I was just doing some work on it and noticed that it's not locking the cylinder in place when I #### it. took it entirely apart and cleaned it, and the darn thing is still doing it, not sure if it's a spring issue or the fact that the part that locks the cylinder doesn't seem to be moving freely. Anyone have an idea here?
Uberti SAA Clone problem
- Thread starter Dustin
- Start date
handofzeus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Trout Creekish Ontario.
Oh brother! I bought a used Sauer sixshooter with a broken spring and the cylinder wouldn't lock. It took me a few days and maaaaaany hours at the grinder and drill press but I eventually made myself a new spring AND bolt! The part that locks the cylinder is called the bolt. The trigger/sear spring keeps pressure on the trigger and the bolt (which holds the little tab on the bolt in the locking notch on the cylinder). That spring must rest perfectly on the little trigger notch AND the bolt when you are assembling the parts. Best thing is to go online and search the different parts that I've given you, by name. watch as many disassembly videos as you can and learn how each part interacts with the other. When you need new springs (and you will) go direct to WOLFF, don't bother with Brownells. Same springs, less shipping!
There's two things that lock the cylinder. The hand, which also indexes the cylinder around to the next notch, and the stop bolt that sticks up from the bottom of the frame opening.
It sounds from your description that the bolt isn't moving correctly. I'd take the cylinder out of the frame and work the action to check the movement of the bolt. As you work the action.
Your Uberti has the classic "four click" action from the original Colt mechanism. As you draw back the hammer the first click doesn't really do anything noticable. But as you move to the second "half ####" the stop bolt should withdraw down into the frame opening. Then as you continue to #### the hammer the hand will travel up. The third click is where the stop bolt snaps back up into place. From there to full #### the hand will still move up slightly to finish the indexing action.
If your bolt isn't fully retracting and snapping up I would say that the arm for the bolt isn't sitting correctly on the two finger spring which is just under the trigger frame. This two finger spring on one side is the trigger return spring. The other finger is the bolt spring. It is sometimes possible that if you don't hold this spring from shifting as you tighten the screw that the trigger or stop bolt heels do not sit ON the spring. Instead they can fall to one side into the gap created by the spring being cocked to one side. Or possibly when you tightendd the spring screw you got so much of a shift that the bolt side is pressed hard into the frame and that is what is restricting the movement of that one finger from being nice and snappy.
When I tighten the screw for the two finger spring I tend to stick a small shim between the finger and frame to hold the spring nicely centered as I tighten the screw.
The other thing to check is the bolt arm itself. This arm is split with a saw cut. One side of that split portion is a spring that is supposed to skip over the ramped round pin on the hammer. If it has broken off one side of this split portion or if it's becoming fatigued and very un-spring like then you may not be getting the right functioning of this latching feature.
It sounds from your description that the bolt isn't moving correctly. I'd take the cylinder out of the frame and work the action to check the movement of the bolt. As you work the action.
Your Uberti has the classic "four click" action from the original Colt mechanism. As you draw back the hammer the first click doesn't really do anything noticable. But as you move to the second "half ####" the stop bolt should withdraw down into the frame opening. Then as you continue to #### the hammer the hand will travel up. The third click is where the stop bolt snaps back up into place. From there to full #### the hand will still move up slightly to finish the indexing action.
If your bolt isn't fully retracting and snapping up I would say that the arm for the bolt isn't sitting correctly on the two finger spring which is just under the trigger frame. This two finger spring on one side is the trigger return spring. The other finger is the bolt spring. It is sometimes possible that if you don't hold this spring from shifting as you tighten the screw that the trigger or stop bolt heels do not sit ON the spring. Instead they can fall to one side into the gap created by the spring being cocked to one side. Or possibly when you tightendd the spring screw you got so much of a shift that the bolt side is pressed hard into the frame and that is what is restricting the movement of that one finger from being nice and snappy.
When I tighten the screw for the two finger spring I tend to stick a small shim between the finger and frame to hold the spring nicely centered as I tighten the screw.
The other thing to check is the bolt arm itself. This arm is split with a saw cut. One side of that split portion is a spring that is supposed to skip over the ramped round pin on the hammer. If it has broken off one side of this split portion or if it's becoming fatigued and very un-spring like then you may not be getting the right functioning of this latching feature.
The Sear & Bolt Spring is frequently found broken, could be fractured but still in one piece. Make sure it's screw is tight.
Find out if it does or does not move freely.
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If you are cocking the gun slow, try cocking it faster and see if that works.
If it worked perfectly before storage it may just be some old oil and grease that has hardened. This can a little stubborn to remove and a quick pass with solvent may not remove the hard stuff.
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With the hammer removed the bolt should move freely. With the hammer in place there should be some resistance.
Is the bolt binding in the window, or on the screw that holds it in place?
