USGI Fiberglass stock 'work log'

Dling

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So, I'm working on a USGI fiberglass stock right now and figured maybe there are some people interested in ways of 'beatifying' the old buggers. It's still a wip so more to come!

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First I glassed in my Sadlak rail backplate after upsizing the holes and sanding away as much paint as possible:
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I sanded the interior of my forestock down to the fiberglass, wiped it down with acetone and commenced my fiberglass lay up. I laid the fiberglass up on some plastic sheeting, put a couple layers, some resin, couple more and then more resin. I then folded the other half of my plastic sheet over top. Used something like a 7/8-ish long socket and rolled it around, spreading the fiberglass evenly through the layers and removing all the air pockets. Then I used a paper template that I traced from inside my stock to cut the fiberglass to size with a sharp box cutter. End results:
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As far as the weave pattern went, in relation to length of the stock, I went parallel then 3-4 at 45 degrees and repeated. I figure reinforcing it is mostly for the torsional load put on it if I use a sling, hence the 45 degrees to parallel.

Next were the fun switch hole and op rod spring guide pin. Again, took off as much paint as I could. Then I guesstimated a proper size of insulation foam to stick in the selector switch hole (didn't bother with guide pin hole). Built up a wall with green painters tape (the lime green stuff works better than the darker green tape from my experience) and away I went!
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After round 1:
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After round 2 and some sanding and dremel work:
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This is where I'm at so far. Still needs another lay up or two of fiberglass and some air bubbles need to be filled with some more JB weld. After that I'll take it out for a range test. If all is well, then I'll proceed to the paint prep. The metal parts of the stock need to be reparkarized, so I've stolen the butt plate and rear sling point off my chicom stock. To my amusement they fit quite nicely. You'll need the chicom lower screw as the sling threads are different from the USGI ones. Just need to drill out my from sling plate now!

Couple things I'm wondering:
1) Is it taboo for the gc to touch the stock at all aside from the fb? ex if the fiberglass is too high and contacts the bottom of the gc
2) How thick is Krylon Camo paint? Will it pretty much render the grips useless if more than a couple layers are painted on?

Of course any comments, questions or criticism are welcome! Rock on! :cool:
 
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This is one of the most common ways to beef up the FG stock. Makes for a nice clean, slim profile. I've done both laying up fiberglass inside and outside(which makes for a nice beefy profile.

You might want to slightly dremel the gas cylinder area if it is affecting the fit.
 
How you finding the sadlak rail? Its heavy Im almost scared to put in on mine might go for just a sling swivel......


Im curious to hear about the krylon and the grips. My hairbrained scheme is to sand all the grip off and then stipple grips. figured Id try on the crummy norinco stock 1st....
 
This is one of the most common ways to beef up the FG stock. Makes for a nice clean, slim profile. I've done both laying up fiberglass inside and outside(which makes for a nice beefy profile.

You might want to slightly dremel the gas cylinder area if it is affecting the fit.

Dremelled the area around the gc. Going to dremel some more away to give my op rod and op rod guide clearance at some of the higher spots.

How you finding the sadlak rail? Its heavy Im almost scared to put in on mine might go for just a sling swivel......


Im curious to hear about the krylon and the grips. My hairbrained scheme is to sand all the grip off and then stipple grips. figured Id try on the crummy norinco stock 1st....

I don't find it bad. Mind you I've never hauled a rifle round the bush and I'm not a small guy either. Weighed the stock after my final fiberglass lay up and it's sitting at 3.5lbs with the metal bits installed.

I'm just worried about wearing the grips out by sanding them with anything right now. Still more work to go before I paint though so I can hopefully think of something before them that's less time consuming then running a knife through 'em.
 
. I'm just worried about wearing the grips out by sanding them with anything right now. Still more work to go before I paint though so I can hopefully think of something before them that's less time consuming then running a knife through 'em.

When I did mine I used Citri strip to remove the old paint and a toothbrush to get in the checkering. A coat of bedliner and 2 of krylon still let it feel grippy.
 
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I'm just worried about wearing the grips out by sanding them with anything right now. Still more work to go before I paint though so I can hopefully think of something before them that's less time consuming then running a knife through 'em.

If you are not happy with the grip and/or worried about it being filled in(which actually won't be too bad), you can consider smearing on light coats of steel epoxy and teasing it to give it a stippled/low stucco effect for grip.
 
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