i'm using ar15barrels.com/making.shtml as a semi tutorial for him. But is there any pitfalls to be aware of? I'm leaving the gas block at .750 cause i simply want to use a cut down FSB and take advantage of the pins... but if im doing it anyway... maybe 625 is the way to go?
I'm thinking .650 or .700 under handguards and .550 front of gas. I REALLY like the A1 profile, but Im leaning to 700/625/550 for rapid fire competitions. But straight 625 would be easier on him? My understanding is the muzzle end of barrel can be .550 as rapid fire heat doesnt effect POI there?
Mine is at 35oz on 16", ideally id like it in the 22-26 range.
Please any gunsmith/machinist's out there that can give some gun specific tips to pass on to him is much appreciated
THIS LOOKS FUN!
i'm using ar15barrels.com/making.shtml as a semi tutorial for him. But is there any pitfalls to be aware of? I'm leaving the gas block at .750 cause i simply want to use a cut down FSB and take advantage of the pins... but if im doing it anyway... maybe 625 is the way to go?
I'm thinking .650 or .700 under handguards and .550 front of gas. I REALLY like the A1 profile, but Im leaning to 700/625/550 for rapid fire competitions. But straight 625 would be easier on him? My understanding is the muzzle end of barrel can be .550 as rapid fire heat doesnt effect POI there?
Mine is at 35oz on 16", ideally id like it in the 22-26 range.
Please any gunsmith/machinist's out there that can give some gun specific tips to pass on to him is much appreciated
THIS LOOKS FUN!
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