Unloading a single action revolver

Newfie816

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Hi all,

I have a question regarding the unloading of a single action revolver. I have a Ruger Super Blackhawk. When I slide the ejector rod back, some casing pop right out and some only come out about half way and then I have to pull it out by hand. Is this normal? Most videos I have watch the casings just pop out with hardly any force applied.
 
Maybe try some different ammo?

Many possibles here, maybe the chamber spec's vary somewhat from one to another. Or the brass thickness may be throwing a wild card into this equation. It's highly possible that this could be a combination of both factors. The added additional wrinkle is that maybe higher velocity ammunition just might compound this problem if the brass is thin enough to react by adhereing to the chamber walls, causing the expended/expanded casings to create more resistance to the extraction process. If there is rough tooling marks in the chambers this could be a cause. Very carefully polishing them out might very well help resolve this condition. This is not uncommon in some pump action shotgun chambers from the bigger manufacturers that needed to badly replace worn out tooling.

maybe or maybe not
 
I find this happens with my Uberti as well. Usually after 20 or so rnds through it . I thought it was just the residue making them a bit sticky. I just give a firm push on the ejector rod and they pop out easy enough.
 
Yup. After firing, some brass contract more than others so some fall out easily while others need some coaxing. Happens with my Ruger Vaquero.
 
I have two blackhawks and one of them does this quite regularly. The other one i have had 1/8" cut off the tip of the base pin when i purchased it. It ejects every cartridge fully everytime and the shorter pin does not appear to put any extra stress on the spring.
I wonder if ruger intentionally does this so your brass doesnt fall on the floor?
 
Very few of the guns have an ejector long enough to fully clear the cases. So you need to run the ejector with a bit of a snap to the motion. If you're slow then you're relying on gravity to help at the end of the ejector stroke. So give it a faster flick like action. You don't need force, just speed.

Holding the gun fairly strongly muzzle up helps a lot too. Same with swing out hand ejector double/single action revolvers.
 
+1 holding it up will defiantly help and cleaning the cylinder thoroughly with a wire brush and drill will help keep it clean
 
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I shorten the head to giver a little more ejection length....


File it as flat & square as you can...


Just chuck it in a drill & using a file to put a little chamfer on the edge & a little emery cloth to fine finish the end, to make it look nice...




Factory length before....


Here's the extra length after the completed alteration.

I altered a Belt Mountain base pin, but you could do the same on the factory pin.
The brass will still not be fully ejected, but is close & you won't have to snap the ejector rod as hard,.....if at all.
 
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..... and cleaning the cylinder thoroughly with a wire brush and drill will help keep it clean

On a .357 size gun a .40cal brush does a great job on the cylinder chambers. But buy them two or three at a time. Using them on a short cleaning rod extension with a hand drill tends to fold the bristles over so they are only good for so many cleanings then you'll need to switch it out. I find that a new .40cal brush is good for about a dozen serious cleanings of the cylinder then it's worn to where I demote it to more grungy duty such as back and forth cleaning down in mag wells and the like.

If you can find a little fatter and more durable short extension that will take side loads you can push the slightly loose brush around the sides of the chamber and get more life from them.

On a .44 I'd suggest using a .50Cal muzzle loader wire bore brush for the chambers. And for a 45LC gun you'd want to start with something like a 28Ga shotgun brush in order to get the bristle pressure needed to clean the chambers well.
 
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