Using LPP in place of LRP ? Why not
- Thread starter 45C
- Start date
Because they don't stand up to the same pressures as LRP or so the rumor goes.
I've used them in the past and again recently, but only in cases generating 40k psi or close to it.
Last summer, I had a primer disintegrate on a 223 load, still haven't figured out how that happened. It was suggested here that it was possible a small pistol primer had been inserted instead of a small rifle primer. All of the primers came from the same sleeve, which had been freshly opened to make up that batch of ammunition.
499 out of 500 cartridges worked perfectly out of that batch.
If you're going to use Large Pistol Primers in your Rifle cartridges, use your big head and stick around minimum pressures. You could try different loads, starting at a minimum and working up one grain at a time until you notice extreme flattening or cratering.
I don't know, because I haven't tried to use them with Magnum rounds, whether the min spec charge would be dangerous or not.
A few decades back, we had another dearth of components. Primers were the hardest to find and very expensive when we did.
I used Large Magnum Pistol primers in my 338-06, 30-06 and 7-08.
I used the same process I suggested to you, other than I started out with "standard" rather than magnum primers and found I couldn't get consistent ignition. So, I switched to "Magnum" primers and the consistent ignition problem went away.
I worked up the loads until the primers started flattening more than I was comfortable with, or as in the 7-08 there was very obvious cratering around the firing pin indent.
Backing off a couple of grains fixed the issues and when push came to shove for the 30-06 and 338-06 the loads didn't change from what I had been using previously. For the 7-08 it was a different story. The powder charge of W760 I used had to be reduced 10% to 45 grains, under 140 grain bullets. I should have stopped a bit sooner, but the action is strong and has a good gas escape system, so I pushed it. My bad, I was much younger back then and did it even though I knew better.
You need to be very careful with such things. Experiment with caution and you should be OK.
Some online sources say the only difference between the pistol and rifle primer cups is the propellant type. I don't know.
This is another occasion where Ganderite, who has experience with such goings on could clarify the issue. Whether he would be willing to go out on that limb or not?
I've used them in the past and again recently, but only in cases generating 40k psi or close to it.
Last summer, I had a primer disintegrate on a 223 load, still haven't figured out how that happened. It was suggested here that it was possible a small pistol primer had been inserted instead of a small rifle primer. All of the primers came from the same sleeve, which had been freshly opened to make up that batch of ammunition.
499 out of 500 cartridges worked perfectly out of that batch.
If you're going to use Large Pistol Primers in your Rifle cartridges, use your big head and stick around minimum pressures. You could try different loads, starting at a minimum and working up one grain at a time until you notice extreme flattening or cratering.
I don't know, because I haven't tried to use them with Magnum rounds, whether the min spec charge would be dangerous or not.
A few decades back, we had another dearth of components. Primers were the hardest to find and very expensive when we did.
I used Large Magnum Pistol primers in my 338-06, 30-06 and 7-08.
I used the same process I suggested to you, other than I started out with "standard" rather than magnum primers and found I couldn't get consistent ignition. So, I switched to "Magnum" primers and the consistent ignition problem went away.
I worked up the loads until the primers started flattening more than I was comfortable with, or as in the 7-08 there was very obvious cratering around the firing pin indent.
Backing off a couple of grains fixed the issues and when push came to shove for the 30-06 and 338-06 the loads didn't change from what I had been using previously. For the 7-08 it was a different story. The powder charge of W760 I used had to be reduced 10% to 45 grains, under 140 grain bullets. I should have stopped a bit sooner, but the action is strong and has a good gas escape system, so I pushed it. My bad, I was much younger back then and did it even though I knew better.
You need to be very careful with such things. Experiment with caution and you should be OK.
Some online sources say the only difference between the pistol and rifle primer cups is the propellant type. I don't know.
This is another occasion where Ganderite, who has experience with such goings on could clarify the issue. Whether he would be willing to go out on that limb or not?
Last edited:
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Aren’t pierced primers and bolt face damage a concern with using LPP in full or higher power rifle loads? I seem to remember that from a couple threads on the same topic, reduced and cast loads some people were saying they had zero issues. Obviously any handgun cartridge used in rifles should be fine, 357, 44mag etc etc.
Looks like S&B has a "one size fits all" prier selection. So you are probably good to go in that case. Not all manufacturers do, though. I have used SR and SRM primers in revolver cartridges but not oin striker fired handguns as the primer cup may be harder and won't ignite. I've gotten away with using SP primers in .223 but it wasn't on purpose ( accidently used a SP tube instead)
I wouldn't use a LP primer in a rifle cartridge because of possible pressure issues, pierced primer issues and possibly lack of sufficient flash to properly ignite the powder.
But all manufacturers are different. What works for one may not work with another and vice versa.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
No problems with small rifle primers in 9mm, 10mm striker fired pistols. Both my stock Glock and M&P ignite them fine, I’ve always read it’s revolvers with lighter aftermarket springs that have issues with light strikes. Can’t remember if I loaded any in my small primer .45acp brass but I don’t see why it would be any different.
S&B primers are NOT "one size fits all". You have to look at the end flap on the box to determine which are which.
^This!
I have done it fireforming brass and as a lark. Pierced primers and leakage around the cup was common. Since they can move around much more than an LR it shouldn't be a surprise. Some guys have claimed success with it but I had nothing but issues and concern. There are instances where it would probably be fine but I am nowhere near desperate enough to bother.
Large rifle primers are 0.008" thicker than a large pistol primer.
Large rifle is a hundredth of an inch taller for large rifle vs large pistol.
0.115 to 0.126 for large pistol
0.129 to 0.136 for large rifle
Pocket depth:
0.117 to 0.123 pistol
0.125 to 0.132 rifle
The "danger" is a peirced primer and a scored bolt face.
Large rifle is a hundredth of an inch taller for large rifle vs large pistol.
0.115 to 0.126 for large pistol
0.129 to 0.136 for large rifle
Pocket depth:
0.117 to 0.123 pistol
0.125 to 0.132 rifle
The "danger" is a peirced primer and a scored bolt face.
migrant hunter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
I use large pistol primers in black powder cartridges and in reduced loads with unique and cast bullets. Wouldn't be keen on going full power loads, although I know it's been done.
