WD40 PTFE Spray as case lube

DaveMachine

DaveMachine

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
29   0   0
Location
That one place with a cowboy complex
So, a few months ago I bought some WD40 Specialist dry lube w/ PTFE as a release agent for a stock I bedded and that worked really well for that application. Fast forward to yesterday, I was getting a substantial amount of brass ready to go for reloading and I noticed I was out of the usual RCBS spray-on case lube that I typically use for re-sizing. Being a bit impatient, I decided to give the WD40 PTFE spray a try on a small number of cases to see how it worked. The WD40 spray worked great for those initial cases - it gave smooth sizing and was quick to apply. Next, I tried a larger batch of cases, and no issues there. One problem I've always had with spray-on case lube of any type is the occasional dented case from too much lube on the case which would require me to clean the sizing die out every so often. I've noticed, at least with this inital batch of approximately 1000 pcs of brass is that when using the WD40 PTFE spray is that I never once had to stop resizing due to cases being dented. The last benefit to using this spray is the cost - I can pick up a can at Cambodian Tire for roughly $10 as opposed to $20-30 for other spray-on case lubes.

My reloading process:

1 - Quickly wash cases with a quick dunk in hot soapy water to remove any dirt/debris. Dry cases before lube/resize.
2 - Spray on case lube
3 - Resize
4 - Wet tumble with dish soap and lemi-shine
5 - Everything else (trimming, primer pocket swaging, etc)

Anyone else have experience using this product to re-size cases?

Obviously, follow all warning labels. Spray this stuff outside and wear some rubber gloves when handling cases coated in PTFE.

TL;DR version: WD40 Specialist dry lube w/ PTFE is cheaper and works better (in my opinion) that conventional spray-on case lubes.

Links:

WD40 - https://www.princessauto.com/en/det...ust-resistant-dry-lube-ptfe-spray/A-p8560351e
Hornady OneShot - https://www.amazon.ca/Hornady-Shot-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3NJ8SND9PKD16R47ZDMG
RCBS - http://www.wholesalesports.com/stor.../Reloading/Lube/Case-Slick-Spray-Lube/p/86721
 
10-1 ratio
99% isopropyl aclcohol and Liquid lanolin.
Check it out on the ultimate reloader website. I saw that and switched recently and it's awesome
 
I found all these parts at local pharmacies.
Out of town currently so I can't Remember the brand names, but I remember paying about 5$ for 500 ml of isopropyl alcohol and the liquid lanolin was about 20 bucks for 4 fluid ounces. I've got lots leftover for more batches with what I bought. As I said, check out the ultimate reloader website.
 
Vitamart dot ca. $12.97 for the first three - deal on the 4th. Free shipping over $49 and you can get $5 off your first order.
 
meathook said:
10-1 ratio
99% isopropyl aclcohol and Liquid lanolin.
Check it out on the ultimate reloader website. I saw that and switched recently and it's awesome
Click to expand...

Not water soluable. I made it up and when I went to wet tumble it off it turned into a gawd awful coating! A long soak in gasoline got it all off
 
DaveMachine said:
Because feeding ammo coated with a layer of grease into your rifle will negatively affect function?
Click to expand...

Perhaps after several hundred rounds it may. But if you clean your rifle even a fraction as meticulously as you do your brass then there will likely be no problem. Anyway I shall now digress.
 
meathook said:
Perhaps after several hundred rounds it may. But if you clean your rifle even a fraction as meticulously as you do your brass then there will likely be no problem. Anyway I shall now digress.
Click to expand...

I expect a rifle to function for more than several hundred rounds without cleaning. If you're having to clean your rifles/pistols/shotguns that much then perhaps there's a problem that you should look into - like poorly made reloads. As for my cleaning process, there's nothing meticulous about leaving brass in a wet tumbler.
 
Last edited:
DaveMachine said:
Lee case lube? Are you talking about this stuff? http://leeprecision.com/resizing-lube-1-tube.html

Maybe it's not a pain for 50 cases but if you are reloading more than that it's faster to use a spray-on product.
Click to expand...

Use Ganderites fool proof method

Ganderite said:
Carbide dies don't need lube for straight wall pistol cases. That said, I tend to tumble my 9mm brass with a shot of silicon spray lube to make things easier. It comes off when I tumble clean the cases, later.

I size thousands of 223 cases in my Lee Carbide die. Here is how I lube a hundred cases at a time:

If you are sizing a few cases, the case lube technique does not matter very much. If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds.

I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.

Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.

lubebrass1.jpg


Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.

lubebrass.jpg


Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Wd-40 might make a decent lube but are there any contents that degrade powder? I'd hate to load some ammo and go to use it a few months later only to find out they're duds when there is an animal in the crosshairs. Is saving ten bucks a year worth it?
 
meathook said:
Why bother cleaning it again?
I see no benefit other than trying to pick flycrap out of pepper.
Click to expand...

I believe the "kaboom" zuke is referring to is related to pressure spikes. To be specific, i have read that not cleaning the lube off your case after sizings stops the brass from grabbing onto the wall of your chamber, causing a significant increase in pressure and potentially leading to "kaboom."
 
Seeker2 said:
I believe the "kaboom" zuke is referring to is related to pressure spikes. To be specific, i have read that not cleaning the lube off your case after sizings stops the brass from grabbing onto the wall of your chamber, causing a significant increase in pressure and potentially leading to "kaboom."
Click to expand...

^ This is why your reloads should be cleaned of lube. The issue however isn't due to pressure (there is no mechanism related to excess lube that will increase the rate of gas generated by powder ignition) it is due to increased bolt thrust. Biged has interesting article supporting this assertion. Will it cause a kaboom - not sure but it was enough to have me removing excess lube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom