Vortex turret question

derk22

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So I have an hs-t on my 700p and I zeroed at 700 however when I installed the zero stop shims ( which was easy) the turret will not slid all the way down to 1 on its rotation counter. In fact it stops at two! Shouldn't this all go back to zero?
 
First a question. Why did you zero your scope for 700?
Anyway,whatever range tou zero your scipe at, once you instal the shims, you put the turret back on with the "0" at the counter mark, not whereever it was when you took it off.
 
A little confused by how your question is worded as well. It is possible the answer lays in the fact that the CRS shim system on this model is not a true "zero"stop. When returning to zero after a shoot that required changing the elevation, this (simple and economic) zero stop system allows the user to return elevation to the vicinity of the set zero: Some effort will be required to remember this from a true zero stop and ensure the notches line up on the zero. I've got an HS-T and a PST with the CRS stop and like this economical and simple solution for remembering zero.
 
Sorry guys I'm right out to lunch. I meant to say I zeroed at 100. I know the zero stop goes slightly passed zero and that's not my main problem. It's the fact that the rotation lines says it's at two rotations when I reinstalled the turret. It won't sit any lower on the 1 line. I can upload pics later if that helps. I was thinking maybe I need a custom turret since it's on a 20 Moa base.
 
I think what derk is trying to say is there is a set of horizontal lines centered on the turret cap and the cap rests in the middle of those instead of the first line showing no rotations (when at zero). However i think that is in relation to the shims holding it higher up.
 
are you talking about the lines marked on the turret body and not the dial? The shims prevent the the dial from going down on the body any farther than your set zero
 
Not clear on the question but if everything works out on the mounts/bases/zero and installation of the CRS stop, you will be somewhat "in the middle" of the horizontal lines located under the turret cap on the "neck" of the turret. IIRC mine is about or near horizontal line 2 on a 4-5 rotation turret.

If you are good you should have almost a 1/4 to 1/2 rotation(of the red optic bar) past the actual zero and likely about 18-20 mrad of come ups from your zero on a 700 with a 20 moa
 
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I think what derk is trying to say is there is a set of horizontal lines centered on the turret cap and the cap rests in the middle of those instead of the first line showing no rotations (when at zero). However i think that is in relation to the shims holding it higher up.

Yup you nailed it that's my problem! Is this just the nature of the beast?
 
Sorry guys I'm right out to lunch. I meant to say I zeroed at 100. I know the zero stop goes slightly passed zero and that's not my main problem. It's the fact that the rotation lines says it's at two rotations when I reinstalled the turret. It won't sit any lower on the 1 line. I can upload pics later if that helps. I was thinking maybe I need a custom turret since it's on a 20 Moa base.

That makes much more sense. I have the Vortex pst which has the same zero stop system. The little lines on the turret body show all the possible rotations from top to bottom not where you ,are zeroed. There are 5 total rotations so if you are showing two lines under the cap then you are fairly close to center of adjustment which is where you want to be, while the 0 line is the bottom of the adjustment range and the 5 line is the top of the adjustment range. This will leave you with about 12-15 mils of come up which is lots, for example the software tells me that my .243 should get out to 700 yards with just 5 mils of come up. Haven't had a chance to take it out that far yet but it has been good out to 500 so far.
 
The allen keyed set screws, set into a v-notch on the circumference of the turret beneath the cap: When I set mine, the rubber seal created a fairly strong pressure chamber which finally gave to my increased force, so that the notch and set screw would be in alignment. Obviously this cannot be seen with the cap in place, but it is possible that you are experiencing the same air pressure buildup and resistance to correct re-installation of the dial and the set screws are not set in the v-notch. Just a simple thing that is easy to miss, which might be the cause. Of course both my scopes are sitting on 0 moa bases... so I may not be visualizing the problem correctly.
 
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