W.W. Greener hammer gun restoration

N

North of 58

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
16   0   0
I picked up this damascus hammer gun for shooting black powder and reduced nitro loads. Once I confirm that it is a shooter I would like to restore it to its original look. It was made in 1889. The bores and metal look to have little wear and the stock is very nice. It locks up fairly tight. I have seen some outstanding damascus guns, such as those posted by Mark Dube, on this site. How should I go about removing the current finish on the metal? What is used to bring out the pattern on the barrels. There looks to be a nice pattern under the blue. Can anyone recommend a smith for case hardening the action? Thank you. Any comments on the gun, good or bad are welcome.
GreenerLeftLock.jpg

Greenerstockright3.jpg

Greeneractionflat.jpg

Greenerbarrelflats.jpg

Greenerforend.jpg
 
Great looking gun, a classic English hammer gun. Congratulations.

I know that damascus barrels with visible pattern are sometimes referred to as "acid etched" and the name alone would cause me to seek a professional.

There are two Ontario gunsmiths I'd seek out if this gun were mine and they are Les Paul in Oshawa and Nick Makinson in Komoka near London. I don't have contact info for Makinson but here's a link for Les Paul (suitably chilled to remain within board rules)

ht tp://www.leslieapaul-gunmakers.com/entry.htm

Just remember though that any English-trained gunsmith will charge fees that make an English-trained auto mechanic look like a bargain but I've had work done by Les Paul and seen some from Makinson. You get what you pay for but be prepared for some sticker shock and a considerable wait depending on what the gun needs.:eek:
 
It would look better with Browned barrels, there is also a place in BC.
Stuart Newby 604 740 3725 Most of the work I have seen has been good
John
 
Bob, that's a beauty!

Those sculpted hammers are exspecially nice.

The wood appears to have been cleaned and re-oiled, and looks quite respectable.

The blue on the barrels looks like cold blue, if no polishing, filing, nor chemical cleaning was done, some pattern will remain under there.

The lock plates appear to have some texture in the photos, so they probably were not polished either.

I would go slow, 0000 steel wool and a good oil (I use G96) will remove the cold blue fairly quickly. Take your time, and pay attention, you will reach a point when the iron component of the damascus on the barrels is still dark but the steel swirls will develop a lustre.

Removing the new finish on the lock plates the same way will leave dark colouration in the engraving, just stop before the surouning area shines.

Graham Greener will respond to an e-mail query, with all available info on your gun very promptly.

I have a few "nitro-for-black" loads that i trust, we will find one for you.

Enjoy the new toy

Mark
 
Thank you all for your comments. If it came from the factory without the blue then I think I would like to bring the damascus pattern out. There is just something about nicely finished damascus barrels.
Claybuster, I know what you mean about the costs to restore it. Browning the barrels and case hardening the action would cost more than what I paid for the gun. I wonder how good the cold liquid browning solution is.
Mark, thank you for your offer of the load data. A friend who shoots clays with a group of guys using black powder gave me 4 boxes of the loads they use. The reloads use 2 3/4" hulls but that shouldn't raise the pressures too much. Black powder is fine for occasional BP hammer gun shoots but for day to day shooting I would prefer a very light nitro load. I don't have shotshell reloading equipment but I may have time to pick one up next weekend. I bought a case of 2 1/2" Gamebore for my other short chambered guns so I do have some hulls for the short shells. The GB kick pretty hard, fine for the Parker and Fox, but a little more than I want to use on the English guns. Do you use 2 1/2" hulls for your loads?
I think the gun was rust blued. The blue is too thick and high quality for a cold blue. When I took the lock plate off the blue was on the inside of the plate and the action under the bar is also blued. I don't think there was much polishing done to the action and barrels before or between the coats of rust blue which gives it the rough look. Will that change how I should remove the blue? If the pattern is not distinct should I cold blue it with a dark blue and use steel wool and oil repeatedly until it looks good? Thank you for the advice. By the way, did you pick up the Linder Daly you were looking at?
 
She is a beauty and something to hold onto.

I have had work done by Nick Makinson - first class and honest.

I have also had work done by Stuart Newby 5 years ago when he lived in Ontario, great work but don't expect to pay the price you are quoted. Had 2 guns restored by him and both times prices were higher went the job was completed. Needless to say I did not go back. Had a few friends experience the same outcome.

Good luck on the quest.
 
I'd shoot the gun as is...it's a beauty, i have a similar 2 1/2", which i use for hunting and reload only Black Powder and cut down hulls, i use 1 1/8 oz. of lead or bismuth, no plastic wads, just card and felt,the felt wads are soaked in BP lube, and 70-90 grs of 2fg Goex, got my first goose with that gun this year.
 
You found yourself a beauty alright, North. Decent wood! I can see why you'd want to restore the metal. Not that it looks bad as is, but with the damascus pattern fully restored and the action case hardened, she'd be a show piece.

Strange that whoever did the blueing left the barrel flats and the underside ahead of there untouched.

SS
 
Greener

Thanks for all your comments. Its nice to see someone pulled this old post back to the top. I can tell you a bit more about the gun now. Graham Greener pulled the records and told me it was started in February 7th, 1889 and completed May 18th. The wood is likely original, since the length of pull, drop at comb, original horn inlay in the forearm, horn butt plate and checkering patterns all match the records and pictures of this model. I've fired the gun with Gamebore 2 1/2", 1 oz. nitro loads with no problems. I think those are around 6500 psi. I just tried some of those to prove out the gun, since I bought a reloader I'll load up some in the 5000 range. Most of the low pressure nitro loads have problems in cold weather and I haven't shot it in awhile. Haven't tried the black powder yet. The thinning blue under the forend is my fault, I took enough off to check the damascus pattern. It can't be seen with the forend on. I'm undecided on whether I should strip off the blue. It was originally browned and case hardened but I prefer the American style black and silver damascus blue to the browned barrels. If I do that it won't be original anyway so maybe I''ll leave it. Any other pictures of hammer guns out there? Please share what you have of the oldtimers. I picked up a Parker Brothers 10 gauge hammer gun with laminated barrels made in 1893 a month or two ago that I'll post when I get some decent pictures. Its in very good shape and I'm hoping I can use it on geese next year. Thanks again.

Bob
 
Parkers

Those are a couple of beauties, Snow Dog. The twist barrels on the bottom and the damascus on the top have the American style of blacking on barrels that I like. It just wouldn't really look right on a British gun. I have a Ithaca Minier in excellent original condition with twist steel barrels and they look great. I don't feel rushed on deciding what to do with my Greener, its been around 117 years, using it the way it is for a while won't hurt.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom