I am trying to load some .243 win. ammo for a sporter wt. bbl. on a Savage. It's a good shooting rifle, but I want to make my reloads fairly consistant. I am sure some of you weigh your brass. How much variance do you allow? I have virgin Winchester brass that is as much as 4 gr. spread from lightest to heaviest. Any advice is appreciated!
weighing brass
- Thread starter the wrench
- Start date
As you are aware, weighing brass is ONE of the things that can be done to reduce variables in your ammuntion. It can make a difference if precision shooting is involved, particularly long range shooting, where velocity variations result in vertical stringing. Weighing and sorting is a one time operation, so if you are prepared to take the time, why not? You could try for plus or minus a half grain - a one grain spread. Just keep your cases separated in batches once they've been sorted.
As Tiraq says, If you want consistant weight for your brass, buy a couple of hundred and you wil usually find at least 50 that are within 1/2 grain of each other. Separate them into close weighing groups and go from there. Remember to use the same weight brass to practice with as you hunt with. Better yet, if it really is a point of concern, buy match brass. It wll still need to be weighed but your batches will be within 2/10 grain of each other. bearhunter
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
The purpose of weighing brass is to use weight as an indicator of case volume. Not a good idea.
If you want to measure case volume, measure case volume.
When using US commercial brass, there is enough variation in the extractor groove machining to give you the 1/2 gr variance on a 308 size case. How important is the extractor groove?
However, the same batch of brass measured nearly identical volumes AND shot extremely small groups.
Fireform the brass. Trim to same OAL. Deburr and prep as normal. Fill one case to the brim with an extremely fine powder (H4227, H680 or any Win ball powder, similar). Tap the case to make sure it is as full as possible.
Dump into another case, tap. If there is any appreciable difference in case volume (1/8" more or less), mark the case as suspect. Repeat through the batch of brass. I put them into a loading block and it only takes a few minutes to test 50cases.
Odds are you will find very few that vary in volume however, if you weigh the brass, approx 30 to 50% will be 1/2gr off on a 308 size case.
I will shoot the brass and if there are any fliers the brass gets marked. Repeat, and the brass is culled.
In shooting alot of Win, Rem and Fed brass, I have found that as long as a sample of a lot# shoots well, sorting more from that lot is pointless.
I have very consistent and accurate brass through testing this way and shooting at distance.
Some groups shot at 345yds with Win brass sorted this way.
Jerry
If you want to measure case volume, measure case volume.
When using US commercial brass, there is enough variation in the extractor groove machining to give you the 1/2 gr variance on a 308 size case. How important is the extractor groove?
However, the same batch of brass measured nearly identical volumes AND shot extremely small groups.
Fireform the brass. Trim to same OAL. Deburr and prep as normal. Fill one case to the brim with an extremely fine powder (H4227, H680 or any Win ball powder, similar). Tap the case to make sure it is as full as possible.
Dump into another case, tap. If there is any appreciable difference in case volume (1/8" more or less), mark the case as suspect. Repeat through the batch of brass. I put them into a loading block and it only takes a few minutes to test 50cases.
Odds are you will find very few that vary in volume however, if you weigh the brass, approx 30 to 50% will be 1/2gr off on a 308 size case.
I will shoot the brass and if there are any fliers the brass gets marked. Repeat, and the brass is culled.
In shooting alot of Win, Rem and Fed brass, I have found that as long as a sample of a lot# shoots well, sorting more from that lot is pointless.
I have very consistent and accurate brass through testing this way and shooting at distance.
Some groups shot at 345yds with Win brass sorted this way.
Jerry
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Great post Jerry!
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
I prefer to use match primers. Fed 210M or CCI BR2 for most LR application. Fed 215M for magnum cases. For SR cases, the BR4 and CCI 450 are great primers. I really like the CCI450 in a 223 and ball powders. Also, works great in any SR application where you are trying to light alot of powder.
Do test the primers as they make a significant difference in the amount of powder you can use, velocity and consistency. This reduces stringing at LR.
I prefer to use Hodgdon Extreme extruded powders when possible. I find them to burn cleanly and consistently. Have also had great luck with Re25 in my 7RM but a royal pain to get.
Jerry
Do test the primers as they make a significant difference in the amount of powder you can use, velocity and consistency. This reduces stringing at LR.
I prefer to use Hodgdon Extreme extruded powders when possible. I find them to burn cleanly and consistently. Have also had great luck with Re25 in my 7RM but a royal pain to get.
Jerry
