Using 00 Buck balls as ammo in .36

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Duncan71

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Hey all,

Im going to buy a 1851 Navy revolver from Marstar tommorow but am undecided on which to get. .44 or .36? Stopping power and effectiveness obviously does not matter (paper target shooting) so I would prefer to go with the .36 for less costs of operating but I dont know if .36 lead balls are as easy to find? Iv heard shotgun buckshot ammo can be used. Is this true? Which should I buy? Opinions?

Thanks guys!
 
I know guys who have used shot and had good results, but I just buy .375 round balls for my 1851. As long as it's bigger than the bore size you should be fine. You should always get a ring shaved off the ball when you load it - that way you know it's tight in the chamber!
 
Its not so much the bore size as the chamber size. The balls you use should shave a ring of lead when you push them down into the chambers. For my gun .375 is OK, others need .380 balls which are harder to find if you don't cast your own.

If they don't have a tight fit, they can back out under recoil and you can get a "chain fire" situation. (think 2-6 cylinders going off at once!)
 
Duncan71 said:
Hey all,

Im going to buy a 1851 Navy revolver from Marstar tommorow but am undecided on which to get. .44 or .36? Stopping power and effectiveness obviously does not matter (paper target shooting) so I would prefer to go with the .36 for less costs of operating but I dont know if .36 lead balls are as easy to find? Iv heard shotgun buckshot ammo can be used. Is this true? Which should I buy? Opinions?

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

I understand it to be an 1851 Colt of Navy caliber. Navy caliber is .36. In .44 it is just an 1851 Colt. Gurus, please correct me if I am wrong on this.
 
Chain firing

MauserMike said:
Its not so much the bore size as the chamber size. The balls you use should shave a ring of lead when you push them down into the chambers. For my gun .375 is OK, others need .380 balls which are harder to find if you don't cast your own.

If they don't have a tight fit, they can back out under recoil and you can get a "chain fire" situation. (think 2-6 cylinders going off at once!)
Click to expand...

Make sure you seal the top of each ball with crisco or some other paste type of lube. A "ring" cut from the ball doea not ensure that the gun will not chain fire!

Cheers!
 
Ya, I do that too. Its messier than using lubricated wads under the balls but the grease keeps the gun running nicely for up to 100 shots in my experience. But it won't do any good if the balls come lose.
 
I'm not sure how much grease is left over the next to be fired ball after the first shot. Probably better than nothing though. My Belgian made 1860reproduction does well for not jamming up with fouling.
You read the original instructions for these revolvers, they were used dry.
 
OOO Balls maybe...?

I wonder if OOO buck would do? They are larger than OO. You would have to try it of course but I got the idea from a conversation I had with someone who did exactly that. I seem to remember that he used toilet paper (unused) to fill the size difference.

Cheers.
 
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I don't see how you can expect a patched ball to jump the cylinder gap and be able to engage the rifling.

It might work but I don't image the accuracy is going to be anything to brag about.
 
Lyman offers a .375" round ball mould. You can usually find good used single cavity models on eBay for around $20.00 Start casting balls for yourself! More fun and more authentic and after a couple hundred shots you've basically paid for your mould and sundry casting gear.

Just about everyone has an old Coleman camp stove kicking around, and probably a cast iron pot and an old soup ladle too, (if not, hit the thrift stores!) - those items, along with a bucket of wheel weights and you're good to go (proper safety equipment is a must, i.e., eye protection, insulated leather work gloves/welders gloves, long sleeve cotton shirt and work boots).
 
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