Weighing down a hunting rifle stock.

icehunter121

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So folks,what would be a good way to weigh down the butt on a hunting rifle. I recently picked up a 375 HH and its less then advertised weight. Lightweight 375"s arent much fun. How light you may ask?? 6.8 lbs. on my digital scale. On top of that its going to be rechambered to 375WBY.

The rifle is a Remington 700 XCR11 with plastic stock. I do have a wood classic stock here but its only 6 ounces heavier and want to keep with the original stock as it will be used in all sorts of weather. I am looking at about 1-1.5 pounds in the butt as I have added weight to the forearm and need that weight to balance it out and cut recoil.

So suggestions on how you may have done it would be good,please dont tell me to add weight in a old sock and throw it in there!! I am thinking of lining the inside with tinfoil, spray in foam to make a mold,pull it out,cut it in half,add weight to the center of above said foam and glue it back together and then glue it in the stock.

Thoughts??
 
I believe a muzzle brake would be more beneficial to reduce recoil, than to increase the weight of the rifle.
 
Don't just add lead shot and then spray foam... suspend the shot....give it a short blast, let the foam firm slightly and then sprinkle a portion of the lead shot, then give it another short blast, let it firm and sprinkle in more shot, repeat until you have filled the cavity and suspended the full weight of the shot you intend to use... it will have a better feel and there will be no rattling.
 
The spray foam mentioned above - I have never tried this. So, would not the foam eventually crumble?? Looking at spray foam around doors / windows - seems like a kind of rigid stuff - full of holes - I do know some earlier spray in foam stuff would shrink over time - I am curious if the weight / momentum of the lead shot would start to crush those "holes" and let the shot get loose in there? I do not know, why I am asking... On my own, I probably would have used something like a silicone that turns into a rubber - but, as said, I have never done it and do not know...

I made the mistake on a door jamb of not leaving a way to expand - next morning it had bowed the whole assembly - had to be re-done - so leave a way to expand, if going with foam!!!
 
There are different spray foam with different amounts of expansion, you'll likely want a low amount of expansion. Controlling the expansion is another good reason to do small amount at a time. If doing this I'd tape the end of the rifle in painters tape so any excessive spray foam can be removed easier. Don't know how long it will last, buy it sounds like the cheap way.

As for silicon. My biggest thought is knowing what you existing stock is made from. I recall silicon does t like being placed against other silicon, don't recall why.
 
I believe a muzzle brake would be more beneficial to reduce recoil, than to increase the weight of the rifle.

Sorry,but there is no way I am adding a sissy whistle to any rifle I own. My hearing is worth way more then reduced recoil while out hunting.
 
Don't just add lead shot and then spray foam... suspend the shot....give it a short blast, let the foam firm slightly and then sprinkle a portion of the lead shot, then give it another short blast, let it firm and sprinkle in more shot, repeat until you have filled the cavity and suspended the full weight of the shot you intend to use... it will have a better feel and there will be no rattling.

Kind of what I was thinking of doing. But since we dont know how the chemicals in the foam would react with the plastic make it into a mold first then I would urethane it in which i know wont affect the foam or the plastic. I wont use shot due to the size of it but i do have a wack of 700 grain slugs for my .500 sitting here.
 
Mercury tube would be expensive, but probably pretty neat way to add weight and kill recoil

I seen a couple of those at a gun show, used in trap guns ,I think.
Fellow wanted 10.oo, afterwards, thought I should have bought them , "just in case".
Foam, there is low expansion, for doors , and the other kind that expands more.
I see new stuff that is real low expansion. sun kills foam. You have to leave space for it.
I would be tempted to use a bag, so you could remove it if required. same with silicone, when that stuff sits for a year or so , it is almost impossible to remove out of a hole.
I hurt just thinking about 375HH in a plastic stock, but have never shot one.
 
There are different spray foam with different amounts of expansion, you'll likely want a low amount of expansion. Controlling the expansion is another good reason to do small amount at a time. If doing this I'd tape the end of the rifle in painters tape so any excessive spray foam can be removed easier. Don't know how long it will last, buy it sounds like the cheap way.

As for silicon. My biggest thought is knowing what you existing stock is made from. I recall silicon does t like being placed against other silicon, don't recall why.

Use low expansion foam. You don't want to crack/split the stock.
 
I seen a couple of those at a gun show, used in trap guns ,I think.
Fellow wanted 10.oo, afterwards, thought I should have bought them , "just in case".
Foam, there is low expansion, for doors , and the other kind that expands more.
I see new stuff that is real low expansion. sun kills foam. You have to leave space for it.
I would be tempted to use a bag, so you could remove it if required. same with silicone, when that stuff sits for a year or so , it is almost impossible to remove out of a hole.
I hurt just thinking about 375HH in a plastic stock, but have never shot one.

I did this in a 870 stock used a 3/4" brass rod with a 5/16" NF hole in the center of the rear, smeared some cheap silicone sealer on it slid it into the Remington hole. Never moved while I had it. I venture it will be there until the buttstock needs to come off. That's where the 5/16NF hole comes in. Your basic slide hammer will take that out easy peasy. The 870 was much easier handling after.
 
In the past, a hole was drilled of the appropriate diameter, a steel/aluminum tube filled with lead, and said hole threaded for a plug. No movement, no foam, and easily removable if no longer desired. A proper job...by a "real" gunsmith even.

R.
 
I would pour in epoxy and add the smallest lead shot you can obtain... when the shot sinks and the epoxy rises add more shot, continue until you have your weight and top it off with epoxy. Weigh the correct amount of shot before you start, hold the stock tip down in a vise. Leave it in that position until it cures. This will not churn into lead dust with repeated recoil as some methods do. You can top this off with spray foam if you wish.
 
The spray foam mentioned above - I have never tried this. So, would not the foam eventually crumble?? Looking at spray foam around doors / windows - seems like a kind of rigid stuff - full of holes - I do know some earlier spray in foam stuff would shrink over time - I am curious if the weight / momentum of the lead shot would start to crush those "holes" and let the shot get loose in there? I do not know, why I am asking... On my own, I probably would have used something like a silicone that turns into a rubber - but, as said, I have never done it and do not know...

I made the mistake on a door jamb of not leaving a way to expand - next morning it had bowed the whole assembly - had to be re-done - so leave a way to expand, if going with foam!!!

use a marine grade closed cell.foam.. look up west marine or total boat for products
 
Kind of what I was thinking of doing. But since we dont know how the chemicals in the foam would react with the plastic make it into a mold first then I would urethane it in which i know wont affect the foam or the plastic. I wont use shot due to the size of it but i do have a wack of 700 grain slugs for my .500 sitting here.

The chemicals in low expansion foam will.not react with the stock plastic... I have done this many times... none of them have broken down after years of use.
 
My shoulders are wore out very recoil sensitive. Pull recoil pad Put a bit of cotton in stock to protect stock screw head or threads if it’s a nut fill with lead shot then top off cotton again replace recoil pad it really does help
 
I jammed 1 lb of the electrical duct cement blocks into the rear of my Tikka stock. Worked good for a quick, cheap and quiet solution and not to mention easily removable. I put it in a ziploc freezer bag first.
 

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