using the Swiss Products K31 Clamp on scope mount. Questions inside.

JR Hartman

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Hey, so I'd like to stretch the legs on my K31, and I simply cannot see well enough to do it with my aging Mk1 eyeballs anymore.

I do not want to drill my K31 receiver.

I have heard that the steel Swiss Products clamp on mount is good, and it holds zero well. This is great, but I am not sure if I can get used to shooting with the scope hanging out way over to the right.

Now, for those that use it, does it work or is it always weird? I have other rifles with more conventional scope mounting and I am not sure how it would be to shoot with that big horizontal offset.

And secondly, could one adapt the scope mounting point back over to the center of the rifle by putting on an offset adapter? Like something that AR-15 people use for iron sights or something? Or is it just simply a no go due to the needed space for ejection? I don't care that it won't fling out 60 feet anymore, and in fact I'd rather not go chasing the brass all over the place and finding half of it dented to boot. If it will eject properly every time I am fine with that.

thoughts? Reasons? actual experience?

thank you all.
 
I have the side mount bolt-on scope mount on one of my K31s and though it is a little awkward at first, you do get used to it. My first set of rings had the brass hitting the scope tube and this may or may not have lead to killing the Zeiss Terra I had on it (Zeiss replaced the scope), but now I have a wider ring and the brass hits it and not the tube, though I am using an older Bushnell.

Another fellow at my range had the CSC top mount and it really makes the scope sit quite high - I would have a harder time adjusting to that without a cheek riser versus the side mount. Either way, unless you gingerly open the bolt and dig out the brass with your finger, your brass will get dented.
 
For dented brass, just ease on Bolt before brass hits the ejector.

I'll let other people answer before I get into the over bore (non)-issue.
 
I have the SP steel clamp on side mount with steel Burris .22 /1 " rings and a 6x Leupold..............no issues.Harold
 
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Do you actually have the mount in your possession right now? If not, my advice, which you can ignore, is to get the alloy version rather than the steel. Talking to Latigo St Pierre last year, seems that alloy outnumbers steel by ca. 70/30.

As Diopter notes, hauling back on the bolt like trying to pull the sword out of the stone will get you dings on both scope and brass, so go easy. Parashooter on the swissrifle.com site made a nifty and easy to make deflector out of a piece of brass, works a treat.

Remember that you'll need 11mm rings - Warne and Leupold make good ones - I have sets of each. Depending on which scope you fit, try to get the lowest mounts/rings you can - that will help mitigate the initially odd sensation of looking over the right-hand side of the action, bearing in mind that the bell of the scope has to clear the backsight.

Another 'help' is a cheek riser, and again, this is the brainchild of another member on swissrifles.com - Peter Ogden, a very fine leatherworker known as czechmauseritis. Many of us have fitted one of these as well. His address can be got from Diopter or me if you are interested.

tac
 
thanks! I knew there would be good stuff.

now, a couple of points. My dented brass isn't in the side of the case from it hitting anything, its just that it seems like half the time the mouth of the case hits something hard, be in the cement floor or a metal part of the shooting area at the range. If I just work the bolt slower its fine.

Also, I like the fact that it uses 11mm dovetail as I currently have a scope on my CZ that has the same, so I can share the scope or at least use it for a trial fit.

Now, you say that I should get the aluminum one not the steel one. Why is this? It seems to me that the steel one would be more in keeping with the date and purpose of the rifle. Is it the weight or is there something better about the aluminum one?
 
Also less than half the weight, and STILL in keeping with the date and purpose of the gun. Even the K11 has an alloy component...

They are otherwise totally identical in every way.

tac
 
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