Unpinned Ross M10 - Bolt Assembled Right?

Drachenblut

Drachenblut

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Hello,

I am soon to receive an Unpinned Ross M10 sporter. I am unsure of the easiest way to ensure that the bolt is properly assembled. I want to avoid an accident!

Any help would be appreciated,

Sincerely,
Drach
 
You might want to read and save this for future reference... :)

There's an outstanding article by "PerversPépère", on Ross M-10 Rifle Bolt Disassembly (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=298-Ross-M-10-Rifle-Bolt-Disassembly and the dangers of doing it incorrectly. It may be found under the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php...esearch-for-milsurp-collectors-and-re-loaders forum of the Milsurp Knowledge Libraries.

Regards,
Doug
 
Read and looked at, but still am unsure about if it is safe. When in the rifle, pushed forward but not cammed into place, the bolt head sits about an inch or two from the "neck" of the bolt body, and the venting hole is facing straight up. Does this help?
 
Drachenblut said:
Read and looked at, but still am unsure about if it is safe. When in the rifle, pushed forward but not cammed into place, the bolt head sits about an inch or two from the "neck" of the bolt body, and the venting hole is facing straight up. Does this help?
Click to expand...

Don't remember off the top of my head - I know it's possible to recognize an incorrectly assembled bolt, but only if you know what they're supposed to look like:p

When you put the bolt into battery (IE bolt forward, cocked and "chambering" the imaginary round), you will see the bolt head (or rather the neck below the bolt head) begin to rotate into position. That's a pretty good indicator.
 
Pull the bolt halfway back.

There should be about ONE INCH (25mm for you Imperially-challenged fellows) between the FRONT END of the BOLT SLEEVE and the REAR of the LOCKING LUGS.

The bolt can sit only two ways: ONE inch and one-QUARTER inch. Quarter-inch is deadly, one inch is SAFE, absolutely.

The rifle CANNOT get out of adjustment by itself.

In order for the rifle to get out of adjustment, you have to remove the bolt and throw the thing out of adjustment manually. On most rifles, this means removing the Extractor at the least.

There are at least half a dozen threads in this forum on the ROSS bolt and how to screw it up.
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I was hoping I could bait Smellie into replying here! :) The bolt is sitting One Inch (Yeah, Imperial is much better than metric IMHO) from the rearmost locking lug to the bolt sleeve. If you would like to see pictures and hear the tale of this Ross, PM me Smellie! Cheers, and thanks folks,
Drachenblut
 
Can't recall where I got these images, but they have been of great assistance (and comfort) to me when reassembling my unpinned Ross:

Rossbolt_Correct_sm.jpg


Rossbolt_Incorrect_sm.jpg



And while I'm at it .... in case anyone is wondering .... how to tell an "unpinned" Ross from a "pinned" one -

BOLT_UNPINNED_PINNED.jpg
 
I just use what I call my "Rule of Thumb for Rosses".

My hands aren't very big, so I can do this. You might have trouble.

I just open the bolt and lay my thumb across the interface between the bolt shank nd the bolt sleeve. If my thumb fits, it's safe.

Again, I must stress: the Ross Rifle can NOT get out of adjustment by itself. It REQUIRES human intervention.

MOST rifles can be fired in an unsafe condition if you really want to do it.... or if you are stupid enough. This goes for Lebels, Kropatscheks, Berthiers, Dutch and Romanian Mannlichers, 1888 Reichskommissionsgewehrs, '71 Mauser, '71/'84 Mauser, MOISIN-NAGANTS and even the LEE-ENFIELD. I once unscrewed a fired .303 casing from the bolt-shank of a Number 4. The rifle had been fired WITHOUT A BOLT-HEAD. Fantastic surgeons at the James Paton Memorial Hospital in Gander got all the brass out of the young guy's eyes and saved his eyesight. Bolt body was split halfway along its length, guy who owned the rifle was looking for a new bolt. I wonder why!

The Ross is a LONGway from the only rifle which is not 200% idiot-proof.

Seems that 100-percent idiot-proofing just ain't enuff no mores!
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