Unknown Co2 revolver
- Thread starter flying_scotsman
- Start date
38t
Yes, it is a Crossman 38T. I have one. It is quite accurate and shoots hard. You can download a manual for free at http://www.crosman.com/airguns/service/manuals/crosman-pistols
Yes, it is a Crossman 38T. I have one. It is quite accurate and shoots hard. You can download a manual for free at http://www.crosman.com/airguns/service/manuals/crosman-pistols
Threemorewishes
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ottawa Ontario Canada
Re-seal kits are still available for this model.
Coupla things to watch.
Look at the valve body. If it's grey/white color, it's die cast Zinc. If it's yellow, it's brass. The zinc ones are a bit sensitive to having the threads torqued too much, and will strip out if not handled with some care. The brass valve bodies are not readily available.
Look at where the hammer hits the valve. Does it hit the valve directly, or does it strike a transfer bar. The transfer bar eats a tiny bit of the energy of the hammer strike, and can result in a less powerful gun when all is as good as it gets. The direct strike valved models can be tuned a bit higher than the transfer bar ones.
But the real point is to point out that there are a couple different variants during the production run, and to watch for the changes, as they may cause parts to not be correct, depending on what you are looking for, if anything.
The cylinder itself may be metal or plastic, IIRC. They can be adjusted to give the best timing possible (alignment of the cylinder and barrel) and this allows a little better power.
Mac1 Airguns site has a bit to say about the Crosman Revolvers.
I have a couple around. Fun to shoot, if you don't mind the cost of powerlets.
The 22 pellets will lay some pretty good smack on a pop bottle or can, too.
Cheers
Trev
Look at the valve body. If it's grey/white color, it's die cast Zinc. If it's yellow, it's brass. The zinc ones are a bit sensitive to having the threads torqued too much, and will strip out if not handled with some care. The brass valve bodies are not readily available.
Look at where the hammer hits the valve. Does it hit the valve directly, or does it strike a transfer bar. The transfer bar eats a tiny bit of the energy of the hammer strike, and can result in a less powerful gun when all is as good as it gets. The direct strike valved models can be tuned a bit higher than the transfer bar ones.
But the real point is to point out that there are a couple different variants during the production run, and to watch for the changes, as they may cause parts to not be correct, depending on what you are looking for, if anything.
The cylinder itself may be metal or plastic, IIRC. They can be adjusted to give the best timing possible (alignment of the cylinder and barrel) and this allows a little better power.
Mac1 Airguns site has a bit to say about the Crosman Revolvers.
I have a couple around. Fun to shoot, if you don't mind the cost of powerlets.
The 22 pellets will lay some pretty good smack on a pop bottle or can, too.
Cheers
Trev
jetrefueller
Regular
- Location
- Northern Ontario
Back in 1965 I sent a couple of crows to neverland after they woke mr at 5am with that exact pistol. It had a punch with a .22 slug and took them out from about 30 feet no problem. I've always remembered how surprised I was at the accuracy.
This is the funniest thing that I've ever read! Back in the day, please tell me it was in downtown Toronto. That'll make my day cheery.
Can I add it to my signature? I am serious.
A friend of mine had a couple of them. They were pretty cool for a youngster. I remember we were out hunting rabbits with them and he shot a bird out of the air with his. Wow! Any idea of the fps these guns could achieve?
flying_scotsman
Regular
Thanks for all the replies guys.
Tiriaq, Ga
I was able to locate the correct manual at Crosman's site. Thanks for pointing me there.
Threemorewishes: I may have to look for a re-seal kit, as the o-ring the seals the powerlet is a little chewed up.
Gandalfe: Too true. I have a newer 357 model as well, and the difference between the two is night and day.
Trevj: Thanks for the heads up. My valve body appears to be zinc, the hammer hits the valve directly, and the cylinder is metal; apparently they switched to plastic in later years. I’ll be careful if I ever have to mess with the valve body. I’ll have to check that Mac 1 site out.
Waba: Good eye, looking at the information I have thanks to those here, I believe it is. The grip is in decent shape, but the little cups that mate to the knobs on the frame are broken, otherwise it appears to be in good working order.
Pabirdman: When I have some cash to spare, I may have to pick up a reseal kit, and a left grip from you.
Thanks to the others who replied too. I can’t ask Dad what he thought of his, or what he did with it, so it’s nice to read of others’ personal experiences.
Tiriaq, Ga
I was able to locate the correct manual at Crosman's site. Thanks for pointing me there. Threemorewishes: I may have to look for a re-seal kit, as the o-ring the seals the powerlet is a little chewed up.
Gandalfe: Too true. I have a newer 357 model as well, and the difference between the two is night and day.
Trevj: Thanks for the heads up. My valve body appears to be zinc, the hammer hits the valve directly, and the cylinder is metal; apparently they switched to plastic in later years. I’ll be careful if I ever have to mess with the valve body. I’ll have to check that Mac 1 site out.
Waba: Good eye, looking at the information I have thanks to those here, I believe it is. The grip is in decent shape, but the little cups that mate to the knobs on the frame are broken, otherwise it appears to be in good working order.
Pabirdman: When I have some cash to spare, I may have to pick up a reseal kit, and a left grip from you.
Thanks to the others who replied too. I can’t ask Dad what he thought of his, or what he did with it, so it’s nice to read of others’ personal experiences.
