Using cheap bullets to work up loads

Tak

Tak

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So I just bought a box of accubond .308 180 gr bullets. for my 300 win mag.

These certainly aren't free.

I was wondering If I could work up my loads close to the final load with cheaper, similar bullets. I would do the fine tuning with the accubond ones.

I know it wond end up being the very same, but do people do this sometimes ? Or do I just have to suck it up, get the wallet out and throw 20-30 rounds of accubond bullets per rifle (2) in a range butt ? :p


BTW, if you think it's possible, wich bullet would you recommand that has similar ballistic properties.

Thanks
JP
 
This can certainly be done,however you could work up a load with a similar bullet,only to discover that the Accubond does not shoot nearly as accurately with that load.Then again,the Accubond might produce more pressure than a similar bullet.

If I was going that route,I would use the ballistic tip,as they seem to perform the closest to the Accubond in my rifles.The SST looks similar,and is considerably cheaper to buy,but they certainly don't shoot the same in my rifles.
 
Cheap bullets will get you on the page, and work out load for velocity. There is small chance that the jackets of your quality bullet will be harder or the bearing surface on the barrel will be longer, and your load will be a little hot with your quality bullet, but I have never seen this. It is standard procedure to back off a few grains when you change bullets. Personally I would load a couple of good bullets and fire them over the chronograph, and if the velocity is the same, and there are no signs of pressure, it would be good enough for me. If I did not have a chronograpy, I would just look for pressure signs. You may have to have a slight scope adjustment when you go to the quality bullet. There are many cheap bullets that give excellent accuracy.
 
If you have your heart set on the Accubond, you are probably better off just sucking it up and using the bullets. Not many .300s won't shoot with a 180 and a stiff load of RL22, so you can probably make your money back by getting it right the first time. If I were a betting man, I'd put my money on 75 grains.:D
 
There is small chance that the jackets of your quality bullet will be harder or the bearing surface on the barrel will be longer, and your load will be a little hot with your quality bullet, but I have never seen this.
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I have seen this a few times.The most dramatic example was with the Swift Scirocco.It looks similar to the ballistic tip that I was using in the rifle,but it showed pressure signs with 2 grains less powder,and I wasn't able to achieve the same velocity as with the ballistic tip.

You may have to have a slight scope adjustment when you go to the quality bullet.
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In some rifles,I have had to make adjustments of up to 3" at 100 yards when switching bullets,even with the same bullet weight and velocity.

There are many cheap bullets that give excellent accuracy.
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True,but the higher priced hunting bullet might not shoot nearly as accurately with the identical components other than the bullet itself.
 
There are many cheap bullets that give excellent accuracy.
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It's easier to make a simple bullet cheaper and better than a more complex bullet. Which is why you don't see match bullets with bonded cores, partitions, locking rings, plastic tips and a propeller. At close range you up your odds by leaveing off the boattail as well. Even a crimping groove is too much additional blacksmithing.
 
I think you should test a load with all the specific components for that load. Anything else is just a guess. I want my hunting loads to be as close to max as possible with the appropriate accuracy. If I am close to max I want all components tested. If you don't push the max limits, I suppose you will get away with switching almost all the time. "Almost" is not something I mess with when I reload.
 
just bought a box of balistic tip 180 gr. I'll work my loads up to close to final and then finish up with the accubond. If the result is good, I'll do it with my other 300. If not, I'll just use the ballistic tips for my 3006 and work my loads up with the accubonds. Will see how it goes. I'll post results when I get them. I don't have a chrony but as far as accuracy goes I should be able to tell the difference.
 
I have often used the Speer SPFB offerings to work up loads for the equivalent Nosler Partition. However, I always back down a grain before switching to the Partition, and then come up again watching for any issues. I also use the Ballistic Tip to work up for the Accubond. One caution here. The Accubond has a heavier jacket and a slightly longer bearing surface than the Ballistic Tip, so one must be cautious when switching over. Regards, Eagleye.
 
In some rifles,I have had to make adjustments of up to 3" at 100 yards when switching bullets,even with the same bullet weight and velocity.



I would call a 3 inch adjustment a small adjustment when just changing bullets. I have seen rifles that might not hit the target at 100 yards when you change several variables at once, like primer, powder, bullet weight and case...If I shot a nice little group that just needed to be moved 3 inches with the expensive bullets, I would be pretty happy.
 
i would suck it up and use the componets you want to develop a load with,, otherwise you are guessing, i dont buy into the more expensive bullets being any better, the proof is in the shooting ,,wade
 
I've found that, in the end, it's best to suck it up and develop loads with whatever components you plan on using as your final product. There are just too many variables otherwise.
 
Yep. You load for the bullet weight, not who made it. However, you really should work up the load with the components you plan using. Of course, the game won't be any deader using a premium bullet.
 
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